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“Check Gauges” and Voltage Issue

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Old Jul 15, 2007 | 07:28 PM
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Default “Check Gauges” and Voltage Issue

Last week I noticed my “Check Gauges” light was flickering on and off and at the same time my voltmeter was bouncing up and down from about 13.5 volts to maybe 11 volts (about where the orange starts). So I first thought it was probably the alternator, but wanted to check a few other things before just throwing a new alternator on there. So I checked the out put voltage of the battery, checked the battery connections, and they seemed good. So I went to autozone to have the check my alternator. It put out around 13 amps, and the autozone said it should be putting out about 102 amps. So I just thought that was the problem. Got the new alternator and installed it, and installed a new battery (old one was ok, but 5 years old) at the same time. Installed new battery posts too, and cleaned all the connections very good.

So I was still having the same issue. It doesn’t happen 100% of the time, but very often, maybe 80% of the time. So I removed all the grounds that are visible from the top of the engine bay, cleaned all of them, and reconnected them.

Still having the issue. I read in another post on here, that a persons MAF sensor was causing a similar issue. So I took the MAF off my other Formula, and installed it, just to eliminate that as an issue. Still having the issue.


Does anyone have any suggestions of what it might be? Or what I can try next to possible fix the issue.

Thanks in advance
Nick
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Old Jul 15, 2007 | 08:42 PM
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I would suspect another bad alternator. If you got a remanufactured one it could be the culprit. They come bad out of the box on occasion. Do you have an aftermarket stereo installed?

Travis
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Old Jul 16, 2007 | 02:15 AM
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cross fingers and hope its not ur ECU.
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Old Jul 16, 2007 | 09:20 AM
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Originally Posted by Thebeast431
I would suspect another bad alternator. If you got a remanufactured one it could be the culprit. They come bad out of the box on occasion. Do you have an aftermarket stereo installed?

Travis
I do have an aftermarket stereo, but I had disconnected it, to eliminate that as part of the problem. The stereo is very small, just an amp to power my speakers, no subs.
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Old Jul 16, 2007 | 11:08 AM
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check your power wires to the fuses, starter, battery and alternator....sometimes problems can arise from wires melting or crossing....giving similiar results to your problem
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Old Jul 16, 2007 | 01:02 PM
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If you had a bad ground (especially negative bat cable) it's likely that it fried the diodes in the old alternator. If you did have a bad ground and ran the new alternator before correcting the problem it's likely fried now too.
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Old Jul 17, 2007 | 09:29 AM
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go get your old one tested before you spend the cash.
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Old Jul 21, 2007 | 01:55 PM
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Last night I replaced Main positive harness, and the main negative harness. (the ones that attach from the battery to the starter, alternator, block, fuse distribution, ect.)

Car was still having the same issues.

So today I'm pulling out the new alternator I just installed from Autozone, and going to have them replace it, and install the new one. Hope this works. Or else I have no idea what it could possibly be.
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Old Jul 21, 2007 | 04:16 PM
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are you using a dvm to check any thing?
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Old Jul 22, 2007 | 01:18 AM
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Installed the new alternator today around 5pm. Started the car, and the voltage was fine (happened before too, then got bad after a while). Started driving the car for a bit, and seemed fine. About 14.5 volts while driving, and 13.2 at idle. Drove the car for about 30 miles, with a few stops in between, and eveything seemed OK.

Then i get on it a bit, and the ses light comes on, and the volts instantly drop to where the orange starts on the gauge. So I got to my buddies house, and parked it. Later went to go home, and started it up. Was still ot the top of the orange. So I figure I'll try to make it home, what the hell. Start driving and the volts start to drop consitantly as I drive, the car ended up dying just as I pulled into the driveway.

The only thing I can think is that it has to do with the connector that plugs into the top of the alternator.

Any ideas? What exactly does that wire do, and where does it go?
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Old Jul 22, 2007 | 01:51 AM
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that connector should have 1 wire only. and make sure it clicks in.
and you said your SES light came on, what code is it?

when my alternator went out, my ses light didnt come on, but my check gauges light did.
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Old Jul 22, 2007 | 07:33 AM
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check your wires.....
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Old Jul 22, 2007 | 09:42 AM
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Originally Posted by Havok2
that connector should have 1 wire only. and make sure it clicks in.
and you said your SES light came on, what code is it?

when my alternator went out, my ses light didnt come on, but my check gauges light did.
Low voltage to my O2 sensors was the ses code.


I've checked every wire, except the exciter wire. I made sure it wasn't broke from the connector, and made sure it was pluged in, but I'm going to make sure now the connection is good. Make sure the pin is making contact inside the conector.
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Old Jul 22, 2007 | 09:43 AM
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Originally Posted by staringback05
check your wires.....
What wires specificly are you refering to? I've already checked or replaced just about everything.
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Old Jul 22, 2007 | 10:54 AM
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starter wires, fuse wires,....i know youve already checked your battery wires...if these all check out, check some of the main sensor wires around the engine bay for load....i had a maf issue one time where a bare maf power wire was touching another, thus throwing my voltage all over the place....
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Old Jul 25, 2007 | 04:36 PM
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Just to make sure it wasn't just a bad connection on the exciter wire, I got a new plug from the dealer, and spliced in on, and connected it to the alternator.

Still didn't fix the issue.

I want to check to see if the alternator is getting a signal from the exciter wire.

Is there a way I can test this, like hooking up a multimeter to it, and seeing a specifc voltage. I just want to make sure the alternator is getting a signal from the exciter wire. Any info would be appreciated.

Thanks in advance.
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Old Jul 25, 2007 | 11:45 PM
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Tonight I checked the exciter wire. It was getting a 12v signal when the car was keyed on.

I also spliced in a extra connector and ran a direct 12v to the plug on the top of the alternator to trick it into charging. It still wouldn't charge. With the car running and the exciter wire attached, I checked the voltage output directly at the alternator, and it was 9v or so.

So I'm assuming that this alternator is bad also, that would make 2 Autozone ones in a row bad, even though they both tested good on autozones test station.

I'm going to get a Actual AC Delco one and install that. Hopefully that fixes all my issues. If not I'm completely lost and out of ideas.
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Old Jul 26, 2007 | 12:22 PM
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All you're going to do is end up smoking another alternator. You've got a wiring problem somewhere. I still think you've got a bad ground or a short to ground somewhere. Don't think this would matter, but has the battery been replaced recently or have you had it load tested? Do you have any other wierd electrical problems or blown fuses?
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Old Jul 26, 2007 | 01:34 PM
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Originally Posted by Mike44138
All you're going to do is end up smoking another alternator. You've got a wiring problem somewhere. I still think you've got a bad ground or a short to ground somewhere. Don't think this would matter, but has the battery been replaced recently or have you had it load tested? Do you have any other wierd electrical problems or blown fuses?
Yes it is a brand new battery. I also tried another good battery as a test also. I have checked and cleaned just about every possible ground on the car, all the major ones for sure. I checked every fuse in the car, both under the hood, and inside the car, and none of them are blown.
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Old Jul 26, 2007 | 01:37 PM
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Next thing I would do is pull the battery cables off and test the hot lines at the alternator and fusible links for continuity to ground. If you see any abnormally low readings I'd investigate the wiring.
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