mobil 1 5w-40
#41
Originally Posted by staringback05
now choco can u honestly say youve run your car down here?....the 0w isnt exactly needed, its more for those freezin mornings up north...a 5w gc will hold up fine
5W GC....good luck finding that. the only place i know of where you can get a made in germany castrol syntec 5W-30 is from a BMW dealership.
#42
Originally Posted by ChocoTaco369
GC 0W-30 or mobil 1 5W-40 all year 'round. stay away from mobil 1 10W-30 and 5W-30. their mainstream oil tends to be "meh" at best. this is the reason why i'm scared to try 0W-40...
Choco Personally I wouldnt even try the 0w40. I'd would definately recommend trying the new 5w40 as it's very promising. Now just finding it is the only problem
#44
Originally Posted by buffman
Choco Personally I wouldnt even try the 0w40. I'd would definately recommend trying the new 5w40 as it's very promising. Now just finding it is the only problem
#49
Originally Posted by ChocoTaco369
no, it's not excellent oil. most people don't know what today's mobil 1 is. mobil 1 15,000 mile formula is REAL mobil 1. a few years back, mobil noticed that their standard mobil 1 oil could be run for 15,000 miles. it was good stuff. so what did they do? they jacked the price to 9 dollars a quart, stuck a 15,000 mile extended performance label on it (even though your oil filter craps out at 7,000 miles), then made a cheapened version of the oil and repackaged it as normal mobil 1. REAL mobil 1 is the extended life oil, not what they market today as standard mobil 1. standard 6 dollar a quart mobil 1 5W-30 is NOT excellent oil by any means. it's the poster child for mediocre oil. run it in any engine and get it analyzed, then run something like GC 0W-30 and get the same analysis done. you will never use mobil 1 5W-30 again.
that being said, again, 5W-40 is said to be good stuff. i will be running this in my next oil change and will compare results to GC 0W-30. it will probably take me well into next year to do this, but the heat is on.
and FWIW, oil consumption is not the biggest reason why it doesn't work well in our cars. the real reason it doesn't work well in our cars is mobil 1 5W-30 is a borderline 20 weight at operating temperature. a V8 engine like ours has large clearances and this borderline 20 weight oil protects very poorly. this incredible thinness also contributes to the consumption problems of our poorly designed PCV systems exponentially. i'm honest when i say i wouldn't run it if it was free.
that being said, again, 5W-40 is said to be good stuff. i will be running this in my next oil change and will compare results to GC 0W-30. it will probably take me well into next year to do this, but the heat is on.
and FWIW, oil consumption is not the biggest reason why it doesn't work well in our cars. the real reason it doesn't work well in our cars is mobil 1 5W-30 is a borderline 20 weight at operating temperature. a V8 engine like ours has large clearances and this borderline 20 weight oil protects very poorly. this incredible thinness also contributes to the consumption problems of our poorly designed PCV systems exponentially. i'm honest when i say i wouldn't run it if it was free.
#51
Originally Posted by Dal1as
Um, y'all are mixing up the Mobil 1 non-syn and synthetic oils I believe. The formula was changed on there non-syn extended life oil not the synthetic. The low oil viscosity is correct though. Running Mobil 1 0-40 is better. Also oil analysis has shown that the best oil to run in our cars goes in this order. GC 0-30, Amsoil (I believe 0-40), Mobil 1 5-40, Mobil 1 0-40, and so on. Royal Purple actually scored pretty bad. There race oil is good but not the multi weights.
#52
I put GC 0w30 in my car today. I did notice a higher oil PSI and a bit less "noise" coming from the valve train vs. the dino that Carmax put in it when they did an oil change. So far, so good. We'll see how it holds up in the next 5k or so.
#53
fellas we need to honestly just kill the oil threads because they dont really get anyone anywhere.......for example....lsx blocks came off the line all very very slightly different....one might be more tighter then the one behind it....depending on where you live can determine the oil thats best for you.....the way you run the car can also determine what type of oil you can run......you just cant say...____ is a good oil for all lsx motor....i mean ive run 5w 30 in my car for ever....through two engines....i cant count how many lsx motors ive worked on and i swear everyone was run in a different oil.....there ARE oils we all can agree are garbage and some oils we ALL can agree are pretty good....but i wont go out and say this or that is the best for all.........THATS FOOLISH....sooooo can we please just kill the pointless oil threads, or at least knock them down to one thread?
#54
staringback05, IMo this is the best advise to give for oil choice
The reality is that used oil analysis (UOA) is the only decent determinant for whether the oil you choose is optimal for your engine, ambient conditions, your driving profile, your driving style, etc.
#56
^^ Exactly. It gets to the point to where you can recommend an oil for someone else's car based on previous UOA of other's cars, but it's up to that person to perform UOAs on their own car to determine whether or not that oil they chose is doing a good job.
#57
ive just done it the old way to long, my car runs great on the oil i use......i check the pan every now and then, i check the used oil also, ive cut open filters, and pulled heads....one day i might actually get around to taking it to someone....
#58
Originally Posted by ChocoTaco369
i'm pretty sure they did it with their synthetic formula, also, not just the conventional oil.
#59
Originally Posted by Dal1as
The post over on bobistheoilguy.com stated regular Mobil 1, not synthetic. Not to mention there 15,000 oil is not synthetic.