K-Dub379

iTrader: (2)

hey guys
my check engine light came on last night so i took the car to autozone about and hour ago. The code they pulled was saying i have a bad air pump. How hard are they to replace, and how much will it cost. If there are any installation instructions floating around that would be nice too. Thanks
Kevin

2001NBMZ28

P1415 is most likely just a clogged driver's side air check valve - not the pump. Try changing that first, fairly cheap ($16?) and you can do it yourself. The GM PN is 12565503 but you can get one at your local parts store.

K-Dub379

iTrader: (2)

thank you

2001NBMZ28

No problem, I had P1416 (passenger side) replaced the valve and fixed it. SES should clear itself after 3 or 4 cold starts unless you clear it with a programmer, or reset the PCM.

K-Dub379

iTrader: (2)

i haven't tried looking at it yet, but how easy of a fix is it. Can you tell me exactly where it is located too. Thanks
kevin

WANARUNM

iTrader: (5)

My AIR pump went out and I had to change it- really easy to do, 10 - 20 minutes? Had to buy mine from the stealership- before I found this site. You can pick one up here for 15- 20 bucks or so, most guys get them tuned out when they start upgraded these computers.

K-Dub379

iTrader: (2)

i have to work in the morning and i was wonderig if it is ok to drive with a bad air pump. it doesn't seem like it is too serious, but i was just checking to see if it is ok to drive about 20 miles total. thanks
Kevin

jonathan_173

I've got something going on with mine as well. There are about 6 different codes thrown all relating to the air pump. One was a fuse that I found was blown. So I replaced the fuse. Problem solved.... I thought. I went back and noticed it was blown again, so I replaced it and cranked my car and checked it again. IT BLEW WHEN I CRANKED MY CAR!!! Not sure what's going on but I checked the relays and they seem to be ok. Driving without the air pump here in the south is hardly a worry for me since the temp stays above 59F anyways (the temp the air pump kicks in at whenever it's below 59F to warm up the O2 sensors and cats) but it's still an annoyance having my check engine light on. Any ideas as to why I'm blowing fuses whenever I crank my car? It won't blow it until I crank it. Something's drawing too much current. Any ideas? Thanks.

2001NBMZ28

Easy to replace - it's the disc shaped black valve that secrews into the metal air pipe coming off the header/then connects with a clamp to the air hose - right above the #5 cyl coil pack.

It's fine to drive with P1415 til you can get it replaced.

2001NBMZ28

jonathan - yours sounds like a wiring/pump problem. Write down the codes and look them up at www.gearchatter.com

K-Dub379

iTrader: (2)

hey guys
i can't get that valve off, everytime i try to loosen it, the metal pipe moves with it and it seems like if i keep messing with it, that pipe might bend. Sorry if i didn't explain that too well but if anyone has and tips or help on what to do that would be great. Thanks
Kevin

K-Dub379

iTrader: (2)

TTT any suggestions

2001NBMZ28

Disconnect the air hose side and slide the hose off. Then use two wrenches - one to hold the metal pipe steady, the other to unscrew the valve. If it's really tough to get off you can remove the two bolts on the metal pipe at the exhaust manifold and do it off the car.

2001NBMZ28

Oh yeah, there's a gasket under the two bolts - should be fine but if you tear it apart and won't seal when you reinstall it the PN is 12553617 at the dealer and cheap. Also, don't over torque the two bolts, can't remember exactly but they're only like 10 or 15 lb ft...I'll look it up...

Edit: Air Injection Reaction (AIR) Pipe-to-Exhaust Manifold Bolts - 15 lb ft. Had my left side off a couple times changing plugs w/o a problem and never torqued them, just don't want you to break one.

santino04

You guys are goin bout this all wrong haha. Just rip that piece-o-crap out. Tune the codes out.. Friggin thing is useless anyway, helps in lighting off the cats quicker for less startup emissions...Does even function after car is warm. Good Luck!!

2001NBMZ28

True, but the air check valve is cheaper than getting the codes turned off - unless you can get it done free.

WetChicken

iTrader: (1)

When I changed my drivers side check valve, I sprayed it with a little PB Blaster, and let it soak in a for a while. I started with tightening it just enough to get it to move, and it spun right off.
I still have the other side to do, we'll see how that goes.

Also, make sure you have a quality auto parts store. Autozone and the like are good as a tool (heh), but not always for diagnositcs.
I found that the employees at the Robbins store (a regional parts chain) in Concord, NH are knowledgeable and really good about helping find the problem. They read the codes at no charge for me.

Jason

Marc 85Z28

iTrader: (8)

Unbolt the pipe from the manifold. Usually those valves are so badly corroded on they are very difficult to get off. I usually put them in a vise, spray them with PB blaster, and then remove them. Sometimes it requires a special hot wrench

And to the poster above who complained about the AIR pump fuse blowing. The pumps are known for getting moisture in them causing an internal short and blow the fuse. You can narrow down the cause of the short by disconnecting the AIR pump and see if the fuse still blows. Once disconnected, if it doesn't blow, you need a new pump. If it still blows, you'll need to trace the wiring from the pump back.

DemonicZ

I got this code last night, I heard something make a bang or pop sound. My car is a 1998 Z28 bone stock with 130k. I usually get 26-32hwy and 15-20 city. When it happened I had a 1/2 tank. Ive driven about 50-60 miles since then, I'm now at less than 1/8 tank. WTF happened? I don't drive my car hard at all maybe 2000-2750RPMs before it shifts I don't stomp on it or anything. Please HELP I need to fix this ASAP