Redline Oil - Where To Get?
04-14-2003, 10:09 AM
#2
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Re: Redline Oil - Where To Get? i pretty sure some of the sponsors sell it. and i know Jegs sells it. all pretty comparable in price. im lucky, i can get it in town <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />
04-15-2003, 04:54 AM
#4
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Re: Redline Oil - Where To Get? Thunder Racing sells it:
http://www.thunderracing.com/
When you get to their page, do a search for oil and it will come up.
http://www.thunderracing.com/
When you get to their page, do a search for oil and it will come up.
04-15-2003, 05:16 PM
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Re: Redline Oil - Where To Get? ...is red-line oil a true synthetic?
I heard that oil makers like Syntec, Quaker State and others went to court to allow them to use the name synthetic oil for DINO juice.
Unfortunately, they won the case so when you buy Syntec synthetic oil it is really a petroleum product and you are getting RIPPED OFF by SADDAM and the oil companies! Why should this surprise you?
According to the source I talked with, Mobil One is the only true synthetic oil.
I'm not sure he considered Red Line but I do know one thing - that stuff is PRICEY!
I heard that oil makers like Syntec, Quaker State and others went to court to allow them to use the name synthetic oil for DINO juice.
Unfortunately, they won the case so when you buy Syntec synthetic oil it is really a petroleum product and you are getting RIPPED OFF by SADDAM and the oil companies! Why should this surprise you?
According to the source I talked with, Mobil One is the only true synthetic oil.
I'm not sure he considered Red Line but I do know one thing - that stuff is PRICEY!
04-15-2003, 06:41 PM
#6
TECH Senior Member
Re: Redline Oil - Where To Get? Redline is definitely a full synthetic oil, in fact it uses the best base oil of all the synthetics, it's made of polyol esters. This type of base oil is the most stable, has excellent cleanliness and allows the oil to have a higher film strength than other synthetics, for lower bearing wear.
Mobil 1 is still a full synthetic, so is Amsoil. I'm not so sure about Royal Purple after my poor oil analysis results on it in my wife's car (it thinned out to a 5w20 in only 2600 miles) I have a feeling Royal Purple is not full synthetic.
All the other so called synthetics on the shelves are not fully synthetic, they use a group 3 hydrocracked petroleum base oil. The one exception to this is the new 0w30 Castrol Syntec which has been in Canada for a short while, and is arriving in the US right now. This stuff says made in Germany on it, and it's from Castrol of Europe, it's their awesome Formula SLX oil, which is definitely fully synthetic, and this is an incredibly good oil. I put some in my sister's car a few weeks ago, and will be switching mine over to it in a few months, and my wife's car at the end of the year.
If Redline wasn't $15 a quart in Canada, I'd be using it for sure though.
Mobil 1 is still a full synthetic, so is Amsoil. I'm not so sure about Royal Purple after my poor oil analysis results on it in my wife's car (it thinned out to a 5w20 in only 2600 miles) I have a feeling Royal Purple is not full synthetic.
All the other so called synthetics on the shelves are not fully synthetic, they use a group 3 hydrocracked petroleum base oil. The one exception to this is the new 0w30 Castrol Syntec which has been in Canada for a short while, and is arriving in the US right now. This stuff says made in Germany on it, and it's from Castrol of Europe, it's their awesome Formula SLX oil, which is definitely fully synthetic, and this is an incredibly good oil. I put some in my sister's car a few weeks ago, and will be switching mine over to it in a few months, and my wife's car at the end of the year.
If Redline wasn't $15 a quart in Canada, I'd be using it for sure though.
04-16-2003, 09:06 AM
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Re: Redline Oil - Where To Get? I got mine at the following site for $7.00 a qt. which was the lowest I could find and the shipping was reasonable.
http://www.myoilshop.com/AutoPrds.html
http://www.myoilshop.com/AutoPrds.html
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04-16-2003, 10:24 AM
#8
Re: Redline Oil - Where To Get? Royal Purple IS fully synthetic except for the carrier oil used for the additive package, which is a hydrocracked base (their street oils only).The race oils are 100% synthetic and have their best additive package. The reason why Patman's oil may have thinned down is possibly because of possible use of VII polymers which may thin out a bit around the 2K to 3K mile point and then thicken up again. RP is an excellent oil and if you can afford the race oils your getting one of the best out there.
<small>[ April 16, 2003, 11:33 AM: Message edited by: StevieZ ]</small>
<small>[ April 16, 2003, 11:33 AM: Message edited by: StevieZ ]</small>
04-16-2003, 01:22 PM
#9
TECH Senior Member
Re: Redline Oil - Where To Get? Royal Purple must use the cheapest quality VII then, because most good synthetics don't thin out like it does. It's not good when an oil thins out so fast like this, even if it thickens up later on. For that period of time it's thinner, it's not protecting your bearings very well, and as it's thickening up again, it's oxidizing and leaving deposits inside your engine.
Amsoil, Redline and Mobil 1 do not thin out at all like Royal Purple does, they generally remain within 0.5cst of their original viscosity (in the 5w30 and 10w30 weights) in a 5-6k oil interval. But yet that Royal Purple in my wife's car dropped by 2.6cst in 2600 miles! (and there was no fuel in the oil either, which tends to make the viscosity numbeer show lower) Who knows how much further it would've dropped before it thickened up again. I do plan on running her current new batch of RP for 5000 miles to see how the wear metals look, but I am betting it won't be anywhere near as good as last years run on the old version of Mobil 1.
So whether or not Royal Purple is a full synthetic, actually does not matter, because either way you look at it, it's a terrible oil. I have not seen a single Royal Purple oil analysis which looked impressive to me at all, it's simply an oil that is all hype with zero performance. Show me an oil analysis with Royal Purple that even comes close to the performance of these two below for instance:
Schaeffer 10w30:
http://theoildrop.server101.com/ubb/...c;f=3;t=000377
Redline 5w30:
http://theoildrop.server101.com/ubb/...c;f=3;t=000340
Amsoil, Redline and Mobil 1 do not thin out at all like Royal Purple does, they generally remain within 0.5cst of their original viscosity (in the 5w30 and 10w30 weights) in a 5-6k oil interval. But yet that Royal Purple in my wife's car dropped by 2.6cst in 2600 miles! (and there was no fuel in the oil either, which tends to make the viscosity numbeer show lower) Who knows how much further it would've dropped before it thickened up again. I do plan on running her current new batch of RP for 5000 miles to see how the wear metals look, but I am betting it won't be anywhere near as good as last years run on the old version of Mobil 1.
So whether or not Royal Purple is a full synthetic, actually does not matter, because either way you look at it, it's a terrible oil. I have not seen a single Royal Purple oil analysis which looked impressive to me at all, it's simply an oil that is all hype with zero performance. Show me an oil analysis with Royal Purple that even comes close to the performance of these two below for instance:
Schaeffer 10w30:
http://theoildrop.server101.com/ubb/...c;f=3;t=000377
Redline 5w30:
http://theoildrop.server101.com/ubb/...c;f=3;t=000340
04-16-2003, 02:07 PM
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Re: Redline Oil - Where To Get? Hey Batman:
What kind of car does your wife drive? My wife is replacing her car soon and I want her to avoid your lemon.
...by the way, how did you come to measure the viscousity of the used oil in your cars after "installation"? Do you own a viscousity measuring device? Why? Can I borrow it?
For your information, I'm a compulsive oil changer. I've tried to quit changing my oil so frequently but I just can't bring myself to stop. In recent years, my compulsion has increased (at least once a month; I change oil and filter twice each time so I get all the old stuff out) Did anyone notice that true synthetics tend to turn black faster than DINO juice oils; this does not help my situation - yaaaa know? HELP ME PLEASE!!!!!! ...the cost alone is killing me...
I feel if I had access to a viscousity tester that I might change oil less frequently. Is the deterioration of viscosity the only factor in determining how often I should change oil? What else is important; the color of the oil; how the car is driven; where you might live, etc?
What kind of car does your wife drive? My wife is replacing her car soon and I want her to avoid your lemon.
...by the way, how did you come to measure the viscousity of the used oil in your cars after "installation"? Do you own a viscousity measuring device? Why? Can I borrow it?
For your information, I'm a compulsive oil changer. I've tried to quit changing my oil so frequently but I just can't bring myself to stop. In recent years, my compulsion has increased (at least once a month; I change oil and filter twice each time so I get all the old stuff out) Did anyone notice that true synthetics tend to turn black faster than DINO juice oils; this does not help my situation - yaaaa know? HELP ME PLEASE!!!!!! ...the cost alone is killing me...
I feel if I had access to a viscousity tester that I might change oil less frequently. Is the deterioration of viscosity the only factor in determining how often I should change oil? What else is important; the color of the oil; how the car is driven; where you might live, etc?
04-16-2003, 02:19 PM
#12
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Re: Redline Oil - Where To Get? </font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by robertbartsch:
<strong> Hey Batman:
What kind of car does your wife drive? My wife is replacing her car soon and I want her to avoid your lemon.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">She has a 2000 Honda Civic, and it's been perfect so far (but if we continue to run Royal Purple over the long haul I'm sure it's engine will not live as long as it would with better oils)
</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif"><strong>
...by the way, how did you come to measure the viscousity of the used oil in your cars after "installation"? Do you own a viscousity measuring device? Why? Can I borrow it?</strong>
</font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Before I put the oil in her car I sent it off to an oil analysis lab to have it tested, one of the things they test for is actual viscosity, in centistokes at 100 celcius. At the end of her interval with the oil I drew a sample of the used oil and also sent it to an oil analysis lab, where they tested the wear metals in it and the viscosity. I even had them rerun my sample to double check that the viscosity was correct, and it was.
</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif"><strong>
I feel if I had access to a viscousity tester that I might change oil less frequently. Is the deterioration of viscosity the only factor in determining how often I should change oil? What else is important; the color of the oil; how the car is driven; where you might live, etc? </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Viscosity is not the only factor when determining when oil should be changed, you have to look at the bigger picture. That means looking at the oil's oxidation and nitration numbers, looking at the concentration of wear metals in it, and also looking at it's TBN, which stands for Total Base Number, and it determines how much acid neutralizing capability is left in the oil. I use a consultant by the name of Terry Dyson to help me interpret all my oil analysis results on my cars, and he has over 20 years experience doing this, and knows exactly what to look for when determining oil change intervals for his customers. He wasn't impressed at all with the thinning out of this oil, but wants me to run this next batch out to 5k just to see how the wear metals look. I was hesitant to run this oil for a second interval, but out of morbid curiosity I decided what the hell.
FWIW, the only reason I ran Royal Purple was because it was sent to me for free! I was bad mouthing this oil so much that one of Royal Purple's salesman told me he'd send me a free case, and only after I had run it and done oil analysis did he feel I had a right to bad mouth it. He was confident that the oil was going to perform for me, but it sure backfired on him, because now there is probably nobody on the BOBISTHEOILGUY.com message board who will want to run this oil anymore.
<small>[ April 16, 2003, 02:25 PM: Message edited by: Patman ]</small>
<strong> Hey Batman:
What kind of car does your wife drive? My wife is replacing her car soon and I want her to avoid your lemon.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">She has a 2000 Honda Civic, and it's been perfect so far (but if we continue to run Royal Purple over the long haul I'm sure it's engine will not live as long as it would with better oils)
</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif"><strong>
...by the way, how did you come to measure the viscousity of the used oil in your cars after "installation"? Do you own a viscousity measuring device? Why? Can I borrow it?</strong>
</font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Before I put the oil in her car I sent it off to an oil analysis lab to have it tested, one of the things they test for is actual viscosity, in centistokes at 100 celcius. At the end of her interval with the oil I drew a sample of the used oil and also sent it to an oil analysis lab, where they tested the wear metals in it and the viscosity. I even had them rerun my sample to double check that the viscosity was correct, and it was.
</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif"><strong>
I feel if I had access to a viscousity tester that I might change oil less frequently. Is the deterioration of viscosity the only factor in determining how often I should change oil? What else is important; the color of the oil; how the car is driven; where you might live, etc? </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Viscosity is not the only factor when determining when oil should be changed, you have to look at the bigger picture. That means looking at the oil's oxidation and nitration numbers, looking at the concentration of wear metals in it, and also looking at it's TBN, which stands for Total Base Number, and it determines how much acid neutralizing capability is left in the oil. I use a consultant by the name of Terry Dyson to help me interpret all my oil analysis results on my cars, and he has over 20 years experience doing this, and knows exactly what to look for when determining oil change intervals for his customers. He wasn't impressed at all with the thinning out of this oil, but wants me to run this next batch out to 5k just to see how the wear metals look. I was hesitant to run this oil for a second interval, but out of morbid curiosity I decided what the hell.
FWIW, the only reason I ran Royal Purple was because it was sent to me for free! I was bad mouthing this oil so much that one of Royal Purple's salesman told me he'd send me a free case, and only after I had run it and done oil analysis did he feel I had a right to bad mouth it. He was confident that the oil was going to perform for me, but it sure backfired on him, because now there is probably nobody on the BOBISTHEOILGUY.com message board who will want to run this oil anymore.
<small>[ April 16, 2003, 02:25 PM: Message edited by: Patman ]</small>
04-16-2003, 02:44 PM
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Re: Redline Oil - Where To Get? WOW - thanks... is the oil analysis expensive?
I can't imagine why anyone would drive a car more than a few thousand miles without changing the oil and filter twice (like me) back-to-back...
I did, however, hear of one person on the board that drove his car (83 Toyota) over 200 thou without changing the oil (Yeh it was DINO then!)...Now THAT is really scary to me! If I did this I would not even tell a preist because it is surely a mortal sin!
What can you tell me about the oils used in a gearbox; ours is Dextron III, right?
When I used to rebuild transmissions in the 70's all gear boxes used heavy gear oil. I was amazed to learn that Dextron is now used in the late models...cool hey?
I can't imagine why anyone would drive a car more than a few thousand miles without changing the oil and filter twice (like me) back-to-back...
I did, however, hear of one person on the board that drove his car (83 Toyota) over 200 thou without changing the oil (Yeh it was DINO then!)...Now THAT is really scary to me! If I did this I would not even tell a preist because it is surely a mortal sin!
What can you tell me about the oils used in a gearbox; ours is Dextron III, right?
When I used to rebuild transmissions in the 70's all gear boxes used heavy gear oil. I was amazed to learn that Dextron is now used in the late models...cool hey?
04-16-2003, 02:51 PM
#14
TECH Senior Member
Re: Redline Oil - Where To Get? </font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by robertbartsch:
<strong> WOW - thanks... is the oil analysis expensive?</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Not really, I've seen some oil analysis for as low as $8 per sample, but generally they run around $20 to $30. You can get them done from here:
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/oilanalysis.html
</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif"><strong>
I can't imagine why anyone would drive a car more than a few thousand miles without changing the oil and filter twice (like me) back-to-back...</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Well I must admit I'm guilty of something similar. Last weekend I drained the oil out of my mom's car, poured in a 4L jug of 5w30 Castrol GTX, ran it for 2min, then drained it out and put in fresh oil (this time going with Castrol GTX High Mileage 5w30)
</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif"><strong>
What can you tell me about the oils used in a gearbox; ours is Dextron III, right?
</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">I know Dexron III is used in the 6 speed, but I'm not 100% sure if it's in the A4s too. From what I understand, Dexron III has a viscosity very similar to 5w20 engine oil. And contrary to popular belief, trans fluid is not heavily loaded with detergents, so those people that use it to try and clean out their engines aren't really doing themselves much good.
<strong> WOW - thanks... is the oil analysis expensive?</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Not really, I've seen some oil analysis for as low as $8 per sample, but generally they run around $20 to $30. You can get them done from here:
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/oilanalysis.html
</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif"><strong>
I can't imagine why anyone would drive a car more than a few thousand miles without changing the oil and filter twice (like me) back-to-back...</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Well I must admit I'm guilty of something similar. Last weekend I drained the oil out of my mom's car, poured in a 4L jug of 5w30 Castrol GTX, ran it for 2min, then drained it out and put in fresh oil (this time going with Castrol GTX High Mileage 5w30)
</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif"><strong>
What can you tell me about the oils used in a gearbox; ours is Dextron III, right?
</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">I know Dexron III is used in the 6 speed, but I'm not 100% sure if it's in the A4s too. From what I understand, Dexron III has a viscosity very similar to 5w20 engine oil. And contrary to popular belief, trans fluid is not heavily loaded with detergents, so those people that use it to try and clean out their engines aren't really doing themselves much good.
04-16-2003, 03:09 PM
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Re: Redline Oil - Where To Get? WOW...all this is so confusing....but is there any benefit to running new oil for a little while like what you did Patman..........what's the real benefit........Meaning pouring in new oil and running it for two minutes then taking it out and using new one.....whoa!!.seems like a waste of oil doesn't it......How often could we do this ?.....say every 3000....6000....9000?miles.........what oil could we use to clean out the old one......Reason is.....who would waste 5 bucks a quart just to run it for two minutes and take it right out?..........How many quarts could we run.....the usual 5 1/2 to 6 quarts to clean .......Am I confused PATMAN..... <img border="0" title="" alt="[Confused]" src="images/icons/confused.gif" />
04-16-2003, 03:40 PM
#17
Re: Redline Oil - Where To Get? </font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by Patman:
FWIW, the only reason I ran Royal Purple was because it was sent to me for free! I was bad mouthing this oil so much that one of Royal Purple's salesman told me he'd send me a free case, and only after I had run it and done oil analysis did he feel I had a right to bad mouth it. He was confident that the oil was going to perform for me, but it sure backfired on him, because now there is probably nobody on the BOBISTHEOILGUY.com message board who will want to run this oil anymore. [/QB]</font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Yah we already know you were jaded when you put the oil in your car. Then you sent the virgin sample to one lab and the used sample to another! Great baseline parameters!!
You don't seem to mention the good analysis results that people get such as mine with RP41.
I will post my analyis results on my new motor and I guaranty they will be good! Your own Guru
Terry Dyson has only good things to say about RP and I respect his opinion more than yours any day of the week.
FWIW, the only reason I ran Royal Purple was because it was sent to me for free! I was bad mouthing this oil so much that one of Royal Purple's salesman told me he'd send me a free case, and only after I had run it and done oil analysis did he feel I had a right to bad mouth it. He was confident that the oil was going to perform for me, but it sure backfired on him, because now there is probably nobody on the BOBISTHEOILGUY.com message board who will want to run this oil anymore. [/QB]</font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Yah we already know you were jaded when you put the oil in your car. Then you sent the virgin sample to one lab and the used sample to another! Great baseline parameters!!
You don't seem to mention the good analysis results that people get such as mine with RP41.
I will post my analyis results on my new motor and I guaranty they will be good! Your own Guru
Terry Dyson has only good things to say about RP and I respect his opinion more than yours any day of the week.
04-16-2003, 03:41 PM
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Re: Redline Oil - Where To Get? ...oh yeh, that reminds me of something I had forgotten until now....
Transmission rebuilders are a strange group (me excluded since I have been a CPA for 25 years now and have no compulsions)
...Back then, ALL tranny guys would use Dextron or Ford transmission fluid in their engines....I think you are right that we thought it had a lot of useful chemicals, detergents, etc. that would help avoid wear...not to mention the cost (zero) was hard to beat! It also looks cool when you show a friend the dip stick covered in red shiny fluid and watch their reaction - WOW that's cool!
Another wierd thing about this group is that we used to assemble transmissions using Vaseoline jelly...EVERYONE used it. It dissolved easliy when the fluid first became hot and did not clog valve body parts, survous, clutch packs, rubber seals, etc....what is your view of the jelly mixing with oil; is it a possible use for engine assembly? I assume it is still used in tranny rebuilding...
Auto transmissions back then used to blow up a lot, most always a result of overheating (the classic burn up) ...I have heard the composition of transmission fluids now has been changed and that that they can sustain heat better...
...I'm reasonably certain that if I tore apart a tranny today it would look much like those early units - C4, C6, Turbo 350, 400, Torqueflight 6, 8...Point being ...the more reliable units today seem to be a function of better fluids??? ..maybe better coolers too!
Someone told me that trans fluid in the old days was made with castor oil and not DINO based oil. What is Dextron III made from?
...your mom should thank you for the double oil change...I run my first change with a new filter for about ten minutes, however...then change filter and oil a second time...clean as a baby's behind!
Transmission rebuilders are a strange group (me excluded since I have been a CPA for 25 years now and have no compulsions)
...Back then, ALL tranny guys would use Dextron or Ford transmission fluid in their engines....I think you are right that we thought it had a lot of useful chemicals, detergents, etc. that would help avoid wear...not to mention the cost (zero) was hard to beat! It also looks cool when you show a friend the dip stick covered in red shiny fluid and watch their reaction - WOW that's cool!
Another wierd thing about this group is that we used to assemble transmissions using Vaseoline jelly...EVERYONE used it. It dissolved easliy when the fluid first became hot and did not clog valve body parts, survous, clutch packs, rubber seals, etc....what is your view of the jelly mixing with oil; is it a possible use for engine assembly? I assume it is still used in tranny rebuilding...
Auto transmissions back then used to blow up a lot, most always a result of overheating (the classic burn up) ...I have heard the composition of transmission fluids now has been changed and that that they can sustain heat better...
...I'm reasonably certain that if I tore apart a tranny today it would look much like those early units - C4, C6, Turbo 350, 400, Torqueflight 6, 8...Point being ...the more reliable units today seem to be a function of better fluids??? ..maybe better coolers too!
Someone told me that trans fluid in the old days was made with castor oil and not DINO based oil. What is Dextron III made from?
...your mom should thank you for the double oil change...I run my first change with a new filter for about ten minutes, however...then change filter and oil a second time...clean as a baby's behind!
04-16-2003, 03:42 PM
#19
TECH Senior Member
Re: Redline Oil - Where To Get? </font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by jpz28:
<strong> WOW...all this is so confusing....but is there any benefit to running new oil for a little while like what you did Patman..........what's the real benefit........Meaning pouring in new oil and running it for two minutes then taking it out and using new one.....whoa!!.seems like a waste of oil doesn't it......How often could we do this ?.....say every 3000....6000....9000?miles.........what oil could we use to clean out the old one......Reason is.....who would waste 5 bucks a quart just to run it for two minutes and take it right out?..........How many quarts could we run.....the usual 5 1/2 to 6 quarts to clean .......Am I confused PATMAN..... <img border="0" title="" alt="[Confused]" src="images/icons/confused.gif" /> </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">I only did that because I was switching my mom's car over from Mobil 1 to the new Castrol High Mileage oil, so I wanted to have 99% Castrol oil in there after the oil change (since I'm going to be doing an oil analysis on it at the end of the year), and I figured the GTX and GTX High mileage have pretty similar additive chemistry other than the fact that the High Mileage stuff is thicker and has probably 10% esters in it's base oil. I also had two jugs of 5w30 GTX sitting in my basement that I had originally planned on using in my sister's car, but changed my mind, so I figured if I didn't use up one of the jugs somehow, it would just gather dust in my basement. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" /> Now I need to figure out what to do with the rest of my oil supply that I have that I'll probably never use (which is 5L of GTX 10w30, 4L of GTX 5w30 and 2 quarts of Royal Purple 5w30)
So really there isn't much need for you guys to be doing this crazy flush idea that I did. If I didn't already have the oil on hand I probably wouldn't have bothered doing it.
<strong> WOW...all this is so confusing....but is there any benefit to running new oil for a little while like what you did Patman..........what's the real benefit........Meaning pouring in new oil and running it for two minutes then taking it out and using new one.....whoa!!.seems like a waste of oil doesn't it......How often could we do this ?.....say every 3000....6000....9000?miles.........what oil could we use to clean out the old one......Reason is.....who would waste 5 bucks a quart just to run it for two minutes and take it right out?..........How many quarts could we run.....the usual 5 1/2 to 6 quarts to clean .......Am I confused PATMAN..... <img border="0" title="" alt="[Confused]" src="images/icons/confused.gif" /> </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">I only did that because I was switching my mom's car over from Mobil 1 to the new Castrol High Mileage oil, so I wanted to have 99% Castrol oil in there after the oil change (since I'm going to be doing an oil analysis on it at the end of the year), and I figured the GTX and GTX High mileage have pretty similar additive chemistry other than the fact that the High Mileage stuff is thicker and has probably 10% esters in it's base oil. I also had two jugs of 5w30 GTX sitting in my basement that I had originally planned on using in my sister's car, but changed my mind, so I figured if I didn't use up one of the jugs somehow, it would just gather dust in my basement. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" /> Now I need to figure out what to do with the rest of my oil supply that I have that I'll probably never use (which is 5L of GTX 10w30, 4L of GTX 5w30 and 2 quarts of Royal Purple 5w30)
So really there isn't much need for you guys to be doing this crazy flush idea that I did. If I didn't already have the oil on hand I probably wouldn't have bothered doing it.
04-16-2003, 03:49 PM
#20
TECH Senior Member
Re: Redline Oil - Where To Get? </font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by StevieZ:
<strong>
Yah we already know you were jaded when you put the oil in your car. Then you sent the virgin sample to one lab and the used sample to another! Great baseline parameters!!
You don't seem to mention the good analysis results that people get such as mine with RP41.
I will post my analyis results on my new motor and I guaranty they will be good! Your own Guru Terry Dyson has only good things to say about RP and I respect his opinion more than yours any day of the week. </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">I saw your last oil analysis results on RP41 and wasn't impressed. IIRC you had quite a bit of iron, over 50ppm in a rather short interval. Like I said, I have yet to see a single Royal Purple UOA that has impressed me, not a single one of them has looked anywhere near as good as those two I posted further up in this thread.
And it doesn't matter that I sent the different oil samples to different labs, as viscosity is one test which is very repeatable from lab to lab. They don't vary much more than 0.2 to 0.3cst, so it's definitely a valid comparison.
I went into this test with an open mind, hoping Royal Purple had improved it's formulation with the new SL designation. But it's obvious they have not. I don't know why people get so angry with me when I tell them that this oil simply is not worth their money. There are many other oils out there for the same, or less money, which have proven themselves to be better. I don't buy into the hype when it comes to oils, I look at the oil analysis results to help make my decisions. And simply put, this oil does not perform. Redline does. Amsoil does. Schaeffer Oil does. Even Mobil 1, which I admit isn't as good as it could be, is still better than Royal Purple.
<small>[ April 16, 2003, 03:54 PM: Message edited by: Patman ]</small>
<strong>
Yah we already know you were jaded when you put the oil in your car. Then you sent the virgin sample to one lab and the used sample to another! Great baseline parameters!!
You don't seem to mention the good analysis results that people get such as mine with RP41.
I will post my analyis results on my new motor and I guaranty they will be good! Your own Guru Terry Dyson has only good things to say about RP and I respect his opinion more than yours any day of the week. </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">I saw your last oil analysis results on RP41 and wasn't impressed. IIRC you had quite a bit of iron, over 50ppm in a rather short interval. Like I said, I have yet to see a single Royal Purple UOA that has impressed me, not a single one of them has looked anywhere near as good as those two I posted further up in this thread.
And it doesn't matter that I sent the different oil samples to different labs, as viscosity is one test which is very repeatable from lab to lab. They don't vary much more than 0.2 to 0.3cst, so it's definitely a valid comparison.
I went into this test with an open mind, hoping Royal Purple had improved it's formulation with the new SL designation. But it's obvious they have not. I don't know why people get so angry with me when I tell them that this oil simply is not worth their money. There are many other oils out there for the same, or less money, which have proven themselves to be better. I don't buy into the hype when it comes to oils, I look at the oil analysis results to help make my decisions. And simply put, this oil does not perform. Redline does. Amsoil does. Schaeffer Oil does. Even Mobil 1, which I admit isn't as good as it could be, is still better than Royal Purple.
<small>[ April 16, 2003, 03:54 PM: Message edited by: Patman ]</small>