Another #8 Spark Plug Question.
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 34,627
Likes: 2,543
From: Schiller Park, ILL Member: #317
I've tried to go from underneath on my '98 car with stock manifolds & cats. I don't see how it's possibile.
The top is much easier, once the AIR tube is removed. I don't even remove the coils, it's too hard on the '98 cars since they're all individual. 
Teching In
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
When I changed mine I had more problems getting the wire off #8 then actually getting the plug out.... I took out all the the packs, and AIR tubes. That should give you some room. Then rest your left knee on the battery, right knee on the air intake box, and your left arm above the strut tower.
I used a plug socket, with a 1 inch extension, then a swivel extension, another short extension, then the actual ratchet. I found that the ratchet was too far down for me to get any leverage on it.... So I looked around my garage for some ideas... found a special wrench for tightening the chain on a chain saw. Its sorta looks like a tube (about 1/2 inch in diameter, and 4 inches long) with a metal rod on coming out of it. Kind of in an 'L' shape with the bottom of the L being the tube part. Still with me??? I slipped that on the end of the ratchet and it took me maybe 10 mins to change #8. The chain saw tool gave me the leverage I needed in the tight spot.
The only problem with this is that you will have no idea what kind of torque you are putting on the plug. I went on the side of being too light, and had too do it all over again two weeks later when it came loose.
I used a plug socket, with a 1 inch extension, then a swivel extension, another short extension, then the actual ratchet. I found that the ratchet was too far down for me to get any leverage on it.... So I looked around my garage for some ideas... found a special wrench for tightening the chain on a chain saw. Its sorta looks like a tube (about 1/2 inch in diameter, and 4 inches long) with a metal rod on coming out of it. Kind of in an 'L' shape with the bottom of the L being the tube part. Still with me??? I slipped that on the end of the ratchet and it took me maybe 10 mins to change #8. The chain saw tool gave me the leverage I needed in the tight spot.
The only problem with this is that you will have no idea what kind of torque you are putting on the plug. I went on the side of being too light, and had too do it all over again two weeks later when it came loose.
Thread Starter
TECH Apprentice
iTrader: (6)
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 388
Likes: 0
From: Houston, Texas
Any ideas what may be wrong if the spark plug socket wont line up with the plug anymore? I dont think it is stripped but is it possible to bend a plug in the head?
TECH Addict
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 2,379
Likes: 2
The end of the spark plug can be "screwed" on or off. It could be bent or loosened enough to interfere with the rubber grommet inside most spark plug sockets. Try the spark plug socket without the grommet inside.
Thread Starter
TECH Apprentice
iTrader: (6)
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 388
Likes: 0
From: Houston, Texas
I can feel the plug and up till about 1/2 way it feels normal but then its just like I can not feel anymore. And one guy that tried to help me out thinks that my grommet may be stuck at the end of the spark plug but its almost not possible for it to go up so far. My theory is that I put too much force and bent it which now is making it impossible to get the socket to line up in the head with the threads on the plug?
at worst you bent the end of the spark plug- the part the spark plug wire boot goes onto. That's nothing, put on a glove and reach back there and break the whole plug off. the only catch though if you do that is now you have to get the plug out and a new one in there.
The hex nut of the plug that's screwed into the head you are not going to hurt, so just break the whole plug tip off and get it out of the way. Reclaim your spark plug socket grommet if that was left on the plug. when removing the plugs take the grommet out of the spark plug socket.
I had a 99 camaro, and now have an 02. I've always done #8 (passenger side rear) from the top. If the plug has never been out, you might need a breaker bar for some leverage since you are on such and awkard reach angle to begin with.
All I've ever needed to change all 8 plugs was:
3/8" standard size ratchet (craftsman)
stubby 1.5" extension and normal 3" extension in 3/8" size
standard spark plug socket,
and about an 8" cut piece of 3/4" black pipe from home depot that I use as a breaker bar, get the thinnest piece that'll still fit over your rachet. I think when I've done #8 i've used the 1.5" stubby extension or no extension.
I take all the coil packs off, and i am able to position the ratchet and have maybe 30 deg of rotation possible, use the little breaker bar extension for leverage and the plug should come right out. I think it's harder getting the new plug for #8 threaded, then use the grommet in the spark plug socket and a 1.5" extension to give you the reach from the top.
The hex nut of the plug that's screwed into the head you are not going to hurt, so just break the whole plug tip off and get it out of the way. Reclaim your spark plug socket grommet if that was left on the plug. when removing the plugs take the grommet out of the spark plug socket.
I had a 99 camaro, and now have an 02. I've always done #8 (passenger side rear) from the top. If the plug has never been out, you might need a breaker bar for some leverage since you are on such and awkard reach angle to begin with.
All I've ever needed to change all 8 plugs was:
3/8" standard size ratchet (craftsman)
stubby 1.5" extension and normal 3" extension in 3/8" size
standard spark plug socket,
and about an 8" cut piece of 3/4" black pipe from home depot that I use as a breaker bar, get the thinnest piece that'll still fit over your rachet. I think when I've done #8 i've used the 1.5" stubby extension or no extension.
I take all the coil packs off, and i am able to position the ratchet and have maybe 30 deg of rotation possible, use the little breaker bar extension for leverage and the plug should come right out. I think it's harder getting the new plug for #8 threaded, then use the grommet in the spark plug socket and a 1.5" extension to give you the reach from the top.
LS1 Tech Stories
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
6 Common C5 Corvette Failures and What's Involved In Repairing Them
Pouria Savadkouei
Retro Modern Bandit Pontiac Trans AM Comes With Burt Reynolds' Autograph
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Greatest Cadillac V Series Performance Models Ever, Ranked
Pouria Savadkouei
Top 10 Most Powerful Chevy Trucks Ever Made!
Hennessey's New Supercharged Silverado ZR2 Has 700 HP
Verdad Gallardo
Coachbuilt N2A Anteros Is an LS2-Powered C6 Corvette In Italian Clothes
Verdad Gallardo
Awesome K5 Blazer Restomod Comes With C7 Corvette Power
Verdad Gallardo
10 Camaros You Should Never Buy
10 LS Engine Myths That Refuse to Die
Verdad Gallardo
for #8 I always jack up the passenger side, get underneath with a spark plug socket (the kind that has the end where you can get an open or box end wrench on it) and a 3/4(not exactly sure if thats the right size) boxed end wrench and i have never had any trouble with #8... hardest for me is #7...
Thread Starter
TECH Apprentice
iTrader: (6)
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 388
Likes: 0
From: Houston, Texas
I tried from the bottom but with my stock exhaust there is quite possibly no room to get to the plug.
A buddy is going to help me Sunday tackle this. A small piece of the ceramic on #8 is broken but the wire still attached to it and the car runs fine and on all 8 cylinders, but I have been hearing a small tick coming from back near #8 so I take it that it must need to come out asap. Either way the buddy going to help me has some sorta spark plug socket that is much smaller than normal for race car headers with little room to access them... I will keep this posted for Sunday when I get this problem fixed. Thanks
A buddy is going to help me Sunday tackle this. A small piece of the ceramic on #8 is broken but the wire still attached to it and the car runs fine and on all 8 cylinders, but I have been hearing a small tick coming from back near #8 so I take it that it must need to come out asap. Either way the buddy going to help me has some sorta spark plug socket that is much smaller than normal for race car headers with little room to access them... I will keep this posted for Sunday when I get this problem fixed. Thanks
Just changed my plugs last night. Took no time at all to change driver's side and first two on the pass. side. Number 7 wasn't too bad, had to put a small cheater bar on the ratchet, 8 was a lil stubborn to get out, but once I was able to figure out a way to get my big *** arm and hand up there, and also get a cheater bar on it, took nothing to get out. I had to go from the bottom for #8 and I have Pacesetter LT's. Took all of a mintue to put the new #8 back in.
Thread Starter
TECH Apprentice
iTrader: (6)
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 388
Likes: 0
From: Houston, Texas
Just changed my plugs last night. Took no time at all to change driver's side and first two on the pass. side. Number 7 wasn't too bad, had to put a small cheater bar on the ratchet, 8 was a lil stubborn to get out, but once I was able to figure out a way to get my big *** arm and hand up there, and also get a cheater bar on it, took nothing to get out. I had to go from the bottom for #8 and I have Pacesetter LT's. Took all of a mintue to put the new #8 back in.
TECH Apprentice
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 345
Likes: 1
From: TX
I did #8 on my 98 SS from the bottom and it sucked. Came up with a much better way to do #8 on my Z from the top:
http://www.camaroz28.com/forums/showthread.php?t=458308
Using this method, I didn't even have to actually touch the plug, just had to get the right angle & socket/adapter length so the socket would naturally fall in place. You can do the same with a swivel ratchet and the right extension. Just might have to use a cheater bar on the ratchet to help break it loose.
As far as the plug feeling wierd, sounds like you broke the ceramic and it's cocked to the side. The ticking is probably spark arcing to ground past the crack in the ceramic. In your place, I'd finish busting it or use a screwdriver to straighten it enough so I could get the socket on the plug hex. If you weren't on the other side of Texas I'd help you out with my tool combo, with you supplying the Buds if course.
http://www.camaroz28.com/forums/showthread.php?t=458308
Using this method, I didn't even have to actually touch the plug, just had to get the right angle & socket/adapter length so the socket would naturally fall in place. You can do the same with a swivel ratchet and the right extension. Just might have to use a cheater bar on the ratchet to help break it loose.
As far as the plug feeling wierd, sounds like you broke the ceramic and it's cocked to the side. The ticking is probably spark arcing to ground past the crack in the ceramic. In your place, I'd finish busting it or use a screwdriver to straighten it enough so I could get the socket on the plug hex. If you weren't on the other side of Texas I'd help you out with my tool combo, with you supplying the Buds if course.
Last edited by angel71rs; Nov 9, 2007 at 05:26 PM.
Thread Starter
TECH Apprentice
iTrader: (6)
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 388
Likes: 0
From: Houston, Texas
I did #8 on my 98 SS from the bottom and it sucked. Came up with a much better way to do #8 on my Z from the top:
http://www.camaroz28.com/forums/showthread.php?t=458308
Using this method, I didn't even have to actually touch the plug, just had to get the right angle & socket/adapter length so the socket would naturally fall in place. You can do the same with a swivel ratchet and the right extension. Just might have to use a cheater bar on the ratchet to help break it loose.
As far as the plug feeling wierd, sounds like you broke the ceramic and it's cocked to the side. The ticking is probably spark arcing to ground past the crack in the ceramic. In your place, I'd finish busting it or use a screwdriver to straighten it enough so I could get the socket on the plug hex. If you weren't on the other side of Texas I'd help you out with my tool combo, with you supplying the Buds if course.
http://www.camaroz28.com/forums/showthread.php?t=458308
Using this method, I didn't even have to actually touch the plug, just had to get the right angle & socket/adapter length so the socket would naturally fall in place. You can do the same with a swivel ratchet and the right extension. Just might have to use a cheater bar on the ratchet to help break it loose.
As far as the plug feeling wierd, sounds like you broke the ceramic and it's cocked to the side. The ticking is probably spark arcing to ground past the crack in the ceramic. In your place, I'd finish busting it or use a screwdriver to straighten it enough so I could get the socket on the plug hex. If you weren't on the other side of Texas I'd help you out with my tool combo, with you supplying the Buds if course.
Thread Starter
TECH Apprentice
iTrader: (6)
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 388
Likes: 0
From: Houston, Texas
So today went to a buddies house to help out, which he had all the right tools...
Come to find out, the autozone crap spark plug socket (5/8th) must be too big for #8 so with his special small socket from snap-on we got it off the 1st try. She now runs so much better and im glad I did not cause any damage like i suspected. Stock LS1 Power
!! So this being my 1st spark plug change on a LS1, I now know how to do it! 
Thanks to those who helped in the thread!
Come to find out, the autozone crap spark plug socket (5/8th) must be too big for #8 so with his special small socket from snap-on we got it off the 1st try. She now runs so much better and im glad I did not cause any damage like i suspected. Stock LS1 Power
!! So this being my 1st spark plug change on a LS1, I now know how to do it! Thanks to those who helped in the thread! 