Oil leak questions
08-29-2006, 10:37 AM
#1
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Oil leak questions Howdy all,
My car leaked about a 1/3 of a quart of oil on the floor in the garage last night. It was about 2 quarts low when I checked it this morning. I haven't had a chance to look at it yet, but I'm curious about a few things...
1) How deep is the oil when the engine is not running and you have the proper amount of oil in the engine? Does it reach the timing cover?
2) Is there anything wrong with using RTV on the timing cover? I used some when replacing it after doing my cam swap.
3) How difficult is it to replace the oil pan gasket? Can you just pull the bolts, drop the pan a 1/2" slide a new one in, and then bolt it back up? Or, do you have to drop the oil pan entirely (i.e. removing the K-member)?
Thanks in advance. I'll, of course, post my findings after investigating this evening.
My car leaked about a 1/3 of a quart of oil on the floor in the garage last night. It was about 2 quarts low when I checked it this morning. I haven't had a chance to look at it yet, but I'm curious about a few things...
1) How deep is the oil when the engine is not running and you have the proper amount of oil in the engine? Does it reach the timing cover?
2) Is there anything wrong with using RTV on the timing cover? I used some when replacing it after doing my cam swap.
3) How difficult is it to replace the oil pan gasket? Can you just pull the bolts, drop the pan a 1/2" slide a new one in, and then bolt it back up? Or, do you have to drop the oil pan entirely (i.e. removing the K-member)?
Thanks in advance. I'll, of course, post my findings after investigating this evening.
08-29-2006, 11:41 AM
#2
1) the oil should be well below the timing cover.
2) RTV is standard procedure when putting teh timing cover back on. Ive used plenty and never had a problem.
3) Its quite a task to drop the pan. Youll have to remove it completely which requires jacking up and supporting teh engine while removing the K member. Not a simple task. But at that point you could replace your rod bolts.
Better look around and see where the oil is coming from. If it happened all of a sudden, my guess is a leaking oil filter gasket. Also check the timing cover, the crank seal, and the pan gasket though.
2) RTV is standard procedure when putting teh timing cover back on. Ive used plenty and never had a problem.
3) Its quite a task to drop the pan. Youll have to remove it completely which requires jacking up and supporting teh engine while removing the K member. Not a simple task. But at that point you could replace your rod bolts.
Better look around and see where the oil is coming from. If it happened all of a sudden, my guess is a leaking oil filter gasket. Also check the timing cover, the crank seal, and the pan gasket though.
08-29-2006, 12:44 PM
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Can you replace the oil pan gasket without doing all that? Can you take the bolts out, drop it the 1/2" you can until it hits the K-member and then slide a new gasket between the pan and the block and bolt it back up?
08-29-2006, 12:52 PM
#4
Originally Posted by Gauge
Can you replace the oil pan gasket without doing all that? Can you take the bolts out, drop it the 1/2" you can until it hits the K-member and then slide a new gasket between the pan and the block and bolt it back up?
08-29-2006, 01:10 PM
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Originally Posted by GuitsBoy
I dont think you can, since you have to drill out rivits and really need to RTV one side of teh oil pan gasket. Anyway, Im really thinking its a problem with teh plug or the filter since all the oil would be resting inside the pan when parked.
08-29-2006, 10:53 PM
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I hate to even admit the stupidity that follows... but I can't hide it. 
I made two very foolish mistakes this morning when I noticed the puddle on the floor. The first, and lesser, of the two is that I mistook what I saw for oil. I was actually looking at power steering fluid. Since I'd had an oil change not too long ago and the power steering fluid was pretty dirty, they don't really look that different.
The second, and far more embarassing, of the two mistakes is that in the fluster of needing to leave for work and the concern that the engine was leaking oil, I checked the oil level while the damn engine was still running!!!
Of course the dipstick showed it being 2 quarts low. They were in the top of the engine!
The truth of the matter is that one of the power steering lines got too close to the serpentine belt, which has now chewed a hole in it. The line goes from the rack up to the coolant line running between the driver's side of the radiator and the water pump. That's certainly better than I had feared. However, that, as you're probably guessing, leaves me with more questions:
1) The fitting where the line connects to the rack looks pretty simple, but I always thought these required special tools. Can I just get this off with a box end wrench?
2) What kind of fluid do I need to use? If I'm not mistaken, the LS2 GTOs use ATF instead of power steering fluid. Is the same true for the LS1?
3) After replacing the line, what's the procedure for filling up the system, bleeding it, or whatever? I'm clueless when it comes to power steering systems.
4) Should I take this opportunity to flush the system in some way?
5) What is the thing that this power steering line connects to on the coolant line? I assume it allows the power steering fluid to release heat into the coolant just before or just after it goes through the radiator? Is there a name for it?
I made two very foolish mistakes this morning when I noticed the puddle on the floor. The first, and lesser, of the two is that I mistook what I saw for oil. I was actually looking at power steering fluid. Since I'd had an oil change not too long ago and the power steering fluid was pretty dirty, they don't really look that different.
The second, and far more embarassing, of the two mistakes is that in the fluster of needing to leave for work and the concern that the engine was leaking oil, I checked the oil level while the damn engine was still running!!!
Of course the dipstick showed it being 2 quarts low. They were in the top of the engine!The truth of the matter is that one of the power steering lines got too close to the serpentine belt, which has now chewed a hole in it. The line goes from the rack up to the coolant line running between the driver's side of the radiator and the water pump. That's certainly better than I had feared. However, that, as you're probably guessing, leaves me with more questions:
1) The fitting where the line connects to the rack looks pretty simple, but I always thought these required special tools. Can I just get this off with a box end wrench?
2) What kind of fluid do I need to use? If I'm not mistaken, the LS2 GTOs use ATF instead of power steering fluid. Is the same true for the LS1?
3) After replacing the line, what's the procedure for filling up the system, bleeding it, or whatever? I'm clueless when it comes to power steering systems.
4) Should I take this opportunity to flush the system in some way?
5) What is the thing that this power steering line connects to on the coolant line? I assume it allows the power steering fluid to release heat into the coolant just before or just after it goes through the radiator? Is there a name for it?
08-30-2006, 09:58 AM
#7
Lol, atleast its nothing major...
1) Not sure, as I havnt looked at it in a while. I wouldnt imaging needing any special tools though.
2) AFAIK, You can always use ATF in the powerstearing, but not the other way around.
3) I believe the bubbles will work their way out naturally, so no bleeding necessary
4) Probably not necessary
5) That the power steering cooler, standard on 01+ models.
1) Not sure, as I havnt looked at it in a while. I wouldnt imaging needing any special tools though.
2) AFAIK, You can always use ATF in the powerstearing, but not the other way around.
3) I believe the bubbles will work their way out naturally, so no bleeding necessary
4) Probably not necessary
5) That the power steering cooler, standard on 01+ models.