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The next thing to check would be the four regulator rivets. Very often, the regulator is removed to change the window motor and through drilling these out incorrectly or by using incorrect replacement rivets or nuts/bolts. This elongates the holes in the composite door and can create a wobble. If you watch those 4 rivets while you move the window, you can see if they are secure.
The rivets seem fine. It almost seems like the window moved when welding that roller stud. I’m attaching a picture. You can see it needs to shift to the lift. Is this even possible?
Yes, that can be adjusted. Now, if the window is "janky," then something is still broken.
If you roll the driver side and passenger side window down half-way and tug on them, do they move differently? Is one looser than the other? If so, you should figure out why first.
Second, you can adjust the window. Here is the instructions. It is critical to follow them precisely and in order. If one little thing is off in the procedure, then things will get all messed up. http://shbox.com/1/adj_window.html
I am guessing those are probably some special type rivets?
Yea, they are special rivets and you'll need an oversize rivet gun. This is one of those parts that I would recommend going to a GM dealer for. (They are not regular pop rivets.)
With the tool investment, it might also be easier to take the panel off and just have a glass shop do the rivet replacement. (They will have the tools and rivets.)
I went to the salvage yard today and they had a 2000 Camaro that I was able to get all the little parts needed that were destroyed. Those plastic isolators that attach the glass to the regulator arm are impossible to find.
I got the special peel type rivets at NAPA.
Part # BK-665-2334 for anyone reading this in the future that might need them.
Bought a big rivet tool at HF for $25 bucks. Now I can put everything back together with rivets like its supposed to be.
I can't wait to de-jank this door finally. **** is embarrassing.
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