Starting issues after car is warmed up
Have a 2001 Trans Am that has been having this issue on and off for a few years now, I don't drive it daily. Basically I can let the car sit for a month (on a battery tender of course) and it will fire up no issues. I can take it for a drive, turn it off, go into the store, and turn it back on it no issues either. When the car is warm however if I turn it off and then try to start it up again just a few minutes later, it will crank and crank but not start. I can put it on a jump starter and it makes no difference either. Have even replaced with a brand new battery. The fuel pump is running, pressure on the rail is normal, I've replaced the starter relay, replaced the fuel filter, and the issue persists. If I wait 10 or so minutes, it'll just start right up again. Any clues on what could be causing this? I've searched the forums extensively.
TECH Resident




Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 849
Likes: 216
From: Montgomery (Lake Conroe,) TX north of Houston
My 2002 WS6 started doing this earlier this summer (its still summer in Houston!) I only drive the car about once a week and today was a driving day. I parked the car at the dentist office and 1 1/2 hrs later, I tried to start the car. I cranked and cranked for several seconds but the engine wouldn't start. I turned the key to the off position, waited one or two seconds and tried again. The engine started right up and I drove to the voting place to vote. Voted, came out and the car started right up. Went to the Chinese buffet. An hour later, the car started right up.
I haven't done any trouble shooting but maybe bigsticksupra's post above is what will fix my car. Rockauto carries Delphi and genuine GM fuel pump modules.
I haven't done any trouble shooting but maybe bigsticksupra's post above is what will fix my car. Rockauto carries Delphi and genuine GM fuel pump modules.
My 2002 WS6 started doing this earlier this summer (its still summer in Houston!) I only drive the car about once a week and today was a driving day. I parked the car at the dentist office and 1 1/2 hrs later, I tried to start the car. I cranked and cranked for several seconds but the engine wouldn't start. I turned the key to the off position, waited one or two seconds and tried again. The engine started right up and I drove to the voting place to vote. Voted, came out and the car started right up. Went to the Chinese buffet. An hour later, the car started right up.
I haven't done any trouble shooting but maybe bigsticksupra's post above is what will fix my car. Rockauto carries Delphi and genuine GM fuel pump modules.
I haven't done any trouble shooting but maybe bigsticksupra's post above is what will fix my car. Rockauto carries Delphi and genuine GM fuel pump modules.
Among all this, I tried to do some relay checks to troubleshoot. I removed the ignition relay to see if it would replicate the issue in the event the relay was failing when hot, and the car actually started without an ignition relay. Is it supposed to do that? Next I put the ignition relay and removed the starter relay, and again it started. I did not try starting with both of these removed. Is that normal behavior or is something up?
edit: my relay box covers are likely swapped and thus I’m troubleshooting the wrong relay entirely (fan instead of ignition).
edit: my relay box covers are likely swapped and thus I’m troubleshooting the wrong relay entirely (fan instead of ignition).
Last edited by cascadesys; Oct 30, 2024 at 10:11 PM.
No damn way the car started with the Starter Relay removed because that is what completes the circuit to the Starter.
My vote is a Crank Sensor on the way out and wondering why I'm the first one to think of it.
My vote is a Crank Sensor on the way out and wondering why I'm the first one to think of it.
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I've fixed many this way, bad Crank Sensor gets hot and the circuit inside it breaks connection.
If the engine is turning over with the Starter then everything electronic is good with that circuit so there's no need to start replacing Relays. Little intuitive thought goes a long ways.
PCM is not sending the fire signal to the Coils. Crank Sensor is what initiates that.
If the engine is turning over with the Starter then everything electronic is good with that circuit so there's no need to start replacing Relays. Little intuitive thought goes a long ways.
PCM is not sending the fire signal to the Coils. Crank Sensor is what initiates that.
TECH Resident




Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 849
Likes: 216
From: Montgomery (Lake Conroe,) TX north of Houston
I've fixed many this way, bad Crank Sensor gets hot and the circuit inside it breaks connection.
If the engine is turning over with the Starter then everything electronic is good with that circuit so there's no need to start replacing Relays. Little intuitive thought goes a long ways.
PCM is not sending the fire signal to the Coils. Crank Sensor is what initiates that.
If the engine is turning over with the Starter then everything electronic is good with that circuit so there's no need to start replacing Relays. Little intuitive thought goes a long ways.
PCM is not sending the fire signal to the Coils. Crank Sensor is what initiates that.
This makes perfect sense.
Starting with the cheapest and simplest option since I realized my relay labels were mixed. I swapped my relay box covers back to the correct location and went to my actual ignition relay, noticing that it is the original relay from 2001. The car starts 100% of the time when the car is cold, so I removed this relay and got the same scenario I get sometimes when the car is hot: cranks and cranks but won't start, so removing the relay seemed to recreate this scenario accurately. I put a new relay in and it immediately started. I will drive the car a bit and see if this fixes it.





