komik

iTrader: (7)

When I first got my T/A (9 Months ago) the brakes weren't as firm as I though they should be. I replaced all the brake pads, but didn't loosen the bleader valves while compressing the pistons. Afterwards the pedal seemed to go down farther under normal braking. If I accelerated quickly then used the brakes the pedal would go to the floor and barely apply the brakes. If I let off then stepped on it again, the brakes would work a little better. Many people suggested that my master cylinder could be bad. After now replacing that as well, I am still having much the same problem. At the last Autocross I attended, the pedal would sometimes go to the floor and sometimes work okay. Could my brake booster be faulty? Or do I simply have too much air in the lines?

When I replaced the master cylinder, I bled the brakes at all four wheels. However, my repair manual says to start with the rear then front bleader valves on the ABS Modulator, then all four wheels, then the modulator again. The problem with this is, I either don't know what the ABS modulator is, or I can't find the bleader valves on it. In the front left corner of the engine bay (where the manual says the modulator is) is an aluminum box that the brake lines run to from the master cylinder, then to all four wheels. Is this what the manual is referring to? If so, where are the freaking bleader screws?

Flawless02SS

iTrader: (9)

The ABS block wont have bleeder screws, you will just have to crack the lines. Bleed that and then all 4 corners again, starting at the rear pass. then rear driver,pass then driver. That should get you stopping again !!

jkichline

iTrader: (1)

I had a similar problem but it was becuase I had air in my rear lines. I bought two big cans of brake fluid and bled at least 20 pumps of brake pedal for each wheel (starting with the right rear). It sounds like you have air in your system somewhere and its probably in the ABS module part. I heard that can be a pain to bleed properly but I never had to do it.
If you don't have help while you're bleeding the lines, attach a hose to your bleeder screw and make sure that the hose stays submerged in your drain can until you get back to tighten the bleeder. As an added precaution, I'll use a peice of wood to hold the brake pedal down while I go back to tighten the screw.
This happened to me about 5K miles ago. The car now stops better than when I got it in '98.

komik

iTrader: (7)

The last time I bled the brakes, I put the car on jackstands and had someone else work the pedal while I went to each wheel. My problem remains that neither myself nor any of the other mechanics at work can find any bleeder screws on the ABS modulator. I'm going to try bleeding the system at the wheels again and see if it makes any difference. I was just hoping that someone on this site could tell me where those screws are. Maybe my repair manual is ******* with me.

ksuburban

A scan tool is used to cycle the valves in the modulator and that is how it is blead. If you dont have a scan tool then just do a few abs stops. that will cycle the pump. then bleed the brakes at all four cornes. It sounds like you have air in the system. Also bleed the master cyliner at the lines that go into the master