What would cause cruise control to intermittently turn off by itself?
04-07-2022, 09:09 AM
#21
TECH Fanatic
04-17-2022, 01:34 PM
#22
TECH Fanatic
For documentation purposes, I swapped out the CC module yesterday and darned if it isn't still intermittently working. That tells me that my original is most likely good.
08-23-2022, 09:58 AM
#23
TECH Fanatic
The cruise control is working now. It was the 15A fuse for that circuit - that's also for the AC compressor. The AC compressor was having some issues turning on, which is what lead me to that fuse. I could touch and lightly move the fuse and compressor would turn off.
08-23-2022, 03:34 PM
#24
Glad you got it sorted. I don't remember what the solution was two decades ago. I don't have TCS, so the cruise cable on my TB cam routes directly to the CC module. Over the years, I've replaced the CC module, adjusted the two switches under the kick panel, replaced the cruise stalk, and added fishing sinkers to the end of the cruise cable to take up slack.
08-23-2022, 05:30 PM
#25
TECH Fanatic
Glad you got it sorted. I don't remember what the solution was two decades ago. I don't have TCS, so the cruise cable on my TB cam routes directly to the CC module. Over the years, I've replaced the CC module, adjusted the two switches under the kick panel, replaced the cruise stalk, and added fishing sinkers to the end of the cruise cable to take up slack.
09-06-2022, 10:45 AM
#26
TECH Fanatic
Glad you got it sorted. I don't remember what the solution was two decades ago. I don't have TCS, so the cruise cable on my TB cam routes directly to the CC module. Over the years, I've replaced the CC module, adjusted the two switches under the kick panel, replaced the cruise stalk, and added fishing sinkers to the end of the cruise cable to take up slack.
05-14-2023, 10:31 PM
#27
I'm still fighting it. For me, I think it's simply a shorter distance between the aftermarket CC/Throttle cable bracket and the Nick Williams stud on the cam. I'd rather not make random adjustments to other engine components and find a solution which would allow the cable to be adjusted without risk of it being too short for a future change.
* The brackets I've found don't place the bracket far enough away from the TB to take up the extra slack.
* Some brackets interfere with the LS3 'beauty' cover. I'm not sure if removing the beauty cover will permit a bracket to be mounted far enough back to take up the slack.I'd rather keep the cover if needed. I have a spare new cover.
* I've tried the Dorman 41040 and it doesn't have enough adjustability
* I'm leery of modifying the cable by cutting off the end and welding on a different end. Need reliability and don't want it to be too short for a future change.
* This model year doesn't have the inline adjuster that later years have. Helms manual says to limit slack to 2mm, mines closer to 2". It only references adjustment using (the non-existent) inline adjuster.
* I bought the ICT 1/2" TB spacer to attempt to move the TB forward, and bought a spare IntakeHoses.com 22L40. They also make a 1" spacer. I started on it then wasn't excited about the additional complexity.
* I added fish sinkers to the end of the cable to take up slack, but the larger diameter of the sinker pulled the Dorman 41040 away from the cam stud, and it slips off the stud. A sinker large enough to wrap over the cable is too large of an OD.
* I have a spare used cruise control module, but the Helms manual doesn't describe a method to take up slack on that end of the cable.
* Maybe I could use a bead of solder on the cable, not sure if that could be removed if needed later.
* The brackets I've found don't place the bracket far enough away from the TB to take up the extra slack.
* Some brackets interfere with the LS3 'beauty' cover. I'm not sure if removing the beauty cover will permit a bracket to be mounted far enough back to take up the slack.I'd rather keep the cover if needed. I have a spare new cover.
* I've tried the Dorman 41040 and it doesn't have enough adjustability
* I'm leery of modifying the cable by cutting off the end and welding on a different end. Need reliability and don't want it to be too short for a future change.
* This model year doesn't have the inline adjuster that later years have. Helms manual says to limit slack to 2mm, mines closer to 2". It only references adjustment using (the non-existent) inline adjuster.
* I bought the ICT 1/2" TB spacer to attempt to move the TB forward, and bought a spare IntakeHoses.com 22L40. They also make a 1" spacer. I started on it then wasn't excited about the additional complexity.
* I added fish sinkers to the end of the cable to take up slack, but the larger diameter of the sinker pulled the Dorman 41040 away from the cam stud, and it slips off the stud. A sinker large enough to wrap over the cable is too large of an OD.
* I have a spare used cruise control module, but the Helms manual doesn't describe a method to take up slack on that end of the cable.
* Maybe I could use a bead of solder on the cable, not sure if that could be removed if needed later.
