Michael94Formula

by 94TA

Hey I'm new here, I just got my first Firebird in over 14 years. I just wanted to say AWESOME site. I know this is an old thread but it saved me hours of headscratching. I've been reading alot since getting the car last Friday, and I've founds answer's to just about everything I've needed.

Later,
Michael Chandler

2MuchRiceMakesMeSick

Lots of good information here.

Welcome to the site

Super Speed

iTrader: (8)

This too recently helped me out!! I still need to replace the bulb but I found the answer I was looking to in a second where it would have cost me money to have it checked! Or maybe my dad woulda known but still great site!

93TAWicked1

iTrader: (28)

This information is incorrect. Not an expert but I had this happen tonight in my Z28 and it is the flasher (blinker relay) put the old one back in just to make sure it wasn't a short or something. The old one still did not work.

My symptom was the Passenger rear turn signal did not blink. The light did come on and you could manually "blink" it. The Drivers side was working correctly.

1. I moved the drivers side bulb to the passenger side. Same problem.
2. Checked the Hazards they worked on both sides.
3. Replaced the Flasher relay and the passenger side blinker now works.
4. Put the old flasher back in to see if its a short because of this post saying it was impossible. Blinker does not work.
5. Put the new flasher back in, blinker works.

I don't know why, I don't know how a thermal flasher works (both old and new are thermals) but I did have one side blinks other does not and the culprit was the flasher relay thingy.

Just putting this here in case someone else searches on it like I did
Bobby

ZeeVert

For those that are interested, here is a picture of a typical flasher...
Flasher
This one happens to be metal, but many have plastic housings. They all have 2 prongs that are at a right angle to each other. It's about one inch long and one inch in diameter.
I haven't looked for mine, but there should be two flashers in the F-bodies and they should be under the dash. One is for the 4-way emergency flashers and the other is for the turn signals (one flasher for BOTH turn signals).

Here is a simplified wiring diagram for turn signals and other basic info...
Turn Signal Wiring

In my general experience with turn signal (TS) problems, the most common problem has been a burned out bulb. The second most common was a bad socket or connection/wire near the socket. A very distance third is a flasher. And extremely rare is the turn signal switch.

I used to be a mechanic many years ago and currently maintain my family "fleet" of 5 cars. I replace a TS bulb about every year or two. I replaced a socket on an Expedition a couple years ago, and maybe 3-4 years before that. I haven't replaced a flasher in at least 20 years. The last TS switch has been maybe 30 years ago.

My point is that if you are visiting this thread because you have a TS problem; the odds are you have a bad bulb.
As many have stated, after you've swapped and replaced bulbs... start looking closely at the sockets and the wires near the sockets (It sounds like the front Camaro sockets are especially touchy).
Finally, if you want to try the flasher... knock yourself out... maybe it'll fix your problem, and it doesn't cost that much to try.

And it's funny, but I don't remember ever replacing a TS bulb in the dash. And if I ever needed to replace a TS fuse, it was probably for something stupid I did.

WhiteBird00

iTrader: (4)

I would go back and check all your bulbs again. As I said before, it is a physical impossibility to have one side working but the other side not flash and the cause being the flasher (because both sides use the same flasher).

In your case, I would check the front side marker light on the passenger side. It is possible that the original flasher was in marginal condition and that the small amount of current draw missing from a burned out marker light was enough to keep it from flashing. A new flasher would appear to solve the problem by being less sensitive to the slight change in current draw. It is also possible to create the same situation by replacing an original bulb with one that has a lower wattage (i.e. replacing the original 3157 with a 3057 or 2057). The difference is quite small but could be enough to interfere with the operation of a marginal flasher.

There are two kinds of flashers (actually three but the electro-mechanical kind isn't common anymore). Thermal flashers work much like a household thermostat. They have a bi-metal strip that heats up when current flows and bend to break contact. When the strip cools it returns to its original position and makes contact again allowing the current to flow. A burned out bulb can reduce the current flow to the point where the bi-metal strip doesn't heat up enough to break contact so the lights go on but don't flash. An electronic flasher achieves the same flashing action using solid-state circuitry. As such, they aren't affected by changes in current flow and are popular for trailering applications (the additional bulbs on the trailer don't change the flash rate). Recently, many electronic flashers have had burned out bulb detection built in - they flash twice as fast on the side that has a burned out bulb to let you know.

So, although in this case you didn't do this, replacing a thermal flasher with an electronic one will also appear to solve the problem and make you think that the flasher was the original problem. Another possibility is that you replaced the original thermal flasher designed for up to six bulbs with a light duty one that is designed for four bulbs. In this case you should notice one side flashing faster than the other.

BTW, not all flashers have two terminals - some have three. Back in the "good old days", some cars even had four terminals or more on vehicle-specific flashers. The three-prong flashers explain VIP1's comment about flashing faster when a bulb is burned out. Three-prong flashers cycle opposite to two-prong ones. The third prong goes to ground (there is a resistor in line to prevent a short circuit). Current flowing through the bi-metal arm to ground causes the arm to heat up and move into contact with the other prong which powers the signals. When it cools it moves back to the ground contact. If a bulb is burned out then the arm will cool quicker when in contact with the signal contact due to lower current flow and break contact sooner (flash faster).

Also, although commonly used, the term "blinker relay" is inaccurate. A flasher is not a relay - there is no coil or low power trigger circuit as there is in a relay.

93TAWicked1

iTrader: (28)

Cool I'll check the front bulbs.

cgworth

iTrader: (11)

check the blinker fluid

steveb1

Just had the same problem and replaced my front left directional bulb.

The part number was Sylvania 3457ALL. Got it right out of the book at the auto parts store (Advanced Auto Parts). They were out of them and got the bulb at Pep Boys. Like $8 for two bulbs

WhiteBird00

iTrader: (4)

Well no, that isn't the correct replacement number although it will work. Check your owners manual and you'll see that the 3157-series bulb is the factory replacement. The 3457 is the same size but is brighter - 3 and 40 candlepower rather than the 3 and 32 candlepower of the stock 3157.

steveb1

OH Well.. That's what the book says.. I guess lots of people are using the wrong bulb.

WhiteBird00

iTrader: (4)

That's not unusual. The bulb manufacturers will list replacement bulbs that they want to sell so that they don't have to stock all of the possible bulb numbers. There is no problem using the 3457 instead of the 3157 but you might want to replace both sides so that one doesn't look brighter than the other.

Super Speed

iTrader: (8)

I don't think it will matter since you don't have both bulbs on at the same time when you are turning. I went to autozone but the guy gave me the hazard bulb when I clearly told him I needed the turn bulb, thats autozone for you though...I paid like 2 dollars for it and I replaced it thinking it was the turn bulb but it wasnt and I wasnt about to take it back out for 2$.....

CLIFF'S NOTES = Make sure the bulb you replace is big

WhiteBird00

iTrader: (4)

Ah, yes...but both bulbs are on as daytime running lights. That's when you would notice one brighter than the other.

NHRAMAN

iTrader: (1)

that is what mine does when bulb is no good...has happened 3-4 times---REPLACE BULB and see....

Ryan Curry

I am having a similar problem, but when I turn on my left turn signal, the indicator light stays solid, no blinking, the turn signals on the frint and rear don't blink either, however unlike some that I have read, even when the hazards are on, they don't blink, I have read that it could be a number of things, but I could really use some help,

Also my rear left taillight is stuck on as well, replaced the bulb and still doing the same, checked connections on plug, all seem fine as well, any ideas?

WhiteBird00

iTrader: (4)

Please list which lights work and under what circumstances. For example, do the daytime running lights work on both sides? Do any of the lights go on (whether flashing or non-flashing) when you use the turn signals? Do the front and rear lamps work when the headlights are on? Do the rear brake lights work on both sides? Does the left tail light stay on even when the headlights are off? When the ignition is off?

The more details you can provide, the better we will be able to suggest possible causes.

Ryan Curry

sorry, yes he daytime running lights stay on, everything is working properly other then my blinkers on my left side only not working, right side works, and both bulbs on left side are good, only the rear lamp works when headlights are on, and yes the brake lights work on both sides, it's just the left side is always applied

komik

iTrader: (7)

I'm a little confused by your first post, but your second post sounds like your front bulb needs replacement. It has two filaments. With the headlights off, the DRL's illuminate the brighter side of the turn signal bulbs. With the headlights on, the running lights illuminate the dimmer side of the turn signal bulbs. That is what you say is not working.

A bulb that "looks good" does not necessarily mean the bulb is good. Sometimes the break is too small to be easily seen. Pop a new 3157 in there and you should be good to go.

1sbyrd

...I have a similar problem. Hazard work and indicate on the dash...yet blinkers do not work and it doesn't light up on my panel?.... any ideas folks before I begin to tear into this???


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