Car running unusually hot
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From: Granada Hills, CA
Car running unusually hot For the last several weeks the car has been running unusually hot. The stock temp gauge doesnt move very much (big surprise) but the cooling fans are on constantly, even during 40-50 degree ambient temps. Theyll (the fans) sometimes continue to run when the car is turned off for a minute or two. Occassionally the temp gauge will move off the "normal" reading and inch over passed 210 after full throttle applications. Plus the car feels real sluggish once it reaches operating temps according to the gauge. Itll have a good amount more punch when its passing the 180 mark on the way up to 210. I could never feel a difference in the past, so im assuming the car is running much hotter than the gauge leads on to be sapping power noticeably. And without my laptop my Auto-Tap is useless.
I checked the radiator and it appears to be free of any debris. What would be a good place to start to check? Change the coolant? Could the thermostat be stuck closed? Thanks in advance for any advice
I checked the radiator and it appears to be free of any debris. What would be a good place to start to check? Change the coolant? Could the thermostat be stuck closed? Thanks in advance for any advice
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From: Live Oak, FL - in the woods where the creatures lurk.
Originally Posted by 00CaliforniaZ28
For the last several weeks the car has been running unusually hot. The stock temp gauge doesnt move very much (big surprise) but the cooling fans are on constantly, even during 40-50 degree ambient temps. Theyll (the fans) sometimes continue to run when the car is turned off for a minute or two. Occassionally the temp gauge will move off the "normal" reading and inch over passed 210 after full throttle applications. Plus the car feels real sluggish once it reaches operating temps according to the gauge. Itll have a good amount more punch when its passing the 180 mark on the way up to 210. I could never feel a difference in the past, so im assuming the car is running much hotter than the gauge leads on to be sapping power noticeably. And without my laptop my Auto-Tap is useless.
I checked the radiator and it appears to be free of any debris. What would be a good place to start to check? Change the coolant? Could the thermostat be stuck closed? Thanks in advance for any advice
I checked the radiator and it appears to be free of any debris. What would be a good place to start to check? Change the coolant? Could the thermostat be stuck closed? Thanks in advance for any advice
since you have ATAP, if possible to see what the ECT/other sensors read.
If not possible I would replace the ECT sensor.
The pcm DOES make some changes based on what the
ECT output is.
BTW, I have never had my fans run after shutting the
engine down, although there might be a provision for
doing so if the ECT reads high enough? Dunno on that one.
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From: Live Oak, FL - in the woods where the creatures lurk.
I re-read your post. If you decide to replace the ECT
sensor, this would be a good time to flush/refill coolant
system. At the last drain interval, disconnect the hose
from the Tstat housing, remove the Tstat, that should
allow the coolant to drain from the heads, good time to
replace the ECT sensor. It's located next to the #1 plug.
HTH,
gwj
sensor, this would be a good time to flush/refill coolant
system. At the last drain interval, disconnect the hose
from the Tstat housing, remove the Tstat, that should
allow the coolant to drain from the heads, good time to
replace the ECT sensor. It's located next to the #1 plug.
HTH,
gwj
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From: Granada Hills, CA
Thanks, ill be sure to take a look into that. I guess I can pull the car into the garage and just bring my PC down there to run ATAP on. Is there a website to DL the software? No idea where the CD is at the moment, and the laptop it was on is trash.
I forgot to mention that I have got out of the car a few times only to hear the coolant (I assume) boiling, so its definately a real problem and not a gauge issue. I actually had this problem over the summer, but it cleared up when the temps came down, so I thought it was just the hot weather. But now its back in the winter, so I guess ambient temps can be ruled out. If I can find the software, Ill try to get a reading as to what the temp actually is. Thanks again for the reply, though!
I forgot to mention that I have got out of the car a few times only to hear the coolant (I assume) boiling, so its definately a real problem and not a gauge issue. I actually had this problem over the summer, but it cleared up when the temps came down, so I thought it was just the hot weather. But now its back in the winter, so I guess ambient temps can be ruled out. If I can find the software, Ill try to get a reading as to what the temp actually is. Thanks again for the reply, though!
Staging Lane
Joined: Jan 2006
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From: kyle texas
I had a similiar problem like that. My car would show hot 210-240 degrees on the temp. gauge. My electric fans would also continue to run after the engine was turned off. I drained and flushed the radiator also replaced the thermostat. I spent $28 on the new stat and new coolant and fixed the problem.
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Joined: Sep 2005
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From: Springfield, Missouri
is your heater working good? are you radiator hoses cool or hot? you might have a blocked heater core or debrie in there. jiffy lube will do a power flush for about 70-80 bucks yes it sucks but it pulls so much stuff out that you can't get w/ just the flush at the autoparts store. post back when you fix your problem. and i work at the autozone down here and i orded a 160* for i think 26ish somthing like that. so if you want to change your T-stat then i would look into that.
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From: Granada Hills, CA
Yeah, the heater still works fine. The AC isnt as cold as it normally is, however. Still havent got ATAP on it, so itll most likely be a weekend project. Ill go ahead and do a coolant change and then go from there if it persists. Thanks for the ideas though, fellas, and Ill report back with the end result.
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To give you an idea of how hot its getting, on a stock pcm the high fan kicks on at 234 degrees and if the fans stay on once the ingnition is turned off its reached 235* or above.
thermostat could be stuck, water pump could be bad. coolant could be trashed, radiator clogged ect, low on coolant ect.
thermostat could be stuck, water pump could be bad. coolant could be trashed, radiator clogged ect, low on coolant ect.
Staging Lane
Joined: Jan 2006
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From: kyle texas
Bro, be systematic with your troubleshooting. You already changed the thermostat and still have problems. Make sure that the radiator is clean, wash it down no debri. Make sure you used the right coolant mixture sometimes the coolant comes already mixed not concentrated so if you add water to an already mixed coolant you will lower the boiling temp of the coolant so make sure you have the right mixture. Make sure the fans are coming on. Then dont assume that the new thermostat is good sometimes they suck right out of the box!! Just be patient and systematic you will figure it out.