these TA pop-up headlights suck!! Heeeeelp!!!
#41
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The headlight control modules are sealed in plastic and are not servicable. I think the load circuit is probably built into the module.
Linear actuators are extremely universal. They can basically automate the movement of just about anything. They use them in convertible tops and a lot of other car stuff as well as in non auto related things. Have you ever seen a car stereo that had movable panels or racks that lifted by remote control? They use linear actuators. I know very little about them, but high end stereo shops should carry small actuators. The bigger and stronger they are the more they cost. You'll need to try a general search as I don't know much about them. I do know that they would be a snap to install under the lights. There is a lot of room under them.
Linear actuators are extremely universal. They can basically automate the movement of just about anything. They use them in convertible tops and a lot of other car stuff as well as in non auto related things. Have you ever seen a car stereo that had movable panels or racks that lifted by remote control? They use linear actuators. I know very little about them, but high end stereo shops should carry small actuators. The bigger and stronger they are the more they cost. You'll need to try a general search as I don't know much about them. I do know that they would be a snap to install under the lights. There is a lot of room under them.
#42
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Has anyone ever heard of this problem on Vettes? What if you use Vette headlight motors? I installed the brass gear 2 months ago, and just an hour ago, it's stripped again.
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damn i didnt know my thread is still up! Im getting a set of NEW brass gears installed (2nd set).. hopefully it will get my problem solved.
Im not doing the work but a good friend of mine is. Ill keep you guys updated with my findings.
Im not doing the work but a good friend of mine is. Ill keep you guys updated with my findings.
#44
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I just ran across something wierd and strange. It's a company that can make polyurethane gears.
I wonder if we could just send them a plastic gear and they make one of a fairly hard compound urethane? Skipping a tooth sounds better than stripping a tooth. This is a new concept to me, but you can check out their webpage if you want.
http://www.urethane.net/
![](http://www.urethane.net/30030.jpg)
Advanced Urethane Solutions, Inc. can provide you with low-cost gears made of cast urethane. Gears made of urethane provide for reduced noise and reduced downtime on equipment. If the machine jams, the urethane gear can skip a tooth without breaking the gear or the drive train. Gears made of urethane also perform in severe environments where metal or plastic gears will not survive.
Urethane gears are elastomeric to prevent breakage in most applications. We can color code your urethane gears to allow for easy gear matches. Urethane can be bonded to metal or plastic inserts and produced in many hardnesses.
Urethane gears are elastomeric to prevent breakage in most applications. We can color code your urethane gears to allow for easy gear matches. Urethane can be bonded to metal or plastic inserts and produced in many hardnesses.
http://www.urethane.net/
#45
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When I had my gear problem and the motors wouldn't shut off like they should, I swapped the module from another TA. One that I had seen work and wasn't binding the gears or motors. I swapped it to my car and there was no change. The motor was still not shutting off when it should. So for most folks, I doubt it is the module. If you want to try it out, ask a buddy to use his. 2 plugs and a plastic clip and the whole thing slides out in like 30 seconds. It's an easy thing to check.[/QUOTE]
Could someone please tell me where the Headlight Control Module is Located on a 99' T/A. I've looked all over, but can't locate it.
Thanks,
Aaron
Could someone please tell me where the Headlight Control Module is Located on a 99' T/A. I've looked all over, but can't locate it.
Thanks,
Aaron
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i found out my problem was after i installed the brass gears, the gears kept backing up and throwing the headlight motor cover off... i guess the glue or rather epoxy wasnt good enough
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Originally Posted by 2002_TAWS6
i guess the glue or rather epoxy wasnt good enough
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BTW, the gears don't really back up, it's just that the motor continues to apply power after it should have shut off. It forces the gears together and eventually something has to give. It's usually the glued on cover.
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i gave up on using glue after the 2nd cover fell off... what sucks even more is that u cant buy the cover alone but instead need to purchase a new motor with a plastic gear again
.. I decided its time to solve the problem rather than repeat it again and again over time...
So.. this time i got a friend to custom fabricate a bracket to hold the gear in place. So far you could call it a quick ghetto mod as im testing its effectiveness. If it works for 3 or 4 months, then ill have him custom fabricate a much better bracket with good clips that do a better job and also keep the dirt out (unlike mine as of this particular moment).
Im not expecting any dirt to cause any problems right now.. the bracket i now temporarly have (aluminum) should cover most of the dirt but not all of it. Hopefully that wouldnt introduce another problem in the future.
![Bang Head](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_banghead.gif)
So.. this time i got a friend to custom fabricate a bracket to hold the gear in place. So far you could call it a quick ghetto mod as im testing its effectiveness. If it works for 3 or 4 months, then ill have him custom fabricate a much better bracket with good clips that do a better job and also keep the dirt out (unlike mine as of this particular moment).
Im not expecting any dirt to cause any problems right now.. the bracket i now temporarly have (aluminum) should cover most of the dirt but not all of it. Hopefully that wouldnt introduce another problem in the future.
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I turned my stock gear 180 degrees, and it was good for about a month. Now I have a custom trick where when I turn the switch, I immediately help the light come up, therefore no grind. It does suck because sometimes I buckle up, and forget the headlight isnt up, but I got frustrated turning the gear the first time lol.
#51
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2002_TAWS6, I don't think you understand. The root problem has to do with the motor staying on longer than it should. If you want to fix it proper you have to replace the whole unit. Making a stronger cover is like a bandaid on a bullet. It may stop the bleeding, but it doesn't fix the root cause. The only way to prevent the motor from running too long is to replace it. When I replaced mine I noticed the motor no longer tried to continue running. This means no extra stress on the gears.
Still, your stronger cover my last a very long time. You are basically moving the stress to the next weakest link and I don't know what it would be. Maybe the whole housing will crack? I don't know. Go for it.
Still, your stronger cover my last a very long time. You are basically moving the stress to the next weakest link and I don't know what it would be. Maybe the whole housing will crack? I don't know. Go for it.
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JasonWW, thanks for clearing things up. ![Cheers!!](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_cheers.gif)
It would be hard for me to imagine the whole housing to break but if it does then at least then ill be convinced its time to buy a new motor (if it works the way it is now im happy
). I totally agree with you on the fact that the motor running longer than it should is the root of the problem. So here's the big question: Any idea why the motor runs more than it should over time? Now that you mentioned a new motor did not continue on running, what causes the motor to eventually keep running more than it should in the future? ...
I mean if you think about it, first the motor goes bad and we find out the gears are stripped. Then we chose to turn them 180 degrees or replace them with stronger gears. Then the cover starting falling off if u chose stronger gears. Then you purchase a new motor and go thru everything once more again and again and again
I tried escaping the problem by ending it by making a stronger cover as I started on a ground basis of overly depending on the brass gears as "the fix". Only time will tell what the next weakest link would be (hopefully it wont be a nasty experience).
Its a shame that this headlight motor conversations always end up with the same lasting comment:
What a piece of **** job GM did on those motors!
![Cheers!!](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_cheers.gif)
It would be hard for me to imagine the whole housing to break but if it does then at least then ill be convinced its time to buy a new motor (if it works the way it is now im happy
![Happy](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_stretch.gif)
I mean if you think about it, first the motor goes bad and we find out the gears are stripped. Then we chose to turn them 180 degrees or replace them with stronger gears. Then the cover starting falling off if u chose stronger gears. Then you purchase a new motor and go thru everything once more again and again and again
![Bang Head](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_banghead.gif)
I tried escaping the problem by ending it by making a stronger cover as I started on a ground basis of overly depending on the brass gears as "the fix". Only time will tell what the next weakest link would be (hopefully it wont be a nasty experience).
Its a shame that this headlight motor conversations always end up with the same lasting comment:
What a piece of **** job GM did on those motors!
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I'm having problems with my headlight too, it's stuck about halfway won't go up or down and the thing just seems to be spinning for a while, I guess it's the gear, but is there anyway to get it down just so that it doesn't look bad until I fix it?
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Originally Posted by badboyracingws6
I'm having problems with my headlight too, it's stuck about halfway won't go up or down and the thing just seems to be spinning for a while, I guess it's the gear, but is there anyway to get it down just so that it doesn't look bad until I fix it?
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Originally Posted by MattIROC
Pull the rubber boot off, and you can turn it manually up and down. Cant miss it, its right above the motor.
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I just replaced the driver's side gear today, and what a surprise I had in store. I bought my car used, and a few weeks after I got it the driver's side light started giving me trouble; getting stuck up, making noises, etc. So I ordered a couple of brass gear kits, and finally got around to at least fixing up the broken side today since the time change happens tonight and it's gonna be dark when I get off work every day from now on. Anyway, I get the drivers side motor out(after a trip to harbor freight for a couple of extra 10 mil wrenches) and to my surprise, there's glue oozing out from the sides of the gear housing. Looked like it had been apart before, and when I got it apart...there was a stripped brass gear inside. Looked like a loose motor killed the gear...and the schmuck that installed it didn't use ANY grease on it at all. Damn thing was dry. Needless to say, the new brass gear got a generous amount of grease, and the motor tabs were squeezed down with a pair of channel locks. Motor's going back in tomorrow, hopefully it won't be near as much of a pain in the *** putting it back.
Anyway, here's a few pics of the stripped gear for your viewing pleasure:
![](http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y209/federalbeerinspector/gears002.jpg)
![](http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y209/federalbeerinspector/gears003.jpg)
Anyway, here's a few pics of the stripped gear for your viewing pleasure:
![](http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y209/federalbeerinspector/gears002.jpg)
![](http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y209/federalbeerinspector/gears003.jpg)
![](http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y209/federalbeerinspector/gears004.jpg)