Changing Battery Cables
Changing Battery Cables Well my battery went to **** and spilt acid on my car. I am going to nuetralize it w/ baking soda, what should i do from there? I also want to change the positive battery cable. How hard is it to change it yourself any tips would be appreciated. where can i get a new one?
Thanks
michael
Thanks
michael
this is strange, I literally just rebuilt this for the same reason today.
Mine actually had white crap all the way down to the starter.
I couldn't find a kit that I thought would do the trick in your average auto parts store section. All the kits had 4 and 2 gague wire and no real way to connect 3 wires into one post like the factory has.
So I went to a decent hardware shop and bought some 6 gague primary wire in 3 sections.
-1 X 52" Black - ALT
-1 X 52" Red - fuse box
-1 X 36" Red - Starter
And 3 x 6 gauge crimp connectors to match.
Hardware store actually had a side post hookup that had a 2 bolt clamp that allowed for clamping down 3 stripped ends of 6gague wire. Its tight but it works.
I didn't know where to start looking for a GM part number so I just built it myself.
Works like a charm.
And getting to them is not problem, just jack up the front high enough and you'll be fine.
You'll need a deep 13mm, reg 13mm, and a deep 15mm or wrench for the fusebox.
then just misc stuff like zip ties or that plastic wire sheath if you want to replace that.
Most of that stuff actually melted off when the battery exploded a year ago so it needs replacement anyway.
Mine actually had white crap all the way down to the starter.
I couldn't find a kit that I thought would do the trick in your average auto parts store section. All the kits had 4 and 2 gague wire and no real way to connect 3 wires into one post like the factory has.
So I went to a decent hardware shop and bought some 6 gague primary wire in 3 sections.
-1 X 52" Black - ALT
-1 X 52" Red - fuse box
-1 X 36" Red - Starter
And 3 x 6 gauge crimp connectors to match.
Hardware store actually had a side post hookup that had a 2 bolt clamp that allowed for clamping down 3 stripped ends of 6gague wire. Its tight but it works.
I didn't know where to start looking for a GM part number so I just built it myself.
Works like a charm.
And getting to them is not problem, just jack up the front high enough and you'll be fine.
You'll need a deep 13mm, reg 13mm, and a deep 15mm or wrench for the fusebox.
then just misc stuff like zip ties or that plastic wire sheath if you want to replace that.
Most of that stuff actually melted off when the battery exploded a year ago so it needs replacement anyway.
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Originally Posted by RAIDER
Thanks dirtyjohn, that's a big help. About how much did you spend on everything?
~$4 for that side post terminal thing.
~ wire was hovering @ $1 a foot
~ crimp connectors @ 1.20 a piece
Something like that, should be < $40 to slap it all together.
Honestly, I would (and prob will) consider looking into the GM part, it will be more elegant and your terminals will still look nice.
Now mine are bastardized with one looking nice and the other one all Wal-Mart without the rubber boot. I may call the stealership today or do some searching on here and see if I can track down a GM part number for those wires (I'll hit you with it if I find it), as I would rather keep it looking nice.
But for now, my rebuild did work pretty well.
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ACDelco Part # 4SX53-2
GM Part #12157131 , which from GMPartsdirect.com is about $35.
Looking here...
Led me to ACDelco.com where you can search for that part number.
Confirm this if you want but I think this is the right part number.
I'm prob going to buy this even after my working one.
I'm fine with having blown $35 to build it myself, learned to troubleshoot and research before I get all impulsive.
Also, finding a place that sells rubber insulated primary wire by the foot is not easy
ACDelco Part # 4SX53-2
GM Part #12157131 , which from GMPartsdirect.com is about $35.
Looking here...
Led me to ACDelco.com where you can search for that part number.
Confirm this if you want but I think this is the right part number.
I'm prob going to buy this even after my working one.
I'm fine with having blown $35 to build it myself, learned to troubleshoot and research before I get all impulsive.
Also, finding a place that sells rubber insulated primary wire by the foot is not easy
The white crap is the result of acid. Once you use the baking soda (coke also works) I would wash it off (of course). I would then do a second application, since some of the crud might have prevented the baking soda from getting through. Rinse again, then check to see if any paint was removed so that you see bare metal. If you do see bare metal, go ahead and prep and paint. If you do not, it will either rust or be much more susceptible to acid again.
Originally Posted by koolaid_kid
The white crap is the result of acid. Once you use the baking soda (coke also works) I would wash it off (of course). I would then do a second application, since some of the crud might have prevented the baking soda from getting through. Rinse again, then check to see if any paint was removed so that you see bare metal. If you do see bare metal, go ahead and prep and paint. If you do not, it will either rust or be much more susceptible to acid again.
I had to repaint mine aswell, and my K-member is still showing corrosion.
awesome.
Once it starts to rust, you are close to being screwed. You can try a rust remover (naval jelly?), sand until everything is bright and shiny, and paint with a rustoleum paint (primer first). It will help, but is not a permanent solution.
Originally Posted by koolaid_kid
Once it starts to rust, you are close to being screwed. You can try a rust remover (naval jelly?), sand until everything is bright and shiny, and paint with a rustoleum paint (primer first). It will help, but is not a permanent solution.
Last edited by RAIDER; May 12, 2007 at 03:59 PM.
