removing oil lever sensor?
removing oil lever sensor? ive put in a ls1 dash in my third gen and i am using a 97 model cluster.
i do NOT have a oil sensor, so my "LOW OIL" light is on.
ive traced the manual to a small brown wire. ive grounded it and fed it 12v and the light wont go off. all my other lights and gauges ive managed to get working, im stumped.
anyone know what i can do with this wire, im thinking it needs to see a certain resistance.
the "ABS INOP" light was on, but i found it worked off a certain resistance, so i stuck it to the fuel gauge. the ABS light only comes on when im low on gas, so its like a low fuel light for me.
any help is appreciated, even to make fun of me.
thanks!
i do NOT have a oil sensor, so my "LOW OIL" light is on.
ive traced the manual to a small brown wire. ive grounded it and fed it 12v and the light wont go off. all my other lights and gauges ive managed to get working, im stumped.
anyone know what i can do with this wire, im thinking it needs to see a certain resistance.
the "ABS INOP" light was on, but i found it worked off a certain resistance, so i stuck it to the fuel gauge. the ABS light only comes on when im low on gas, so its like a low fuel light for me.
any help is appreciated, even to make fun of me.
thanks!
TECH Veteran
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 4,012
Likes: 1
From: Beaumont, TX
Yeah, that is cool 
Might it be possible to add an actual low oil sensor instead of working around it? (I didn't manage to find any mention of what kind of signal the wire wants, unfortunately.) I can look up the part number for it if you're interested.
Might it be possible to add an actual low oil sensor instead of working around it? (I didn't manage to find any mention of what kind of signal the wire wants, unfortunately.) I can look up the part number for it if you're interested.
Originally Posted by ACW
Yeah, that is cool
Might it be possible to add an actual low oil sensor instead of working around it? (I didn't manage to find any mention of what kind of signal the wire wants, unfortunately.) I can look up the part number for it if you're interested.
Might it be possible to add an actual low oil sensor instead of working around it? (I didn't manage to find any mention of what kind of signal the wire wants, unfortunately.) I can look up the part number for it if you're interested.
my last name is McAnally.... kinda strange you replied to my post. it an OHM-an.
LOL
TECH Veteran
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 4,012
Likes: 1
From: Beaumont, TX
Originally Posted by TJ
ive got a carbed small block, no ECM or body control module. i have no desire to add a sensor. only thing i know to do is get a buddy over with a jack and measure the resistance of the sensor when the oil is at the appropriate level, then add in a resistor.
my last name is McAnally.... kinda strange you replied to my post. it an OHM-an.
LOL
LOL
The other guy who posted name is Shawn MacAnanny, so their names are close.
OHM-an. Ohms are units of resistance in electrical circuits, which is whats hes asking, but it sounds like omen.
Anyways, i think it was you that i just responded to on cz28, but if not. Jumper the wires together on the harness. That should do it.
OHM-an. Ohms are units of resistance in electrical circuits, which is whats hes asking, but it sounds like omen.
Anyways, i think it was you that i just responded to on cz28, but if not. Jumper the wires together on the harness. That should do it.
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Originally Posted by atljar
The other guy who posted name is Shawn MacAnanny, so their names are close.
OHM-an. Ohms are units of resistance in electrical circuits, which is whats hes asking, but it sounds like omen.
Anyways, i think it was you that i just responded to on cz28, but if not. Jumper the wires together on the harness. That should do it.
OHM-an. Ohms are units of resistance in electrical circuits, which is whats hes asking, but it sounds like omen.
Anyways, i think it was you that i just responded to on cz28, but if not. Jumper the wires together on the harness. That should do it.
i dont have a connector, so im in trouble.
ill figure it out sooner or later.
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Teching In
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 17
Likes: 0
From: Corona, CA
Oil Level Sensor Plug I've installed a 94 LT1 in my 73 240Z. I don't have the oil level sensor, but I need to plug the hole in my oil plan for this sensor. The problem is finding a plug that will fit. It's not an NPT thread, so I'm stumped on what the thread is and where I can find a plug for it. If nothing else if someone has an old oil level sensor that they don't need, maybe you can sell it to me (doesn't matter if it works or not).
Originally Posted by Bartman
I've installed a 94 LT1 in my 73 240Z. I don't have the oil level sensor, but I need to plug the hole in my oil plan for this sensor. The problem is finding a plug that will fit. It's not an NPT thread, so I'm stumped on what the thread is and where I can find a plug for it. If nothing else if someone has an old oil level sensor that they don't need, maybe you can sell it to me (doesn't matter if it works or not).
TECH Apprentice
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 384
Likes: 0
If you can wait until this evening, I've got my car torn apart. If you wish, I'll test the sensor's resistance, and gauge the thread size...
PS -- the sensor itself is GM part number 24507190 -- that includes the seal, if you want to go that route. Might be $30 bucks or so...
PS -- the sensor itself is GM part number 24507190 -- that includes the seal, if you want to go that route. Might be $30 bucks or so...
Last edited by Alex94TAGT; Mar 29, 2005 at 03:12 PM.
Teching In
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 17
Likes: 0
From: Corona, CA
Oil Level Sensor
Originally Posted by Alex94TAGT
If you can wait until this evening, I've got my car torn apart. If you wish, I'll test the sensor's resistance, and gauge the thread size...
PS -- the sensor itself is GM part number 24507190 -- that includes the seal, if you want to go that route. Might be $30 bucks or so...
PS -- the sensor itself is GM part number 24507190 -- that includes the seal, if you want to go that route. Might be $30 bucks or so...
Originally Posted by Alex94TAGT
If you can wait until this evening, I've got my car torn apart. If you wish, I'll test the sensor's resistance, and gauge the thread size...
PS -- the sensor itself is GM part number 24507190 -- that includes the seal, if you want to go that route. Might be $30 bucks or so...
PS -- the sensor itself is GM part number 24507190 -- that includes the seal, if you want to go that route. Might be $30 bucks or so...
thanks!
Originally Posted by atljar
No resistance, hence what i said above, wire it together.
only thing i have is the cluster, im just looking to find the correct resistance to turn the light off.
all i have is a brown wire off the back of the cluster.
TECH Apprentice
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 384
Likes: 0
TJ -- I think Atljar is right. I tested with the sensor both in and out of the oil pan (with proper oil level). It seems to work in reverse. There's just a cylindrical float in there, and so long as the oil level is ok, you'll have zero resistance (or very, very close to it. I got zero resistance with the sensor in the pan w/ oil, but about .1-.5 ohms with the sensor removed and cleaned). Otherwise, if you're low on oil, the float will drop, giving you infinite resistance.
***Soo, I think your problem lies elsewhere. I noticed that the electrical connector has TWO brown wires, not one. I think this might be your problem -- you're missing the other half of the brown wiring, so you were never really 'grounding' anything out. Try digging around in there -- the brown wires tie back into that main wiring harness bundle going behind the intake manifold and back towards the PCM. Once you find the other half of the brown wire, just splice the two of them together -- I think you'd then be set to go.
Bartman: After measuring, the sensor's threads are roughly 3/4" in diameter, 3/8" deep (pretty shallow), with 16 threads per inch. You don't need it very deep at all. Hope that helps...
***Soo, I think your problem lies elsewhere. I noticed that the electrical connector has TWO brown wires, not one. I think this might be your problem -- you're missing the other half of the brown wiring, so you were never really 'grounding' anything out. Try digging around in there -- the brown wires tie back into that main wiring harness bundle going behind the intake manifold and back towards the PCM. Once you find the other half of the brown wire, just splice the two of them together -- I think you'd then be set to go.
Bartman: After measuring, the sensor's threads are roughly 3/4" in diameter, 3/8" deep (pretty shallow), with 16 threads per inch. You don't need it very deep at all. Hope that helps...
Last edited by Alex94TAGT; Mar 29, 2005 at 09:05 PM.
Originally Posted by Alex94TAGT
TJ -- I think Atljar is right. I tested with the sensor both in and out of the oil pan (with proper oil level). It seems to work in reverse. There's just a cylindrical float in there, and so long as the oil level is ok, you'll have zero resistance (or very, very close to it. I got zero resistance with the sensor in the pan w/ oil, but about .1-.5 ohms with the sensor removed and cleaned). Otherwise, if you're low on oil, the float will drop, giving you infinite resistance.
***Soo, I think your problem lies elsewhere. I noticed that the electrical connector has TWO brown wires, not one. I think this might be your problem -- you're missing the other half of the brown wiring, so you were never really 'grounding' anything out. Try digging around in there -- the brown wires tie back into that main wiring harness bundle going behind the intake manifold and back towards the PCM. Once you find the other half of the brown wire, just splice the two of them together -- I think you'd then be set to go.
Bartman: After measuring, the sensor's threads are roughly 3/4" in diameter, 3/8" deep (pretty shallow), with 16 threads per inch. You don't need it very deep at all. Hope that helps...
***Soo, I think your problem lies elsewhere. I noticed that the electrical connector has TWO brown wires, not one. I think this might be your problem -- you're missing the other half of the brown wiring, so you were never really 'grounding' anything out. Try digging around in there -- the brown wires tie back into that main wiring harness bundle going behind the intake manifold and back towards the PCM. Once you find the other half of the brown wire, just splice the two of them together -- I think you'd then be set to go.
Bartman: After measuring, the sensor's threads are roughly 3/4" in diameter, 3/8" deep (pretty shallow), with 16 threads per inch. You don't need it very deep at all. Hope that helps...
im using a 97 cluster in my 88 camaro, and only have a single brown wire commming off the back of the instrument cluster. there is no second wire anywhere. im missing pieces of the equation.
i did manage to get the ABS light out with a resistor, so ive made some progress over nothing.
one light on wont kill me. the rest of the interior overcomes it.
Originally Posted by Alex94TAGT
D'oh. Sorry. I kan't reed...
I'll try to look over the wiring diagrams, but I just don't know much about 3rd gens -- have you found anyone else that has done this type of modification to your model?
I'll try to look over the wiring diagrams, but I just don't know much about 3rd gens -- have you found anyone else that has done this type of modification to your model?
a lot of 93-96 firebird guys swap in the 97 camaro cluster becuase it looks cleaner, and even their low oil light comes on... its something specific to the cluster apparently....
i wish i had 2 wires to twist together.
thanks