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Trying to fix A/C

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Old Aug 4, 2021 | 06:02 PM
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Default Trying to fix A/C

So this isn't LS related (it's actually for my wife's 2004 Accord) but I figured A/C systems are generally the same no matter the car so...

My wife's A/C hasn't worked in her car since we got it (about 5 years ago). After the heatwave the NW got a month ago I decided I should try and get it at least somewhat working so she isn't melting. Went to Oreilly's and bought a recharge kit and started following instructions.

With the engine on and A/C set to maximum, the compressor isn't engaging. I've verified all relays are working and turning on (even tried shorting them just to be sure), so at this point I can only assume the pressure switch inside the compressor is what's causing it to stay off. What's weird though is that when I hooked up the recharge kit the pressure gauge pegged at maximum. I thought this odd considering the system hasn't run in over 5 years, but if the pressure is too high it could explain why the system isn't kicking on. What kind of fix is there for this? Or am I going to have to take it to a shop? Thanks guys.
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Old Aug 4, 2021 | 06:58 PM
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Correct if its over charged it will not cycle properly and it's most likely just full of air. You could let the air out of the system first before trying to charge it but more so than that what you need to do is pull a vacuum on the system first to see if it holds or not.
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Old Aug 4, 2021 | 07:08 PM
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You can use the auto parts store cans to charge most of these R134 cars and get it right.,,, gauges required.. 1 OZ too much AC can't turn, too little won't cool..

I have a harbor freight set that works fine, I built an adapter to attach the disposable cans from the auto part store to it..

If its lost charge completely ,, you need to replace at least the dryer.. Pump it down with a vacuum pump ,, let it pump after it bases out for about an hour..

The vacuum pump will show if you have any serious leaks usually.. When you turn it off the gauge should stay where it is for quite a while.

If you have the ability,,, purge with nitrogen after the pump down then re-pump then charge.

They sell cans of R134 with a stop leek and a leak indicator you'll see purple where any leaks are..
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Old Aug 5, 2021 | 12:56 AM
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So after doing some more research and testing... I think it's the compressor or clutch that's bad. I verified it's getting 12v and ground at the connector at the compressor. The fan was a blown fuse that I missed, and that kicks on when I hit the AC button in the dash. Apparently the coils on honda compressors are kinda known for going bad, so that's where I'm going to start.

Of course, it means evacuating and recharging the system anyway, so I'll probably go over all of it and replace other parts while i'm in it.
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Old Aug 5, 2021 | 09:17 AM
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Originally Posted by HappySalesman
Of course, it means evacuating and recharging the system anyway, so I'll probably go over all of it and replace other parts while i'm in it.
You should be able to change the clutch and coil with the compressor still attached. I just did it on my Firebird. Easy. There are lots of videos on youtube that will show you how to do it. No need to evacuate the system.
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Old Aug 5, 2021 | 10:43 AM
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Yes the Honda clutch is replaceable, just did it last summer on daughters car.. took about 30 minutes..
If it were engaging but slipping there is a shim in the clutch pack you can remove and get it working temporarily..

But if there is insufficient pressure or too much it will not start the compressor, the compressor and fan have dedicated AC relays..
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Old Aug 5, 2021 | 12:11 PM
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Both the compressor and fan relays are turning on. Verified with a multimeter and feeling the relays 'click' when turning the AC on in the dash.

At this point I dont think there is too much pressure, I think since the compressor isn't turning on the pressure in the system is just equalizing, which is why the shitty gauge on the recharge kit just pegged at maximum. Going to start with the coil/clutch and go from there.

Thanks everyone!
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