ls1owner4life

iTrader: (17)

So if someone could please summarize what oil is best for a 02 ls1 in California with 8K Mi. It is never too cold or hot here. Also whats the best oil filter to buy? I need to change my oil this week. Thanks.

keliente

iTrader: (22)

I have had the best results with regular castrol 10w30. :shrug: I don't get fancy with brand/weight/synthetic etc.

TX_SS

iTrader: (4)

i just love ppl like you..im sorry for my spelling. didnt know this was english class. anyhow, i wasnt inconsistent with my theory maybe you should re-read what i have posted in this tread. plus you are the one whos inconsistent. you said ls1 doesnt burn oil and yet you use catch can? why?? why would you spend money on something that you dont need? if your theory or fact is correct then you shouldnt use a catch can. burning half quart of oil is still burning oil. period.

IF ls1 doesnt burn oil then why ppl buy or sell CATCH CAN??? why is there oil underneath the intake maniford? or on TB?? where is that oil goin in to?

ANSWER IT~~ thatz right cuz LS1 BURNS OIL..

RPM. you are right and so was i. PCV burns oil PERIOD there for ALL LS1 burns oil. in this case, some ls1 might burn more than others. i only burned half or less in my old 02 ws6 but my 99 hawk with full-bolt/h/c burns lot more.


01petwerbird, you and i are arguing about nothing. you and i; we have different opinions about burning oil/synthetic vs dino oil. just go back to page one and re-read what i posted. you started off wrong by sayin im a joke. you didnt even read what i posted.

RPM WS6

iTrader: (3)

What proof do you have of this? I have many years of doing this with many motors to prove that it does NOT cause issues.

Once again, I call on this rumor.

GM even recommeneds changing weights for different outside temps right in the owner's manual of both my Monte and Bonneville. And although not specifically recommended or not recommended by GM for the LS1, it's not going to hurt that motor either.

As for changing brands, there is absolutely NOTHING about brand switching that will cause "issues". I've used Mobil, Valvoline, Pennzoil, Castrol, etc., both synthetic and non, all in the same motors at different times. No issues.

RPM WS6

iTrader: (3)

Keep in mind, the point to any PCV system is to vent crankcase pressure and remove crankcase vapors by burning them off via the intake air charge rather than venting them to the atmosphere. So if you want to be technical about it, any car with a PCV system is burning “some” oil with those vapors. Every car I’ve ever owned with a PCV system has some oil residue in the PCV valve and lines.

I think your point is that LS1s tend to suck more oil through the PCV system than other cars/motors do. In this case, you are correct. You will typically not see as much oil in the intake or around the TB blade on other motors as you do with LS1s.

But not all LS1s use significant amounts of oil via the PCV. And I think to say they all “burn oil” (though technically correct to a small degree), is misleading though, because in most people’s mind burning oil means that a significant loss of oil will be noted on the dipstick after as little as 500-1000 miles, or even after 3,000 miles. Some of us have no noticeable loss of oil between change intervals, period. So yes, even though we have some minor amounts of oil getting sucked through the PCV and technically being “burned”, it’s not what most people would consider “burning oil” because the condition is too minor to really warrant any action or concern.

And if you use a catch can to trap the oil before it enters the intake, then you really aren't burning it at all, and the intake should be free from residue. Since mine uses no significant amount of oil and has only minor residue in the intake, I've opted aganist getting a catch can because it just doesn't seem worth it in my case, but that's not the case for everyone.

On the other hand, if your LS1 is using excessive amounts of oil (say a quart in 1000 miles or less), that is what I’d call “burning oil”, and the primary culprit in that case will likely not be the PCV system (although it does play a role) but rather oil blowing past the rings.

So again, yes, any oil getting into the combustion chamber by any means will be burned, but if there is no significant or noticeable loss of oil on the dipstick between changes, then IMO it’s misleading to call the motor an oil burner, even if there is a small amount of oil in the intake.

taintedmeat

iTrader: (1)

Gr8 thread

01pewterbird

I think RPM pretty much summed it up buddy. You are misleading when you say "burning oil", when it is the pcv sucking oil. I run a catch ran, therefore I don't BURN OIL, I CATCH it. There is no more to be said about this 3-4 people on this one thread alone have said the level on their dipstick doesn't move between oil changes. I was calling you out on your broad generalizations by saying "all ls1 burn oil, all ls1 slap" which obviously isn't true. As I said before, I’m just pointing out your false inconsistencies. While our opinions may differ, mine are backed up by oil analyses, and people on this thread. You on the other hand, back it up with what you generalize to be true for all ls1's. Which is the reason I called you joke.

Grimes

iTrader: (3)

M1 0W40 here, and no problems whatsoever. I have tried GC, and honestly burned more of it than with M1.

jond99

iTrader: (1)

Only been using M1 5w-30 since I bought my car, no problems.

staringback05

iTrader: (8)

RPM....you cant go and call bs on that....

main reason is the same reason i lived with your info....you cant throw down one reason on these motors or one claim because their different....

i HAVE ripped apart motors before that have gone back and forth between synth. and non-synth.....the seals inside are pretty bad, and they will tend to have bearing issues...mainly because the consistancy of the oil....you cant have something thicker being forced into areas and then put something thinner into its place after the thicker thing has already worn the area out...

thats why most good gm techs will tell you not to break in a motor with sythn....

I DO KNOW for a fact in some motors, REGARDLESS OF BRAND going back in forth between weights and types has prematurely worn internal parts....it might not have caused any to fail, but it deff. has worn them beyond what the normal wear rate is

i mean you can go from thinner to thicker and not have issues, but running a thicker oil and then switching back to a thinner type is why alot of guys have noise, because theres nothing there to fill the void left by the wearing of parts by the thicker oil....

as for the burning issue....some cars do, some cars dont....mine is ALWAYS about 1/2 qaurt low when i change it, but i believe it can becuase of the type of oil more or less

J. Brown

thats not what she said...................

Mr Incredible

I can't believe there is so much non-fact floating around in a single thread.

StaringBack05, a body could change to a different (auto oil of proper RANGE) Mfg/weight/type every other day and not see any damage to an engine. To say otherwise is uneducated silliness. A thicker oil doesn't "wear out" an area. The pressure goes up, the oil doesn't not ERODE clearances. The oil film becomes thicker between moving parts with a thicker oil. It does not PUSH seals and gaskets aside. What was being looked at was not caused by what you think. Why were the engines apart? What did it have to do with oil? Was it REALLY back and forth with oil or is it just an uneducated guess? Going back to a thinner oil merely returns to prior pressures and oil film thicknesses.

If a person doesn't like a particular brand/weight of oil, My God, just try another. It's not the end of the freakin' world. Which other oil? I dunno, how about looking up specs and choosing an oil based on what you think you need. Don't know what you need? Search the web. Google "oil", not "oiled *******."

To wildly generalize about the entire LS1 family because of your LS1/your brother's LS1/your buddy's LS1/something you read about LS1's is tellingly ignorant. Some LS1s burn oil. Hell, my TRUCK burns oil. So what? Does my LS1s 1/2 qt over 3000 miles count as an oil burner? Yes? No? And how many catch-cans have been installed on cars, not for real problems, but just in case and because they look cool?

Good grief people, if you're gonna talk about something at least know something about it! And learn how to GD spell and punctuate, it's easier for all to read.

Sneakyws6

I am going to have to agree here. Changing weight, types, or brands of oil does nothing to a motor. It does not cause bearing to fail or parts to wear. the owner of the car causes a majority of the problems by not running a good quality oil, not keep the oil up to level, and or not keep the car in general good running order.

I have used Quaker most of my life until I got my 89 Formula350, then I went with Mobile one syn. when I pulled my intake off at 120,000 miles there was very little noticable deposites anywhere inside my intake or on the valley.

99% of most cars decline in performance and or running condition is due to the owners running sub par materials on the car trying to save a buck here and there. This does for oil and oil filter. Run a cheap oil and filter and expect issues.

My 2001 Formula with 80,000 miles on the clock does not burn any noticable oil at all. This is the second motor. The factory motor was replaced by GM at 33,000 miles due to very excessive piston slap. That motor from brand new would use almost a quart of oil every 1000-15000 miles. I had people tell me you could see smoke coming out of the exhaust. The car did this from day one of ownership and I bought it new.

The new motor uses no oil. Like was said, there is a difference in burning some oil thru the pcv system. That is what it is designed to do. But if a car is using more than a quart of oil every 1500 miles there are other issues at hand like was said more than likely excessive blow by the rings.

staringback05

iTrader: (8)

your right, I never pulled apart motors for four years learning about them.

your also right that I made a generalization?...could you please ******* show me where I did that?

can you also show me where I said that oil "push's aside seals and gaskets"?

you've got to be pretty dense to not understand that oil is whats between moving parts, THICKER HEAVIER OIL DISPLACE'S MORE AREA...its ******* science

on brand new motors, using a thick oil WILL wear in an area alot faster then a thinner oil and thus switching back to the thinner oil later on will create more valve train noise, more friction, and possible problems later on...

ive broken down motors because of several things, related and unrelated to oil issues....ie bearing problems, oil pump issues, rocker problems, etc....

also my post is pretty easy to read compared to other's on here....dont even try to call out how i post, keep your smartass comments to yourself

staringback05

iTrader: (8)

I like how I just commented on the oil burning issue and didnt really take a side, but all of the sudden im in the wrong and Ive been thrown on one side.....

also when did I ever comment on a broken in, several thousand mile motor?....I honestly dont think oil will make as big of a difference on the older motors then on a new motor

as Ive stated before, I dont comment on topic's unless ive seen it, dealt with it, or have done it....so as far as those calling my information B/S...go ahead, I personally dont give a ****...Ive proven so many people on here wrong its a ******* joke....I dont call out people or topics I dont know about, I never have...

RPM WS6

iTrader: (3)

You don’t have to “live” with anything I post. You can fool yourself into believing whatever you want, frankly I don’t care. If you want to believe that “all these motors” you’ve ripped apart had issues due solely to switching brands/weights around, then you should stay in your own world with that misinformation and stop spreading falsehoods to people that don’t know any better. Were you there with that engine from day one? Do you know what sort of conditions it was operated under? Do you know if proper maintenance was performed over the life of the motor? How could you, unless YOU were the owner of the motor.

I can tell you this. I’ve owned many cars, and many motors. I’ve switched around brands/types/weights many, many times on engines with anything from 3,000 miles to 140,000 miles. Never once have I lost a motor by doing this. In fact, out of 14 cars I’ve only lost one motor and that was within a few thousand miles of driving the car, so I blame poor maintenance on the part of the previous owner.

As for the GM techs, please find one of these GM techs that says synthetic is bad for a new motor, and ask him why the hell it was factory issue in the LS1 Corvettes. I’d love to hear the answer. While you’re at it, ask him why factory service manuals for many GM cars recommend changing weights for different temp ranges at different times of year, if it’s so bad.

I hate to attack people on this site because we are like a big family, but damn I just can’t watch you spread false info like that and not speak up. You are going to mislead and confuse people with your opinions and false ideas of the effect of switching brands/weights.

RPM WS6

iTrader: (3)

OK,

That is exactly what you are doing in this case.

RPM WS6

iTrader: (3)

Tainted

iTrader: (9)

I think the whole heavy to light weight oil thing and synethetic to non is some bullshit some crazy wal mart employee thought up. but remember, just because you have more noise doesnt mean they arent getting lubed enough or anything

staringback05

iTrader: (8)

what the ****? god people are ******* blind,deaf, and dumb....I NEVER SAID ALL THE MOTORS I PULLED APART WERE CAUSED BY OIL, I NEVER SAID THE OIL IN ITSELF CAUSES A MOTOR TO FAIL...I SAID IT LEADS TO PREMATURE WEAR....
gm tech- andy speiler *nashville tn.
gm tech- mark shakespear *tampa fl.

you've never agreed with anything ive ever said anyway....even when others did, i stood up against all these dumbass people on here who believe low oil pressure is a good thing....im the one that had two fucked up motors because of it....

alot of people on here read ******* books, or see something on speed tv and think they know something....half of the people who comment probably dont even know how to drop a oil pan....

you people just wait to jump on some one and not really pay atten. to what there saying....

USING SYNTH./ THICKER OIL ON A NEW MOTOR WILL WEAR IN THE INTERNAL PARTS ALOT FASTER THEN THE RECOMENDED TYPE...5W30...WHICH IS IN THE MANUAL...THUS THIS COULD LEAD TO PROBLEMS LATER....THATS MY WHOLE STANCE....WHATEVER ELSE TO TRY TO CRUCIFY ME WITH IS BULLSHIT