U-joints
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 36
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From: florida
U-joints my U-joints are bad i believe because when im crusing down the road with the car in neutral (coasting to a red light or something like that) i hear a light ticking, pretty rapidly and it sounds like u joints. my jeep and work truck had bad u joints and they would make the same noise. my question is how hard are they to replace and would i be better of going to a stealership/tranny shop?
http://webpages.charter.net/pjunion/...ed-9901155.pdf
Included are Spicer, Neapco and Performance Dynamics (Neapco's high end joint) parts numbers for all different applications as well as conversion ujoints. For the stock fbody shaft, you need 3R (S44) joints. I would also recommend using a coated ujoint made for aluminum driveshafts to minimize the chance of galvanic corrosion between two dissimilar metals. Also, I was also told -not- to use Neapco's Brute Force line of ujoints, as they are not a very good joint and have inferior bearings. These Brute Force ujoints are found at a lot of discount auto parts stores and have a 'BF' at the end of the Neapco part number I believe.
Included are Spicer, Neapco and Performance Dynamics (Neapco's high end joint) parts numbers for all different applications as well as conversion ujoints. For the stock fbody shaft, you need 3R (S44) joints. I would also recommend using a coated ujoint made for aluminum driveshafts to minimize the chance of galvanic corrosion between two dissimilar metals. Also, I was also told -not- to use Neapco's Brute Force line of ujoints, as they are not a very good joint and have inferior bearings. These Brute Force ujoints are found at a lot of discount auto parts stores and have a 'BF' at the end of the Neapco part number I believe.
