StylezTA

My coolant level has not been right ever since i did my cam swap. i filled my coolant till i thought the tstat opened, topped it off and let it go... put a lil in the overflow and off i go. well lately the car has been running a lil hotter (has never been completely right). it stats at about 210 and sits there. especially in traffic. I then smell coolant pop the hood, and coolant is pouring out of my overflow. i have NO signs of smoke in the exhaust, milky oil (still clean), and the coolant that does come out is the same color i am putting in. I use dexcool btw. I find that if i drive "normal" it doesn't act up but on a longer pull u can count on it overflowing out of the tank.

now what has me scared is tonite i tried to refill it. I notice that i can ust pop the rad cap off and nothing sprays out at me like my other cars. the rad is low. Start up the car (its hott) and start putting coolant / water in it. It started gysering out of the rad with extreme pressure. after that i kept filling it and eventually it just pushes the coolant out of the system. I HAVE NOTICED NO LEAKS OTHER THEN THE OVERFLOW. no puddles no leaks nothing.

I am leaning towards a bad tstat. but i am really not sure. i can see the coolant flowing in the rad so i know the water pump isn't bad.

last resort is headgaskets... but i don't see any of the symptons. This is fraustrating!!! HELP ME OUT!!

StylezTA

on another side note, when i turn the car off after driving it i can usually hear popping under the hood, (coolant boiling).

slowpoke96z28

iTrader: (2)

radiator cap, not t-stat. make sure it was on tight. either way its possibly bad now so just replace it. just a quick 5 sec guess

StylezTA

i hope thats the problem, but even with it off it shoots out like a gyser when u start to hold a rev.

jkichline

iTrader: (1)

Could be a bad rad cap not holding pressure (I think its supposed to hold 18PSI).
Also,
An unbled system can do this.
Here's the fill/bleed procedure for an LS-1 just to be sure you're doing it right.

6. Close the radiator drain ****.

7. Fill the system through the radiator surge tank opening up to the base of the neck.

8. Start the engine.

9. Idle engine for 1 minute.

10. Install radiator surge tank cap.

11. Cycle the RPM, idle to 3000 for 30 seconds intervals until engine coolant reaches 210 F.

12. Shut off the engine.

13. Refer to step 3 above to remove the radiator surge tank cap.

14. Start the engine.

15. Idle engine for 1 minute and fill surge tank to ½ above COLD Full mark on the radiator surge tank.

16. Install the radiator surge tank cap.

17. Cycle the RMP, idle to 3000 in 30 seconds intervals until engine coolant reaches 210 F.

18. Shut off the engine.

19. Top off coolant as necessary, to ½ above COLD Full mark on the radiator surge tank.

20. Rinse away any excess coolant from the engine and the compartment.

21. Inspect the concentration of the coolant.

StylezTA

ok i'll def do that procedure... but does anyone think it sounds like bad HG?? i am sure hoping not... not lookin forward to doing that now lol

Myzon26

also check for a partially plugged rad. had near the same problem in mine every time i shut it down it would boil over. rad cap off with engine running saw flow but come to find out the rad was partially clogged and i wasn't getting the cooling capacity i needed. just a thought good luck man

slowpoke96z28

iTrader: (2)

how did the radiator get clogged? hard water? too many miles on the same dexcool? was the system compromised in any way(ie leaking hose, waterpump, radiator,etc)? the rason i ask is because i am trying to gather information on the longevity of dexcool vs the old stuff