Dyno Tune-Having Issues
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 150
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From: Phoenix, Arizona
Dyno Tune-Having Issues I just had a dyno tune this past Tues.
The car does not seem to be driving as well as did before the tune.
I know that when it was on the dyno, my Y-pipe was loose. They tightened up the Y-pipe so my car could run on the dyno a couple of times.
A couple of weeks before I had my dyno tune, I did have a header gasket leak. That was fixed completly & the car ran & sounded much better.
I thought the car would drive better, but it actually drives & sounds worse since I had this dyno tune. I was underneath the car tonight and it sounds something between a ticking noise & detonation.
The car also has NO pickup at all.
Do any of you know what this might be from?
The car does not seem to be driving as well as did before the tune.
I know that when it was on the dyno, my Y-pipe was loose. They tightened up the Y-pipe so my car could run on the dyno a couple of times.
A couple of weeks before I had my dyno tune, I did have a header gasket leak. That was fixed completly & the car ran & sounded much better.
I thought the car would drive better, but it actually drives & sounds worse since I had this dyno tune. I was underneath the car tonight and it sounds something between a ticking noise & detonation.
The car also has NO pickup at all.
Do any of you know what this might be from?
sounds like you might have a major exhaust leak before the o2, this would cause it to run very poorly and have a ticking noise...check all connections and go from there, you can also put it on efi live and see what your fuel trims are doing, this will give u an idea of wether your car is running rich in which case your o2s are gone
slow? what the hell?...who tuned your car?....they dont get slow....they either die or they dont, and for someone who would tune your car with a bad o2 hmmm.....
did he explain to you what he did when he tuned your car?....VE tables, timing, fans, shifts,....etc etc...or did he just put it on and go and say there?
did he explain to you what he did when he tuned your car?....VE tables, timing, fans, shifts,....etc etc...or did he just put it on and go and say there?
He might be talking about the stock O2 sensor being too lazy since they don't get hot enough due to the headers. Usually that will turn on your SES light though with code 1153 if I am not mistaken. I had those problems with the stock O2's throwing the SES codes, but I fixed that by using the rear O2 sensors used on a Vette. The longer pig tail on those O2s together with its higher voltage eliminates not only the O2 extensions, but also the "lazyness" of the O2. However, while my car was throwing codes like that, it didn't feel slow or sluggish at all, I think your problem lies elsewhere.
What did the car pull on the dyno, and what did your graph look like? Did it feel like it had no pick up at all as soon as you left the tuner, or is it something that developed later on?
What did the car pull on the dyno, and what did your graph look like? Did it feel like it had no pick up at all as soon as you left the tuner, or is it something that developed later on?
Originally Posted by staringback05
slow? what the hell?...who tuned your car?....they dont get slow....they either die or they dont, and for someone who would tune your car with a bad o2 hmmm.....
did he explain to you what he did when he tuned your car?....VE tables, timing, fans, shifts,....etc etc...or did he just put it on and go and say there?
did he explain to you what he did when he tuned your car?....VE tables, timing, fans, shifts,....etc etc...or did he just put it on and go and say there?
O2s are know for being "lazy" after header installs like Manny mentioned
it sounds like you have exhaust leaks, header leaks, go through everything
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 150
Likes: 0
From: Phoenix, Arizona
Originally Posted by MannyZ28
He might be talking about the stock O2 sensor being too lazy since they don't get hot enough due to the headers. Usually that will turn on your SES light though with code 1153 if I am not mistaken. I had those problems with the stock O2's throwing the SES codes, but I fixed that by using the rear O2 sensors used on a Vette. The longer pig tail on those O2s together with its higher voltage eliminates not only the O2 extensions, but also the "lazyness" of the O2. However, while my car was throwing codes like that, it didn't feel slow or sluggish at all, I think your problem lies elsewhere.
What did the car pull on the dyno, and what did your graph look like? Did it feel like it had no pick up at all as soon as you left the tuner, or is it something that developed later on?
What did the car pull on the dyno, and what did your graph look like? Did it feel like it had no pick up at all as soon as you left the tuner, or is it something that developed later on?
Im going in for my 45,000 mile maintenance this Mon. I bought an extended warranty, so Im hoping a few things that need to be replaced might be covered.
And as far as the headers go, this is my 2nd exhaust leak in a row.
Ive decided to get rid of the headers and go back to the stock manifolds.
Them Im gonna concentrate on getting a louder catback system W/out removing my cats.
Ive had it W/ these headers.
Last edited by Zoegirl; May 19, 2007 at 02:52 AM.
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if the o2 sensor's are not heating up right and they arent reading properly, theyve failed....slow, fat, queer, rich...it doesnt matter theyve failed....
point is....a good tuner wont slack *** and leave shitty o2s in when tuning a car, good tuner will put the moats/wideband on and do it the right way....not tell you "your o2s are lazy"
anyways....what kind of gaskets are you using?...are you having problems with the collector end of the headers?....and if your looking for just loud, look into a cutout...
also, i would advise finding a good tuner with efi live and let him give you a street tune, i personally found dyno's and performance shops overrated.....seems like alot of them just sell the dyno mystic and give you a cookie cutter tune....or just want your money....
when you can hook up live, and run your car for any amount of time and let the system stay in each individual fuel cell, finding its best performance area....on the road you can keep the car in a rpm band for a longer time then you can on a dyno also...most shops only give you between 4-6 pulls....for like 400 bucks....dynos also dont fully simulate road conditions, and air intake....you cant compare a fan blowing air at your motor to driving 110 down the road
sucks about the exhaust leak, we all hate them...but theres alot of options in that department just pick the one with the long term you like the most, as for the tune....find something better....
point is....a good tuner wont slack *** and leave shitty o2s in when tuning a car, good tuner will put the moats/wideband on and do it the right way....not tell you "your o2s are lazy"
anyways....what kind of gaskets are you using?...are you having problems with the collector end of the headers?....and if your looking for just loud, look into a cutout...
also, i would advise finding a good tuner with efi live and let him give you a street tune, i personally found dyno's and performance shops overrated.....seems like alot of them just sell the dyno mystic and give you a cookie cutter tune....or just want your money....
when you can hook up live, and run your car for any amount of time and let the system stay in each individual fuel cell, finding its best performance area....on the road you can keep the car in a rpm band for a longer time then you can on a dyno also...most shops only give you between 4-6 pulls....for like 400 bucks....dynos also dont fully simulate road conditions, and air intake....you cant compare a fan blowing air at your motor to driving 110 down the road
sucks about the exhaust leak, we all hate them...but theres alot of options in that department just pick the one with the long term you like the most, as for the tune....find something better....
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