Ran out of gas, please help
Last edited by Wez28; Oct 16, 2007 at 11:53 PM. Reason: typo's
TIP: If your not real worried about it cut a hole above the tank so you dont have to take the tank down. its pretty easy and it doesnt take much to get some scrap sheet metal and rivet it in its place.
well maybe not walk) When you turn the key on - but not cranking to start, do you hear the fuel pump whine for 2 or 3 seconds? This sound and checking for fuel at the rail will tell you if your fuel pump is working and if there is fuel pressure to the injectors. If you check for fuel at the schrader valve in the engine compartment, have a rag ready as the gasoline should spray out with gusto out when you depress the valve core.
Before replacing a pump, first determine if there is power to it; which gets a little more involved.
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TIP: If your not real worried about it cut a hole above the tank so you dont have to take the tank down. its pretty easy and it doesnt take much to get some scrap sheet metal and rivet it in its place.[/QUOTE]
After my regulator went out.. I did the same thing. After it is back in and the carpet down, cant even tell.
If you're lucky enough that your fuel pump is stuck and not burned out, try this:
This requires TWO PEOPLE! Get a friend to stand by the gas door near the fuel pump. As you're starting the car, have him smack the side of the gas tank. You have to do this while the car is cranking. Give it a shot and see if it works.
If the tiny check valve does not hold gasoline within the motor when the fuel level is below the top of the motor, there will be a stagnant space left inside the pump. This would remove the arc dampening effect of the gasoline flow over the brush / commutator assembly. Here, I believe is where the motor damage begins to occur as the arcing quickly erodes the electrified contact surfaces. This is where the localized heating might occur. I don't believe these pumps get hot throughout. I could not get my pump to heat up when it was running for several minutes outside of gasoline.
I am writing this because after dismantling the pump and motor, the cause of the failure was one brush in very good shape with its counterpart all but completely eroded away - the little tensioning spring extended, barely making contact. Consequently the commutator was deeply grooved and worn away as well from the arcing effect. This was on a 65k mile pump with a missing check valve. I believe that little rubber flap of a check valve being absent at assembly or having later been consumed caused the premature failure of the pump and not running low on gas. I don't know for certain but in this case that is what it looks like.
Last edited by 01Z28M6; Oct 23, 2007 at 07:46 AM.
I don't understand why people have to run the tank down. You're gonna have to fill up eventually, anyway. Fill up at half a tank like I do. Your fuel filter must be SO CLOGGED, I hope you change it every 10,000 miles with all the sediment you're sucking out of the bottom of the tank.
The fourth gen f-body draws fuel from a bucket in the tank that holds about a quart of fuel. From there it's pumped to the engine. Fuel returning from the engine is also dumped back into the bucket so it remains full at all times regardless of how much fuel is in the tank. Because the fuel pump is located in the bucket it stays submerged in fuel at all times. Running it out of gas and then trying to start it can/will kill the pump though, I did it several years ago. Ran out of gas on an incline, gauge showed 1/8 tank so I tried to fire it. Spun the pump & killed it.
As far as sediment in the tank, any junk in your tank will always settle to the bottom, and regardless of how much fuel is in the tank the fuel pickup ALWAYS draws fuel from the bottom of the tank. You will not suck up any more crap from the last 1/16th tank than you will when it's full. Just FYI.
Last edited by jmm98LS1; Oct 23, 2007 at 11:19 AM.






