code4

iTrader: (30)

I use mobile 1 5w 30. I was very impressed when I opened up my motor, it was spotless clean after 20k miles.

Phoenix 5.7

iTrader: (7)

i use M1 10-30 in both, may go to 5-30.

ls1 1990 VN

I use 5w50 mobil 1, started to use it once the motor had done about 10k and have had no worries.

Patman

German Castrol Syntec 0w30 is much better. But if you can't find it, then Mobil 1 0w40 or 5w40 are good alternatives. Mobil 1 5w30 and 10w30 show higher engine wear in hard driven LS1s since they are very thin 30wt oils.

stevieturbo

Why do you all use oils that are so thin ?? Over here in the UK, there is only a small selection of cars that I would ever consider using an oil like a 0/30. I would never use it in a performance engine. What are the benefits ?

I know from experience, if you use it in a Subaru, expect very early big end failure, and there are quite a few other engines in the UK that dont like it. Use it, and some burn oil like its going out of fashion..

There's also mention here about oil. Using a thicker oil, increased oil pressure, similar oil temps, and no loss of power.
Surely thats good....
http://popularhotrodding.com/enginem...ck/0503em_ls6/

Patman

Keep in mind that the German 0w30 I'm referring to is what you've got over there as Formula SLX 0w30 (or at least it used to be there). This is a thick 30wt oil, almost a 0w40 actually. Castrol's Formula R 0w40, which you get over there, is actually not that much thicker than SLX 0w30. Formula R 0w40 is 12.9 cst at 100c, while SLX 0w30 is 12.2 cst. So they are very close in viscosity. I have seen very low engine wear using the SLX 0w30, and I do believe the 0w40 Castrol would also work extremely well.

In my observations, the LS1 engine does show it's best engine wear when running a thick 30wt to mid 40wt oil. So a lot of the 0w40 and 5w40 oils out there would work very well. I would not recommend anything thicker such as 5w50, 15w50, etc, as it's not really necessary unless you road race it a lot and see constant 300F oil temps.

99 Black Bird T/A

iTrader: (4)

Mobile 1 for 99 T/A, 91 RS, and the wifes 02 Z28

69_YENKO

iTrader: (16)

M1 10w-30 but im wanting to chang next oil change, where can i get the german castoral? ive never seen it.

STREET SHARK

I just put the castol 0w-30w made in germany! The lifter noise is allmost gone after 80 miles driving tonight! oil pressure at idle was 40, it went to50 and I drove tonight it was 60 on the highway I change it 7 hours ago! Great stuff! I tried mobil 1, redline,royal p, etc.

Tom@SpeedInc

iTrader: (5)

Don't use Mobil 1 cause their synthetic oils are very thin.

I use Castrol Syntec 0W30 made in germany. Its actually made in Austria, I spoke to a Castrol engineer at a NHRA event and had bit of a Q&A

You find German Castrol only at Auto Zone.

Around April or when the track opens I switch to Red Line Oil 5w30 for the racing season then in Fall switch back to GC.

Maybe this summer I will try Royal Purple Racing-41

stevieturbo

The Australian guys seem to mention this German stuff. Either way, a 0-weight oil will be very thin. I'l still be going for a 15/50 or a 10/60.
I'd never use any with a zero rating.

Just to see what others think.
http://www.ls1.com.au/forum/showthread.php?t=33333

http://www.ls1.com.au/forum/showthread.php?t=33447

Patman

It is not a zero weight oil though! The first number refers to it's cold cranking abilities. In this case, the 0w30 Castrol is actually thicker than most 10w30 and 5w30 oils out there, it's just that when it's extremely cold, it will flow better. But it's viscosity at 40C is actually higher than most 10w30s. So it is NOT a thin oil! Ignore the first number, it's the second one you need to be concerned with. And as I mentioned, this oil is almost a 40 weight oil, it's right at the top of the range for 30wt.

My oil analysis results from my Corvette prove this oil works extremely well in the LS1.


With 8000km on my oil (5000 miles) I got the following wear results:

Iron 8
Lead 1
Aluminum 3
Copper 2
Chromium 0
Tin 0
Silver 0
Titanium 0
Nickel 0
Vanadium 0


The guy who interprets my reports for me has told me this is by far the best LS1 oil analysis report he has ever seen. And he sees TONS of them!

MeentSS02

iTrader: (11)

Actually, it is just their 30wt oil that is thin...their 0w40 oil is pretty much middle of the road for a 40wt from what I've seen. It is 14.2cst whereas the German Castrol 0w30 is 12.2cst IIRC.

J-Rod

I'm runing 5w-40 Mobil 1 Truck and SUV forumula (repackaged Delvac).

W2WSS

ive been using mobil1for a few years here no probs.

pkincy

iTrader: (1)

I thought that Castrol Syntec was not synthetic but was dinosaur oil with a marketing name added to make it seem like it is synthetic. I don't much go for companies that have deceptive trade practices.

I only use full synthetic. No dino oil for me.

Mostly Mobil 1 10/40 in the street cars, Red Line 30 wt sythetic in the race car (no detergent or additives so no go for street cars) I got a case of RedLine 10/40 5 qt containers, but haven't used any yet. I need to check and see if it can be used in street catrs.

Perry

STREET SHARK

Anyone try the quantum blue by bnd, I think more performance sell it! And Its in most grades.

Race Car Driver

I am currently running 5W30 synthetic in my 622 BBC, but it would make a little more hp on lighter oils like Royal Purple Racing 11.

Ben R

We use nothing but Kendall. If we absolutely had to use something else it would be Mobil 1.

Damian

iTrader: (89)

Amsoil is the best IMO.

I run Valvoline in this car.

If you plan on tearing down and rebuilding something bigger/better sooner or later, wasting money on expensive oils isn't necessary. I used 89 cent Pepboys 10w30 oil in my Blown LT1 car. After two years of insane amounts of abuse, the tear down revealed nothing out of the ordinary. Bearings looked good, etc...Used the same oil in two previous F-bodies with zero issues.

That being said, if you're just going to keep the car stock and try to prolong the life of the short block for as long as possible, spending the extra 2-3 bucks per quart might be necessary. but if you plan on going into the bottom end at some point, just run a decent $1.50/qt oil and be done with it.