01CamaroSSTx

iTrader: (3)

01CamaroSSTx

iTrader: (3)

Thought it might be the alternator so I took it over to Advance Auto to get it tested and it was deemed bad. Couldn't get another replacement from them and ended up at O'Riley's for one of there's and had it bench tested before purchase and after install the problem remains. I'm thinking it's not the alternator at all now and I still have the AC Delco I replaced for the Murray. Hope someone who reads this can steer me in the right direction. Sometimes when driving the voltgage gauge will show a drop into the red zone then back up to 13-14 and it does this periodically while ruinning which tells me it's something powering on and off. Could the fans and other items be powering up at the same time causing the issue? The A/C doesn't have to be running to get this below voltage reading either.

99 Black Bird T/A

iTrader: (4)

Could it be a ground issue? Maybe loose?

Could the belt slipping or bad belt tensioner cause that sort of dip?

FWIW - When my 99T/A's dash gauge showed a voltage drop like that the dash lights and headlights would immediately dim. The alternator tested bad, the voltage regulator was failing.

01CamaroSSTx

iTrader: (3)

Yes I'm thinking it wouldn't hurt to crawl under there to clean and retighten the grounds. The lights dim out when this happens also and I've recently replaced the belt tensioner due to it making an awful noise.

wssix99

iTrader: (5)

Two thoughts:
- You wouldn't be the first member here to get a dud alternator from a local parts store. (You wouldn't be the 500th, either!) Many of us have had really bad experiences with parts store alternators, particularly remans.
- You could have a loose or broken exciter wire.

I would check the exciter wire first, then double check the belt routing against the sticker in the engine compartment. (Free, easy stuff.) Then I would take the "new" alternator to get tested before going further.

01CamaroSSTx

iTrader: (3)

Removed the alternator today to get it tested and it passed after mulitiple tests ran so I'm ruling that out. Going to pull and clean all the grounds tomorrow and get it put back together so I can run a test on the exciter wire. Do I need to connect it to the alternator and splice a wire into the exciter wire in order to test for 5v or can I just test the pin in the connector plug? From a visual inspection I don't see anything wrong with the wire or the plug connector ans I'm starting to wonder if it has something to do with the power wire on the Ractronix hot wire kit. Pulled the 20amp fuse and it looks to me like it's seeing too much heat which could be either from a poor connection or too small of a wire for the Walbro 450 pump.

01CamaroSSTx

iTrader: (3)

Cleaned all the grounds except for the one at the back of the motor on the drivers side and I sure hope that's not the problem. The voltage drop between the fuel pump and battery on the power and ground sides were within 0.5v so that's good. I really don't like the 12g power wire on the Racetronix hotwire kit and will be replacing it with 10g wire. Started it up in hopes of the problem being solved but nope. I'm starting to think it's the lead from the alternator to the battery so I'm going to make another one tomorrow and see if that fixes it. If that's not it I'll be going with a truck alternator or a higher amperage one designed for the car.

wssix99

iTrader: (5)

Surging power draws could be causing the problem you are seeing. So, if there are short spikes in power usage that aren't blowing your fuse, that could cause what you are seeing.

01CamaroSSTx

iTrader: (3)

Thanks for the reply back.

I ran a new lead from the battery to the alternator to see if that cable was my issue and I'm still having voltage drops below 12V so that rules out the factory lead being bad. The battery is an Optima red top and I'm getting 12.5V there and when running 14V. From what I've read here on the forum going to larger amperage alternator fixed their issue so that looks like my next move along with a Optima yellow top battery.

jetech

Does this happen without head lights and ac being on?

01CamaroSSTx

iTrader: (3)

Yes it does.

wssix99

iTrader: (5)

If you are adding items to the car that draw more power than stock, you might need a larger alternator. Otherwise, the stock should do the job.

01CamaroSSTx

iTrader: (3)

Only thing different is the Walbro 450 in thetank and everything was doing fine with the AC Delco 102 amp alternator until this started. I installed the Optima yellow top that I purchased for the 99 today to see if that was going to fix it but nope.

jetech

Does it do it at all rpm levels or just low rpm? Only at idle?

01CamaroSSTx

iTrader: (3)

Mostly at idle and when you raise RPM's it jumps back up to 14v and I'm still chasing down possible issues. I had a Viper alarm system installed many years ago that had left me stranded with a no start back in 2015 when the LSX was installed. I was able to bypass a relay the alarm system was using to control the starting of the vehicle and I'm now finding out that the guy who did the install has gone in and tapped into several different wires under the steering column as well as the wiring for my headlight switch.

What a mess this has turned out to be and I'm done with taking my car to anyone for anything. There's way too many half assers out there and now I find myself repairing wires and removing everything he did. Finshed that up today and the problem still remains... Part of me thinks it's just a POS alternator even though it passses with flying colors at three different part stores and I'm leary of just throwing on a Powermaster 150amp when the problem could be something other than the alternator. I found a Youtube clip about installing a 470 ohm 0.5v resistor on an exciter wire plug assembly and connecting it to a keyed 12v power source to see if that solves it but haven't tried that yet.

sjsingle1

iTrader: (1)

time for a truck alt...jus sayin

wssix99

iTrader: (5)

You could have a bad belt tensioner. Is it an old piece?

01CamaroSSTx

iTrader: (3)

I've replaced the belt, the tensioner and verified that the belt routing is correct and I'm about ready to throw in a PowerMaster and see what happens.

RPM WS6

iTrader: (3)

Powermaster makes a quality product. I would trust that over any chain parts store alternator rebuild, truck version or not.

With that said though, I'm also not entirely sure that the alternator is the problem since more than one seem to be showing the same sort of odd, intermittent behavior. You mentioned this earlier:

Has that possibility been resolved? The post after this one wasn't exactly clear on whether or not you upgraded the wiring on this.

01CamaroSSTx

iTrader: (3)

I haven't and that may very well be my problem. I will look into it and report back.