JasonWW

iTrader: (2)

The headlight control modules are sealed in plastic and are not servicable. I think the load circuit is probably built into the module.

Linear actuators are extremely universal. They can basically automate the movement of just about anything. They use them in convertible tops and a lot of other car stuff as well as in non auto related things. Have you ever seen a car stereo that had movable panels or racks that lifted by remote control? They use linear actuators. I know very little about them, but high end stereo shops should carry small actuators. The bigger and stronger they are the more they cost. You'll need to try a general search as I don't know much about them. I do know that they would be a snap to install under the lights. There is a lot of room under them.

BLOODTA

iTrader: (19)

Has anyone ever heard of this problem on Vettes? What if you use Vette headlight motors? I installed the brass gear 2 months ago, and just an hour ago, it's stripped again.

2002_TAWS6

damn i didnt know my thread is still up! Im getting a set of NEW brass gears installed (2nd set).. hopefully it will get my problem solved.

Im not doing the work but a good friend of mine is. Ill keep you guys updated with my findings.

JasonWW

iTrader: (2)

I just ran across something wierd and strange. It's a company that can make polyurethane gears.



I wonder if we could just send them a plastic gear and they make one of a fairly hard compound urethane? Skipping a tooth sounds better than stripping a tooth. This is a new concept to me, but you can check out their webpage if you want.
http://www.urethane.net/

Aaron Z

When I had my gear problem and the motors wouldn't shut off like they should, I swapped the module from another TA. One that I had seen work and wasn't binding the gears or motors. I swapped it to my car and there was no change. The motor was still not shutting off when it should. So for most folks, I doubt it is the module. If you want to try it out, ask a buddy to use his. 2 plugs and a plastic clip and the whole thing slides out in like 30 seconds. It's an easy thing to check.[/QUOTE]


Could someone please tell me where the Headlight Control Module is Located on a 99' T/A. I've looked all over, but can't locate it.

Thanks,

Aaron

JasonWW

iTrader: (2)

Oh, that's a qoute from me. I didn't even recognize it. I was about to say "Me too".

Anyway, it's between the ABS block and the fuse blocks, behind the drivers side headlight.

Here you go.

2002_TAWS6

i found out my problem was after i installed the brass gears, the gears kept backing up and throwing the headlight motor cover off... i guess the glue or rather epoxy wasnt good enough

JasonWW

iTrader: (2)

That happened to me as well. Best thing I found was Crazy Glue. I put it in between the cover and housing and then ran extra around the seem and let it set for several hours to make sure it was at full strength. Even then it wasn't permanent. I would have to redo it every 3-4 months.

BTW, the gears don't really back up, it's just that the motor continues to apply power after it should have shut off. It forces the gears together and eventually something has to give. It's usually the glued on cover.

2002_TAWS6

i gave up on using glue after the 2nd cover fell off... what sucks even more is that u cant buy the cover alone but instead need to purchase a new motor with a plastic gear again .. I decided its time to solve the problem rather than repeat it again and again over time...

So.. this time i got a friend to custom fabricate a bracket to hold the gear in place. So far you could call it a quick ghetto mod as im testing its effectiveness. If it works for 3 or 4 months, then ill have him custom fabricate a much better bracket with good clips that do a better job and also keep the dirt out (unlike mine as of this particular moment).

Im not expecting any dirt to cause any problems right now.. the bracket i now temporarly have (aluminum) should cover most of the dirt but not all of it. Hopefully that wouldnt introduce another problem in the future.

MattIROC

iTrader: (19)

I turned my stock gear 180 degrees, and it was good for about a month. Now I have a custom trick where when I turn the switch, I immediately help the light come up, therefore no grind. It does suck because sometimes I buckle up, and forget the headlight isnt up, but I got frustrated turning the gear the first time lol.

JasonWW

iTrader: (2)

2002_TAWS6, I don't think you understand. The root problem has to do with the motor staying on longer than it should. If you want to fix it proper you have to replace the whole unit. Making a stronger cover is like a bandaid on a bullet. It may stop the bleeding, but it doesn't fix the root cause. The only way to prevent the motor from running too long is to replace it. When I replaced mine I noticed the motor no longer tried to continue running. This means no extra stress on the gears.

Still, your stronger cover my last a very long time. You are basically moving the stress to the next weakest link and I don't know what it would be. Maybe the whole housing will crack? I don't know. Go for it.

2002_TAWS6

JasonWW, thanks for clearing things up.

It would be hard for me to imagine the whole housing to break but if it does then at least then ill be convinced its time to buy a new motor (if it works the way it is now im happy ). I totally agree with you on the fact that the motor running longer than it should is the root of the problem. So here's the big question: Any idea why the motor runs more than it should over time? Now that you mentioned a new motor did not continue on running, what causes the motor to eventually keep running more than it should in the future? ...

I mean if you think about it, first the motor goes bad and we find out the gears are stripped. Then we chose to turn them 180 degrees or replace them with stronger gears. Then the cover starting falling off if u chose stronger gears. Then you purchase a new motor and go thru everything once more again and again and again

I tried escaping the problem by ending it by making a stronger cover as I started on a ground basis of overly depending on the brass gears as "the fix". Only time will tell what the next weakest link would be (hopefully it wont be a nasty experience).

Its a shame that this headlight motor conversations always end up with the same lasting comment:

What a piece of **** job GM did on those motors!

badboyracingws6

iTrader: (9)

I'm having problems with my headlight too, it's stuck about halfway won't go up or down and the thing just seems to be spinning for a while, I guess it's the gear, but is there anyway to get it down just so that it doesn't look bad until I fix it?

MattIROC

iTrader: (19)

Pull the rubber boot off, and you can turn it manually up and down. Cant miss it, its right above the motor.

badboyracingws6

iTrader: (9)

Thanks that worked, I noticed that the arm is hitting a screw towards the back, I doubt thats the reason it did that but maybe that's what messed up the gear?

taintedmeat

iTrader: (1)

I just replaced the driver's side gear today, and what a surprise I had in store. I bought my car used, and a few weeks after I got it the driver's side light started giving me trouble; getting stuck up, making noises, etc. So I ordered a couple of brass gear kits, and finally got around to at least fixing up the broken side today since the time change happens tonight and it's gonna be dark when I get off work every day from now on. Anyway, I get the drivers side motor out(after a trip to harbor freight for a couple of extra 10 mil wrenches) and to my surprise, there's glue oozing out from the sides of the gear housing. Looked like it had been apart before, and when I got it apart...there was a stripped brass gear inside. Looked like a loose motor killed the gear...and the schmuck that installed it didn't use ANY grease on it at all. Damn thing was dry. Needless to say, the new brass gear got a generous amount of grease, and the motor tabs were squeezed down with a pair of channel locks. Motor's going back in tomorrow, hopefully it won't be near as much of a pain in the *** putting it back.

Anyway, here's a few pics of the stripped gear for your viewing pleasure:

Aaron Z

Thanks! JasonWW, My Dealership Must Have Given me the wrong part. The one I purchased looks nothing like this and the plugs are square.