Bad Limiter Like Hesitation
Getting a hesitation like hitting a limiter, feels like it dies until get thru it's rpm range of hesitation which would be around 2500 to 3k and even then it doesn't feel like it's as powerful going beyond 3k, still seem like something is happening, i've changed out my spark plug wires i thought it was good to go. until it just came back again, and i noticed sometimes it's there other times it's not but for the most part it's there. i'm going to be doing my spark plugs and fuel filter next see if that helps. even try'd messing with my tune with spark, but it just moved it higher in the rpm range.. but whats weird is its at the same spot everytime.. and my intake monifold gaskets are new also. i was thinking maybe my MAF has gone bad or something. but it happens on all loads just the more you accellerate the faster it goes thru the hesitation,, but still being pressent..
update:
well i deleted the MAF and did a MAFLess Tune problem still exist, it pretty much seem to be just the entire power band. more noticable in other areas. so changed my oil and put new spark plugs in.. car felt better and had more power, needed a spark plug change badly, but problem still exist... I'm not throwing an codes Either. now i'm thinking some in the tune but nothing was ever changed and it just suddenly happened, next i'm thinking i have no clue. CAM sensor maybe? good thing is i have 2 extra to try out. but the time and lace i dont. what to do. Somtimes it picks up and wants to go then just falls in to like if my timing was extremely off
1. Ran Redline fuel injector cleaner (nothing)
2.Replaced PCV valve (didn't do anything)
3.Replaced gas filter (nothing)
4.Replaced spark plugs with NGKs (nothing). I had a whiteish looking powder on the old ones.
Checked wires for resistance, they were all close to one another (320k ohms)
5.cleaned MAF screen (nothing)
6.I finally broke down and brought it to a dealer. They updated the PCM with two newer updates and replaced 2 of my O2 sensors ($150 each + $200 in labor). This seemed to work but the hesitation is back (only days later). I checked the throttle position sensor for resisitance and the needle moved smoothly (no sudden jumps or falls) although maybe this is it intermittingly???
I'm going to bring it back to the dealer but would like some ideas from you guys.
Thanks
Shawn
1999 WS6, upgraded airbox (clear lexan), K&N, BMR strut tower brace... turbo in the future
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Last edited by greatskiiiier; Jul 1, 2005 at 02:32 PM.
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I would bet it is electrical.
So Far I've :
Changed Spark Plug Wires. (MSD SC) Cars Smoother (but No change)
Changed Spark Plugs. (NGK TR5s) Again cars Smoother (but No Change)
ReEdited It. (LS1 Edit) older working tune car ran even worse (changed back)
[b]Disconnected MAF.[/]b (No Change)
ReTuned It. Really OLD Tune, Basicly Stock, Ran Better through daily driving RPM ranges (Changes - Hesitates and stubles in higher RPM range and at idle)
Changed Fuel Filter. (no change)
Tuned Again. To My MAFless GMWorldCUPcam Tune. (little more power, but same results as (ReTuned It), so no change
Welded up a hole for my back o2 sensor that stripped out. helped take off( no change)
tuned again areas i though might need richening, car stubled badly like if it wasn't getting any fuel. Tuned back
.....................................
Next:
Secondary inline Fuel pump Assistance
if not the the fuel pump
Cam Sensor
then
All new Valvetrain
if not that
Driving it off a cliff
Last fall, what you describe above was happening to me. Hesitation basically. Well, 2 weeks later a valve spring broke, dropped a valve and took out my motor.
Thus why I'm on a new motor ( see sig ).
So from my perspective, quit driving it and pull the valve covers and check the seat pressure on your springs.
Or, keep driving it and wait till she breaks.
Sorry to hear about your motor.
My valve springs come in today.





