A/C Compressor gone, can i use a used compressor?
if the compressor interna; parts rust and seize the compressor, it is useless. if the compressor is not seized and pretty cheap, i'd give it a try. i belive the money you save will be worth risking it on a used, but not seized, compressor. see if you can find a filter to keep in the compressor's outlet line to prevent damage to the rest of the system from the failed compressor or the replacement ont if it takes a dump
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I vote for a new one too..moisture reacts chemically with refrigerant to form acids...this will obviously corrode all components of the system. It doesent take much moisture either...moisture concentrations of 20 PPM can cause serious damage to the system.
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if he has his compressor off there is obviously no refrigerant in the system anymore, i'd go to the junkyard and get one from a vehicle that still has the lines still attached to the compressor, cause like mentioned above you still have to vaccum the system and recharge it with oil and refrigerant so it should be fine.
also there is already a filter in the system already you don't add one
what do you think the reciever dryer or accumlator's job is?
also freon is duponts nick name for r-12
and more then 3% contamination in the system causes problems
also there is already a filter in the system already you don't add one
what do you think the reciever dryer or accumlator's job is?
also freon is duponts nick name for r-12
and more then 3% contamination in the system causes problems
to remove moisture and/or store liquid refrigerant so that the compressor only gets refrigerant in a gaseous state. it has nothing to do with filtering. ask your A/C teacher. 
like travis said, moisture does cause acids to form when it reacts with refrigerant(thats what i was refering to when i was talking about the compressor seizing up), but like i said, IMHO, its still worth the risk if you can find a non-seized compressor for cheap enough. most salvage yards evacuate the system when they dismantle cars, so there should be no refrigerant for the moisture to react with. i personally think the hundreds of dollars you stand to save would be worth the risk.
like travis said, moisture does cause acids to form when it reacts with refrigerant(thats what i was refering to when i was talking about the compressor seizing up), but like i said, IMHO, its still worth the risk if you can find a non-seized compressor for cheap enough. most salvage yards evacuate the system when they dismantle cars, so there should be no refrigerant for the moisture to react with. i personally think the hundreds of dollars you stand to save would be worth the risk.
Originally Posted by slowpoke96z28
to remove moisture and/or store liquid refrigerant so that the compressor only gets refrigerant in a gaseous state. it has nothing to do with filtering. ask your A/C teacher.
like travis said, moisture does cause acids to form when it reacts with refrigerant(thats what i was refering to when i was talking about the compressor seizing up), but like i said, IMHO, its still worth the risk if you can find a non-seized compressor for cheap enough. most salvage yards evacuate the system when they dismantle cars, so there should be no refrigerant for the moisture to react with. i personally think the hundreds of dollars you stand to save would be worth the risk.
like travis said, moisture does cause acids to form when it reacts with refrigerant(thats what i was refering to when i was talking about the compressor seizing up), but like i said, IMHO, its still worth the risk if you can find a non-seized compressor for cheap enough. most salvage yards evacuate the system when they dismantle cars, so there should be no refrigerant for the moisture to react with. i personally think the hundreds of dollars you stand to save would be worth the risk.
whats the desicant bag in there for
and imagine, some poor sap is actually gonna pay good money for you to work on their car. do a google search on the word 'dessicant' and tell us what you learn. after that re-read the first sentence in my post you quoted. then tell your school you want a refund for your A/C class fees.
yea...what i meant before was just dont go buy a used compressor, throw it on there, than go to walmart and buy a couple of cans of R134 and charge the system...Like slowpoke said...I would probably risk the used compressor myself if i could save hundreds of dollars, i would just make sure everything is done right (pulling a vacuum low enough to boil any moisture at ambient temperature, etc...)
i killed a used compressor in months, revved the car up one day with the AC on and it blew a rod through the compressor housing, i wish i had pics of that. it blew a line of refrigerant and oil all the way down the street.
most likely a compressor that was on the way out, everything else was done right though. now i have a new compressor and it is getting no power, its been like that for months and i heard all the seals and stuff are probably f'ed from the system not being active the whole winter.
most likely a compressor that was on the way out, everything else was done right though. now i have a new compressor and it is getting no power, its been like that for months and i heard all the seals and stuff are probably f'ed from the system not being active the whole winter.
Originally Posted by slowpoke96z28
if the compressor interna; parts rust and seize the compressor, it is useless. if the compressor is not seized and pretty cheap, i'd give it a try. i belive the money you save will be worth risking it on a used, but not seized, compressor. see if you can find a filter to keep in the compressor's outlet line to prevent damage to the rest of the system from the failed compressor or the replacement ont if it takes a dump
Do you know of any filter that would fit? The way the fitting is on the back of the compressor I don't know of a part that would work offhand. I know the compressor has a filter on the inlet. There is not really any space for a filter element to rest on when looking at the outlet.
Real Freon can still obviously be purchased if you know how. However, I have heard that the real reason for the switch was to protect the market due to a patent's lifespan. The actual difference in performance is not supposed to be revolutionary so real Freon is probably not worth the purchase price.
I don't know if traces of water vapor in the AC system, lets say you didn't vacumm... or it was so humid that water vapor was left even if vacumned... would be enough to corrode the system in a short period of time. (Year maybe?) Would this water vapor remain as water vapor or be absorbed into the mixture???
I am sure it would have a severe effect on the compressibility of the refrigerant and at what T/P it changes state leading to reduced system performance.
r-12 is expensive and not just anyone can buy it. R134a can remove more btu's per hour then r12. the switch to a diff refrigerant is because r12 is harmful to the ozone. r12 has chlorine in it which destroys the ozone.
temperatures on the discharge side get pretty hot but maybe you could put a filter on that side IDK tho
temperatures on the discharge side get pretty hot but maybe you could put a filter on that side IDK tho
Originally Posted by 2002_Z28_Six_Speed
Do you know of any filter that would fit? The way the fitting is on the back of the compressor I don't know of a part that would work offhand. I know the compressor has a filter on the inlet. There is not really any space for a filter element to rest on when looking at the outlet.
Real Freon can still obviously be purchased if you know how. However, I have heard that the real reason for the switch was to protect the market due to a patent's lifespan. The actual difference in performance is not supposed to be revolutionary so real Freon is probably not worth the purchase price.
I don't know if traces of water vapor in the AC system, lets say you didn't vacumm... or it was so humid that water vapor was left even if vacumned... would be enough to corrode the system in a short period of time. (Year maybe?) Would this water vapor remain as water vapor or be absorbed into the mixture???
I am sure it would have a severe effect on the compressibility of the refrigerant and at what T/P it changes state leading to reduced system performance.
Real Freon can still obviously be purchased if you know how. However, I have heard that the real reason for the switch was to protect the market due to a patent's lifespan. The actual difference in performance is not supposed to be revolutionary so real Freon is probably not worth the purchase price.
I don't know if traces of water vapor in the AC system, lets say you didn't vacumm... or it was so humid that water vapor was left even if vacumned... would be enough to corrode the system in a short period of time. (Year maybe?) Would this water vapor remain as water vapor or be absorbed into the mixture???
I am sure it would have a severe effect on the compressibility of the refrigerant and at what T/P it changes state leading to reduced system performance.
yes...even the smallest amount of moisture in the system can cause major problems. 20 Parts Per Million of moisture in the system can cause a metering device to freeze. Not to mention as already stated before, moisture reacts chemically with refrigerant to form acids. The heat generated in the system will speed up the acid forming process. They do have filters you can add, usually to the liquid line and the suction line, which is usually recommended after a compressor failure.