Is my AC sys. Charged? 05 chevy express 3500

My Air conditioner worked fine last summer however this summer not cold or even cool.

I attempted to recharge the sys. However it appears to allready be fully charged.



What I did was connect the freeon adjust the dial to ambient temp. then crank up engine w/ AC on max blower on max never pulled the trigger releasing the freeon into sys. Turned engine off when I observed the red extend into the red section of dail.

Please advice an thanks


video here
https://rumble.com/v6u9tu3-is-my-ac-charged.html

 

What are your line pressures? Low side? High side? Is the compressor clutch engaging? Check the wiring to the low pressure and high pressure safety switches.

Rick

 

I have this can of freeon w/ the gauge builtin why is the needle going from white to way over to red w/out even pulling the trigger to flow the freeon?
did you watch the video?

https://rumble.com/v6u9tu3-is-my-ac-charged.html

I do have a old set of household AC gauges

I got from the junk yard a few years ago didn't pay much attension to the quick connectors not being there at the time I thought car an house were the same.

can I buy just the quick connects for low an high and a can piecer in order to use the household gauges or should I just buy a cheap set of gauges?

t believe the compressors clugh is engauging but haven't looked at it will crawl under vehical an observe.will also check for loose wires an report back.
thanks

 

You can see in the video when the compressor kicks on it sucks down to 10PSi or less and then kicks off... you need to add freon...

 

thats what I was thinking bc I do hear (just didn't crawl under vehical to observe clutch) clutch cycle.
I can confirm the AC drive belt is there, initially I thought it broke off.

I got scared when I observed the needle pegging over way into the red. I certainly don't want this can exploding in my face.
so when I pull the freeon cans trigger releaseing the freeon will the needle go into the white well below the green an just fill till needle gets into middle of green zone.
so I can get by w/out buying the gauge set an just recharge w/ the can an builtin gauge?

thanks for advise

 

I gauge set is always best, BUT for just recharging your system with freon cans from walmart your fine with just the low side gauge you have working.
Do exactly what you did in the video, have the gauge hooked up, engine running, AC on and just pull the trigger and add freon, the compressor will kick on and the pressure will drop on gauge you have hooked up (low side) you will probably need at least 1 full 12oz can if thats what your using, maybe more...
Just keep adding freon until the needle is close to whatever you outside temp is, so if its 75 deg out it should be close to 40psi, if its 80deg outside it should be close to 45PSI.... ect ect...

it doesn't have to be exact just get it close

 

ok on pulling the trigger I was concerned of over charging an the thing exploding in my face.

this cans gauge has a ambient temp. dail so I set this dail to what ambient temp,is.

when I back into driveway like I usaley do the vehical gets alot of early morning an all day sun. if I drive straight into driveway the front is in the shade.
should I drive straight into shade recharge early befoe it gets hot?

when recharging do leave the doors open? I don't think there is a recirculation buttom on this 05 GM express 3500.


AC **** turned to blue.
thanks will report back.

 

"Max A/C" setting is how you activate re-circulation, just like on our 4th gen F-bodies.

 

Just charge it up man, it doesn't matter what the temp is when you do it just keep in mind the warmer it is the higher the pressure will need to read to be fully charged enough to work correctly.

The worry of cans blowing up was a long time ago, when someone would try and hook a can to the high side line on the old R12 systems.... you cant do that on 134a

 

attempted to charge no freeon was sucked in, after 15 minutes the can seams to be full an needle is doing exact same thing.

I'll crawl under vehical an see if compressors clugch engauges if it doesnt then do thisHow to jump the AC sensor to force compressor to suck in freeon



AC compressor relay https://www.youtube.com/shorts/ZBqJiWfrA7s


or should I remove oroface inside dryers tube I think it could be in firewall?

 

I thought the vans AC compressor was down low on pass. Side like the LS1s.

Now I know it’s on top front driver side just like the 02 an older 5.7 vortex.



I will observe the clutch to see if it engauges, will also physically feel the clutch.



Then procede to replace the known to fail seals.

1.swap new oroface

2.swap fitting on same tube oroface is inside.

3.swap preasure switch O ring or whole PS

4.swap scrader valve inside preasure switch

5.swap scrader valve inside dryer.

How doe’s my plan sound. Sure hope the compressor isn’t falling apart. Bc if it is I’ll replace everything compressor/condenser/lines that connect the two/ dryer/ oroface basicely everything except the evaporator bc the oroface protects it an I don’t want to completely disassemble the whole dash. Hows my plan look.



Evidently these GM seals are known failures.

 

no....

your can is not letting freon flow when your pulling the trigger, you need a different can or your trigger is messed up.

the compressor it turning on, that is why the pressure is dropping way down and then coming back up, when the compressor kicks on it will suck down the low side which is the line you are hooked to with you guage.

 

You still can if you have the high side connected and you open the high side valve and you have a can connected to the center yellow hose. I'm guessing 250 psi on that can wouldn't be fun. Although in this case, I doubt he even has 80 psi on the high side since the system is low.