When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I’ve been having a slight fluctuating idle and I think it’s due to a vac leak at the pcv boot because it was oily at the end of the hose near the base of the pcv valve. The section of hose that goes from the valve to the TB has rotten so I replaced it with a length of hose and tightened it down with a hose clamp. Tonite I was trying to see if I could get a better seal where the body of the valve goes into the hose and the stupid ground strap deal tore the PCV boot. I did a search and it looks like people have made pcv housings out of a brass fitting but most of the pics are gone because the threads are so old. Does anyone have the skinny on how to fashion up a PCV boot? Do y’all know what size brass fitting to use? There’s a replacement PCV hose on Amazon for $40 but replacing the entire hose looks pretty terrible. It wraps all the way around the back from one side to the other. That cowl is awful. I think it has a good seal on the TB side but the hose isn’t flared out where it meets the TB like the oem. I don’t think the one on Amazon is either though.
There's always doing the LS6 valley cover/PCV conversion (search) but for those that don't want to do that I've heard of people talking about trying one of these 2 boots from dorman but nobody ever followed up with results. PCV Elbow | 46036 | PCV Tube Assembly | Dorman Products Engine Crankcase Breather Hose | 46038 | Emissions Connector | Dorman Products
These look really similar to the boot where it necks down like our factory piece, but no confirmation. Of course, it has no provision for the ground strap though. I think '98s have the PCV in a different spot and don't have to deal with the ground strap or you can try to run without it (but my thinking is that it's there for a reason, either to warm up the PCV faster to keep the check ball from sticking or to ground against possible static).
You could buy the whole hose assembly and just replace this boot piece as it does pull off of the hard plastic line that it is attached to. Another common point of failure with the OEM hose assembly is in back of the intake where it has a Y-connector. The OEM piece from the factory used rubber that tends to rot away like the PCV boot, but the new design (OEM and aftermarket) uses a plastic Y-connector to prevent this.
I've also heard of people trying to clean the broken hose really well and cover any rips/holes with RTV but not sure that would stand the test of time with an oily hose.
If you try any of this, please report back for us!
There's always doing the LS6 valley cover/PCV conversion (search) but for those that don't want to do that I've heard of people talking about trying one of these 2 boots from dorman but nobody ever followed up with results. PCV Elbow | 46036 | PCV Tube Assembly | Dorman Products Engine Crankcase Breather Hose | 46038 | Emissions Connector | Dorman Products
These look really similar to the boot where it necks down like our factory piece, but no confirmation. Of course, it has no provision for the ground strap though. I think '98s have the PCV in a different spot and don't have to deal with the ground strap or you can try to run without it (but my thinking is that it's there for a reason, either to warm up the PCV faster to keep the check ball from sticking or to ground against possible static).
You could buy the whole hose assembly and just replace this boot piece as it does pull off of the hard plastic line that it is attached to. Another common point of failure with the OEM hose assembly is in back of the intake where it has a Y-connector. The OEM piece from the factory used rubber that tends to rot away like the PCV boot, but the new design (OEM and aftermarket) uses a plastic Y-connector to prevent this.
I've also heard of people trying to clean the broken hose really well and cover any rips/holes with RTV but not sure that would stand the test of time with an oily hose.
If you try any of this, please report back for us!
The boot is attached via a “male” line? So theoretically slide the small end of the Dorman boot over the hard plastic line, clamp it down and there’s your boot? Or will you need a male piece to connect the Dorman boot to the hose?
I’ll have to get another length of hose to connect the valve to the TB because I don’t think the Dorman boots are long enough. The straight one is 2.45”. I couldn’t find the specs on the one with the bend but if I was going to try one I think it be that one. I read on another forum where a guy said to use an LS1 spark plug boot for a pcv valve housing but I can’t get a picture in my head on how to connect the little end. I don’t think I’m going to use the ground strap/heater element thing-a-ma jig. There are plenty of cars without one. I’m gonna roll the dice and see what happens.
What about the hose that goes to the nipple on the TB? Does the hose have to be in that recessed area? I’m thinking no, because if I were to have a leak the size of that recessed area I think it’d be running a lot worse.
I guess I’m gonna order the Dorman with the bend in it and see where it takes us. If it doesn’t work I guess I’ll run to the hardware store. I wish I didn’t have to take the little hose off the TB though. It was pretty tough getting it on there. Male end?
I think '98s have the PCV in a different spot and don't have to deal with the ground strap or you can try to run without it (but my thinking is that it's there for a reason, either to warm up the PCV faster to keep the check ball from sticking or to ground against possible static).
The "ground strap" is, in fact, a heat sink - and the '98s also have this but it's a different design. On a '98, the actual valve is located further back in the PCV line, in a boot that's about midway along the intake, and the heat sink consists of a metal clip that wraps around the boot (much like the later version) and then attaches to part of the valve cover. It's a very short clip, mostly hidden, and there is no "ground strap" appearing wire like the later models.
FWIW, I deleted the heat sink on my '00 car when I converted to a vertical PCV setup. I never saw any ill side-effects from doing this, but I also never drove that car in cold conditions.
Originally Posted by Y2K_Frenzy
What about the hose that goes to the nipple on the TB? Does the hose have to be in that recessed area? I’m thinking no, because if I were to have a leak the size of that recessed area I think it’d be running a lot worse.
I'm a bit confused by this part of your post. Nothing should be connecting directly to the throttle body (TB), only to a nipple on the intake just behind the throttle body.
And what do you mean by "recessed area"? Nothing is recessed in relation to that nipple, it's a male end that receives a rubber elbow (or can be changed to a piece of hose like you have shown above, which is attached perfectly fine from what I can see).
The "ground strap" is, in fact, a heat sink - and the '98s also have this but it's a different design. On a '98, the actual valve is located further back in the PCV line, in a boot that's about midway along the intake, and the heat sink consists of a metal clip that wraps around the boot (much like the later version) and then attaches to part of the valve cover. It's a very short clip, mostly hidden, and there is no "ground strap" appearing wire like the later models.
FWIW, I deleted the heat sink on my '00 car when I converted to a vertical PCV setup. I never saw any ill side-effects from doing this, but I also never drove that car in cold conditions.
I'm a bit confused by this part of your post. Nothing should be connecting directly to the throttle body (TB), only to a nipple on the intake just behind the throttle body.
And what do you mean by "recessed area"? Nothing is recessed in relation to that nipple, it's a male end that receives a rubber elbow (or can be changed to a piece of hose like you have shown above, which is attached perfectly fine from what I can see).
The end of the original little hose that connects to the the nipple behind the TB is flared out and then necks back down where it slips slips the nipple. I was wondering if air could be leaking past without the flare. There’s a gap
The end of the original little hose that connects to the the nipple behind the TB is flared out and then necks back down where it slips slips the nipple. I was wondering if air could be leaking past without the flare.
There’s a gap
I'm still not quite sure that I understand what you're saying. There isn't any gap in the picture you have posted above (where the hose is fitted onto the nipple). The embossment (it's really more of a "collar" I guess) that the hose pushes up against (when slid fully onto the nipple) is molded into the intake, there is no recess or gap there - it's solid. In fact, the '98s don't even use a rubber elbow piece like what your 2000 came with stock, ours is just a hose pushed onto that nipple just like how you have it on yours currently.
Here is a picture of my 1998 setup; as you can see, it's just a hose pushed onto the nipple (like yours is currently). This is the assembly line original hose for mine, the only thing I did was to add that clamp (did that back in like ~2005, due to a slight oily film that used to weep out around the hose). Originally there wasn't even a clamp but, otherwise, this is exactly how it came from the factory on the '98 cars:
I'm still not quite sure that I understand what you're saying. There isn't any gap in the picture you have posted above (where the hose is fitted onto the nipple). The embossment (it's really more of a "collar" I guess) that the hose pushes up against (when slid fully onto the nipple) is molded into the intake, there is no recess or gap there - it's solid. In fact, the '98s don't even use a rubber elbow piece like what your 2000 came with stock, ours is just a hose pushed onto that nipple just like how you have it on yours currently.
Here is a picture of my 1998 setup; as you can see, it's just a hose pushed onto the nipple (like yours is currently). This is the assembly line original hose for mine, the only thing I did was to add that clamp (did that back in like ~2005, due to a slight oily film that used to weep out around the hose). Originally there wasn't even a clamp but, otherwise, this is exactly how it came from the factory on the '98 cars:
Thanks. I didn’t think so but I wasn’t 100% sure that the “collar” around the nipple was just that, and not an open hole that the flared “grommet” looking end of the hose was supposed to fill.
The boot came and I got it on. The valve fits pretty snug, I had to use pliers to pull it out after a test fit. But there’s the tiniest of air around the sides. I think I’m going to wrap it a few times with rubberized self-adhesive non sticky tape, but I didn’t have any on hand. For now I cinched it down with a zip tie. I didn’t have a hose clamp big enough on hand either. The same story goes for other end of the boot. It fits fairly snug onto the plastic line, but probably not as snug as you’d want it. I have it cinched with a zip tie for now as well but I’m going to use the rubber tape on it as well when I get some.
I didn’t have pull the line off of the intake. Awhile back I replaced that line with 3/8” hose. I can’t remember if I cut it to the same length as stock but I think I did, or close to it. At any rate I was able to reuse that line with the Dorman boot. I haven’t started it yet but I’m going to try and drive it tomorrow. So far though I think the Dorman boot is a winner. Gap where the male enters the boot
The Dorman boot seems to work. I wrapped where the hoses couple together and were the valve with rubberized tape for good measure. I drove it today and I don’t feel any oily residue anywhere. So either it has a good seal or the oil hasn’t leaked past the tape yet. 😂
The new boot didn’t solve the slight idle fluctuation when warm though. The idle fluctuates barely enough to move the tach needle. It’s more of a “slightly rough” idle than an idle surge I think. I ought to pull a spark plug maybe to see how it looks. Anyway, the Dorman PCV boot works.
thanks for the update and test of the dorman boot. Sorry it didn't solve your idle issue. Seems like you have it sealed up pretty good at the valve. You could still have a leak at the Y-connector at the rear of the intake manifold if that is the original PCV hose. Only way to tell for sure would be a smoke tester if you don't remove the hose for visual inspection (or borescope if you have access to one to poke the camera back there to see). If you have to fix that and want to stay DIY, there are some videos on youtube for repairing it with a plastic Y-fitting instead of replacing the entire hose assembly with the updated style.
The smoke tester mentioned above is a good idea, if you have access to that equipment. But another option for diagnosing the idle weirdness would be a scanner that shows fuel trim data. If fuel trims aren't elevated then it's likely not a vacuum leak causing the idle oddness (hence the PCV is probably not the source in that case).
A comprehensive scanner would really be the best tool to start working on the idle issue. Changing plugs wouldn't hurt, but with the relatively low mileage of that engine I don't think you'll see a ton of improvement (unless it was running really poorly at some point, and heavily fouled the plugs).
Might even be dirty injectors from fuel allowed to get old when the car was sitting prior to your ownership. Have you tried a cleaning product like Red Line SI-1 or Techron? If it's just minor fouling, those in-tank products will often do the trick. Otherwise, machine or bench cleaning might be needed.
The smoke tester mentioned above is a good idea, if you have access to that equipment. But another option for diagnosing the idle weirdness would be a scanner that shows fuel trim data. If fuel trims aren't elevated then it's likely not a vacuum leak causing the idle oddness (hence the PCV is probably not the source in that case).
A comprehensive scanner would really be the best tool to start working on the idle issue. Changing plugs wouldn't hurt, but with the relatively low mileage of that engine I don't think you'll see a ton of improvement (unless it was running really poorly at some point, and heavily fouled the plugs).
Might even be dirty injectors from fuel allowed to get old when the car was sitting prior to your ownership. Have you tried a cleaning product like Red Line SI-1 or Techron? If it's just minor fouling, those in-tank products will often do the trick. Otherwise, machine or bench cleaning might be needed.
What’s the budget friendliest way to go as far as a scanner? The blue tooth adapter & phone app or an actual scanner? I was looking at smoke machines and I found one on Amazon for $125. But maybe a scanner would be a better place to start.
I replaced the front O2’s today primarily just to have something to tinker with but with slight hopes in some sort of improvement. Then I took it on 166 mile round trip run. It ran well but I didn’t really get to sit and idle long enough to tell if was better or not. The rough & surging idle isn’t anything major. If you weren’t “in tune” with the car you wouldn’t notice it. It’s the slightest of “roughness” and it will surge but barely enough to register on the needle. I heard a whistling noise coming from the a/c vents (I think) tonight. A vac leak in the HVAC would be hard to get to wouldn’t it?
I’ve used Techron on several occasions and I’ve poured Seafoam through the brake booster line as well. I think some Seafoam residue was on the drivers side O2 sensor.
If my math is correct I think I got somewhere around 19.7 mpg on that 166 mile round trip this evening. I didn’t use the a/c vents & heat. Speeds were between 65-90, but avg was prob 70 or so. There was quite a bit if traffic and it was hilly in spots so I didn’t get to use cruise control very much. Overall it ran well, but I think it should idle smoother than it does. It’s like it has a little hiccup now and again. Drivers side
What’s the budget friendliest way to go as far as a scanner? The blue tooth adapter & phone app or an actual scanner? I was looking at smoke machines and I found one on Amazon for $125. But maybe a scanner would be a better place to start.
Scanner is always a good investment if you plan to diagnose various issues yourself, etc. Smoke machine is something that's nice to be able to borrow, but probably not an item you'll use a ton if you're just working on your own car.
I'm not up-to-date on the best bang-for-the-buck scanners, I'm still using an ancient AutoTap program on my dinosaur laptop for scanning my older GM cars (I think it won't read newer than about a 2004). I do have a decent handheld that I use for mine an my wife's daily drivers (2010 & 2012), but it's just a scanner with no option to tune/write. I'm not sure I would recommend it though, as I think it was too expensive for what it does (plus it's missing key data, like IAC counts). You might want to think about whether or not you want a tuning suite so you can also make changes in addition to just reading data. Just something to think about before investing in new equipment.
Originally Posted by Y2K_Frenzy
I replaced the front O2’s today primarily just to have something to tinker with but with slight hopes in some sort of improvement. Then I took it on 166 mile round trip run. It ran well but I didn’t really get to sit and idle long enough to tell if was better or not. The rough & surging idle isn’t anything major. If you weren’t “in tune” with the car you wouldn’t notice it. It’s the slightest of “roughness” and it will surge but barely enough to register on the needle. I heard a whistling noise coming from the a/c vents (I think) tonight. A vac leak in the HVAC would be hard to get to wouldn’t it?
I’ve used Techron on several occasions and I’ve poured Seafoam through the brake booster line as well. I think some Seafoam residue was on the drivers side O2 sensor.
If my math is correct I think I got somewhere around 19.7 mpg on that 166 mile round trip this evening. I didn’t use the a/c vents & heat. Speeds were between 65-90, but avg was prob 70 or so. There was quite a bit if traffic and it was hilly in spots so I didn’t get to use cruise control very much. Overall it ran well, but I think it should idle smoother than it does. It’s like it has a little hiccup now and again.
If Seafoam and Techron haven't cleaned up the idle then it's either not the injectors or they are bad enough to need a bench/machine cleaning. But it doesn't sound like the issue is that serious, so I wouldn't start with that.
You could also just try disconnecting the PCV system and seeing if the idle weirdness clears up. If so, then some part of the system is still leaking.
Scanner is always a good investment if you plan to diagnose various issues yourself, etc. Smoke machine is something that's nice to be able to borrow, but probably not an item you'll use a ton if you're just working on your own car.
I'm not up-to-date on the best bang-for-the-buck scanners, I'm still using an ancient AutoTap program on my dinosaur laptop for scanning my older GM cars (I think it won't read newer than about a 2004). I do have a decent handheld that I use for mine an my wife's daily drivers (2010 & 2012), but it's just a scanner with no option to tune/write. I'm not sure I would recommend it though, as I think it was too expensive for what it does (plus it's missing key data, like IAC counts). You might want to think about whether or not you want a tuning suite so you can also make changes in addition to just reading data. Just something to think about before investing in new equipment.
If Seafoam and Techron haven't cleaned up the idle then it's either not the injectors or they are bad enough to need a bench/machine cleaning. But it doesn't sound like the issue is that serious, so I wouldn't start with that.
You could also just try disconnecting the PCV system and seeing if the idle weirdness clears up. If so, then some part of the system is still leaking.
The hard lines that run on top of the brake booster look suspect. When I tie the motor off I hear a woosh sound that I think it’s coming from that general area. I need to to have someone turn the motor off while I’m standing by it with the hood open. The vacuum lines on this thing are so hard to get to and any could be bad. I think I finally got my hand on the pcv line in the back of the intake, but I couldn’t tell if it was good or bad, couldn’t see it.. That’s why I’m thinking smoke machine maybe. Scanner would be better over all, but I’d still have a hard time finding (& accessing) the leak even if I was 100% sure I had one. I think I do though. I just went and beat on it a little and there weren’t any misfires. So I don’t think it’s fuel or spark really. Plus I have the woosh sound when the engine is turned off.
There's a 3-way rubber hose that connects the three PCV lines at the back on the passenger side. If you disconnect the lines from the valve cover and intake manifold it's easier to get to but I found that I had a whole in it once I got it removed. Smoke test will tell the tale.
There's a 3-way rubber hose that connects the three PCV lines at the back on the passenger side. If you disconnect the lines from the valve cover and intake manifold it's easier to get to but I found that I had a whole in it once I got it removed. Smoke test will tell the tale.
6 Common C5 Corvette Failures and What's Involved In Repairing Them
Slideshow: From wobbling harmonic balancers to failed EBCMs, these are the issues that define long-term C5 ownership and what repairs typically involve.
Retro Modern Bandit Pontiac Trans AM Comes With Burt Reynolds' Autograph
Slideshow: A modern Camaro transformed into a retro icon, this limited-run "Bandit" build blends nostalgia with brute force in a way few revivals manage.
Top 10 Greatest Cadillac V Series Performance Models Ever, Ranked
Slideshow: Cadillac didn't just crash the high-performance luxury vehicle party, it showed up loud, supercharged, and occasionally a little unhinged...
Coachbuilt N2A Anteros Is an LS2-Powered C6 Corvette In Italian Clothes
Slideshow: A one-off sports car that looks like a vintage Italian exotic-but hides a C6 Corvette underneath-just sold for the price of a new mid-engine Corvette.
Home made LS1 PCV Boot? 
