Doing my own Maintenance.
Doing my own Maintenance. Since I just bought my current Camaro not too long ago and it is just about to roll around to 30k miles (and no more warranty on it) I plan on doing all of my fluid changes now. Some basic questions: (I did search)
The oil the previous owner put in the engine was regular Chevron dino oil, 5w30.
I want to change the M6 Tranny fluid and rear end fluid with the OEM fluids and additives.
I am however thinking of changing the motor oil to Mobile 1 full synthetic 5w30 since that was the weight used previously.
So for the list, Mobile one full syn. 5w30 for the engine; Dexron III ATF for the M6; and SAE 75W-90 Mobil 1 Synthetic Gear Lube + GM rear differential additive (since I have limited slip rear end.)
1) Does this sound like a good set up? I've read pros and cons on the mobile one full synth, but I have lower miles on my engien so I assume it would be ok, and I guess I just have to try it out as each case is unique.
2) Where is a good place to buy these fluids for the best buck? I'm assuming not all locations sell all of these products.
3) I'm going to change the engine oil every 3-4k miles or whenever it looks like i need to. However, how often should I change the tranny and rear end fluid? I don't trust how the lengthy time the manual says to change them fluids.
4) For the rear end diff cover, which sealer do you prefer? The gasket style sealer or the "sealer in a tube" that is like RTV? Any work better than the other?
Thanks and sorry, I'm a no00b, but plan on doing everything on my car now and take care of it as best as possible, where before I've just done oil changes.
The oil the previous owner put in the engine was regular Chevron dino oil, 5w30.
I want to change the M6 Tranny fluid and rear end fluid with the OEM fluids and additives.
I am however thinking of changing the motor oil to Mobile 1 full synthetic 5w30 since that was the weight used previously.
So for the list, Mobile one full syn. 5w30 for the engine; Dexron III ATF for the M6; and SAE 75W-90 Mobil 1 Synthetic Gear Lube + GM rear differential additive (since I have limited slip rear end.)
1) Does this sound like a good set up? I've read pros and cons on the mobile one full synth, but I have lower miles on my engien so I assume it would be ok, and I guess I just have to try it out as each case is unique.
2) Where is a good place to buy these fluids for the best buck? I'm assuming not all locations sell all of these products.
3) I'm going to change the engine oil every 3-4k miles or whenever it looks like i need to. However, how often should I change the tranny and rear end fluid? I don't trust how the lengthy time the manual says to change them fluids.
4) For the rear end diff cover, which sealer do you prefer? The gasket style sealer or the "sealer in a tube" that is like RTV? Any work better than the other?
Thanks and sorry, I'm a no00b, but plan on doing everything on my car now and take care of it as best as possible, where before I've just done oil changes.
So for the list, Mobile one full syn. 5w30 for the engine; Dexron III ATF for the M6; and SAE 75W-90 Mobil 1 Synthetic Gear Lube + GM rear differential additive (since I have limited slip rear end.)
1) Does this sound like a good set up? I've read pros and cons on the mobile one full synth, but I have lower miles on my engien so I assume it would be ok, and I guess I just have to try it out as each case is unique.
2) Where is a good place to buy these fluids for the best buck? I'm assuming not all locations sell all of these products.
3) I'm going to change the engine oil every 3-4k miles or whenever it looks like i need to. However, how often should I change the tranny and rear end fluid? I don't trust how the lengthy time the manual says to change them fluids.
4) For the rear end diff cover, which sealer do you prefer? The gasket style sealer or the "sealer in a tube" that is like RTV? Any work better than the other?
1) Does this sound like a good set up? I've read pros and cons on the mobile one full synth, but I have lower miles on my engien so I assume it would be ok, and I guess I just have to try it out as each case is unique.
2) Where is a good place to buy these fluids for the best buck? I'm assuming not all locations sell all of these products.
3) I'm going to change the engine oil every 3-4k miles or whenever it looks like i need to. However, how often should I change the tranny and rear end fluid? I don't trust how the lengthy time the manual says to change them fluids.
4) For the rear end diff cover, which sealer do you prefer? The gasket style sealer or the "sealer in a tube" that is like RTV? Any work better than the other?
1) Yes, your engine will not be hurt by switching to synthetic.
2) Walmart will be the cheapest, they probably do not carry gear oil and limited slip fluid.
3) I change my rear end and tranny fluid every 10k.
4) On the rear cover i used the gasket and a little bit of rtv to hold it in place. You might consider investing in a rear end cover early,makes rear end fluid changes a breeze and you never have to bust the cover off. Also strengthens the rear end slightly.
Here's how to link for oil,gear,tranny fluid changes.
http://www.bfranker.badz28.com/fbody/lubeoil.htm
Awesome, and thanks for the input!
Also, what aftermarket rear end cover works well? I believe installuniversity.com installed a aftermarket cover with a drain plug, but in the end they never used it due to some reason or another...
Also, what aftermarket rear end cover works well? I believe installuniversity.com installed a aftermarket cover with a drain plug, but in the end they never used it due to some reason or another...
For what it's worth, people who study used oil have nothing good to say about Mobil 1, and Mobil 1 5W30 in particular. If you do some searching you can probabaly find more info. Most people's preferred synthetic oil for LS1s is Castrol Syntec 0W30 European Formula, often referred to as simply GC. The key is that the bottle must say "Made in Germany".
Are there any other recommendations on the motor oil?
I'm wondering if I should just stick to regular dino oil... And I'd like to stick with 5w30 weight if possible.
I'm wondering if I should just stick to regular dino oil... And I'd like to stick with 5w30 weight if possible.
I plan on getting all this at once a day before work so I don't have to make more than one trip. What 5w30 synthetic is good out there? I've been hearing bad things about Mobile 1 lately.. a whole lot of it. Any other recommendations or should I just stick with Chevron?
So get this...
I wake up this morning and my mother happens to be at my house since she was in the area and was going to work. She must have overheard a conversation I had or something because she says "Hey, I just bought you an early Christmas present. It's upstairs."
I walk upstairs to find two packages of Mobile 1 Full Synthetic 5w30 Motor Oil (12 qt. containers in all.)
It was pretty cool. Unfortunately now I hear this oil isn't that good... (This usually happens... I hear amazing things then right before I get it due to high remarks then I hear all the bad... lol)
I kind of have to use the stuff now!
I wake up this morning and my mother happens to be at my house since she was in the area and was going to work. She must have overheard a conversation I had or something because she says "Hey, I just bought you an early Christmas present. It's upstairs."
I walk upstairs to find two packages of Mobile 1 Full Synthetic 5w30 Motor Oil (12 qt. containers in all.)
It was pretty cool. Unfortunately now I hear this oil isn't that good... (This usually happens... I hear amazing things then right before I get it due to high remarks then I hear all the bad... lol)
I kind of have to use the stuff now!
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Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 1,419
Likes: 1
From: Holland Twp/Milford, New Jersey
people on here tend to make things sound worse than they actually are. they make it sound like Mobil 1 will dry rot the engine internals or something. Mobil 1 is not BAD! there are just better oils, but you'll be spending a pretty penny for them. that's great that your mother bought you 2 cases of M1! use it! it's cheap, and does what oil is supposed to do. just make sure you use a good oil filter! now THAT's important! as for the transmission fluid and rear end fluid, the book claims they can be changed every 50,000 mi, but i cut that in half... but that's just me. and the pumpkin cover: a felpro gasket from the auto store will be fine. i don't recommend RTV sealant because it just makes a mess and it's a PIA to work with. you CAN get a different pumpkin cover if you want fluid changes to be easier, but you'll have to change the gasket eventually anyway, so i don't think it's worth the money. spend it elsewhere. good luck and continue to take care of her!
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Launching!
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 297
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In no particular order:
1. Walmart for cheap motor oil
2. Unless somethign major has happened recently, M1 is awesome. The LS1 enginge is fantastic, but it's also not a 10,000 rpm redline LeMans racing engine. You don't need anything better than M1. You also want to stick with synth, because form what I hear, it's best for minimizing the infamous "lifter tick."
3. I recently bought the car in my sig. It's rear end fluid was changed every ~25k miles (20/52/78). I've had no problems or worries about it and according to the previous owner, when it was serviced at the 52k mark, the tech said the rear gears and diff had some of the best wear he's seen (for what that's worth).
1. Walmart for cheap motor oil
2. Unless somethign major has happened recently, M1 is awesome. The LS1 enginge is fantastic, but it's also not a 10,000 rpm redline LeMans racing engine. You don't need anything better than M1. You also want to stick with synth, because form what I hear, it's best for minimizing the infamous "lifter tick."
3. I recently bought the car in my sig. It's rear end fluid was changed every ~25k miles (20/52/78). I've had no problems or worries about it and according to the previous owner, when it was serviced at the 52k mark, the tech said the rear gears and diff had some of the best wear he's seen (for what that's worth).
I agree with the above posts. Use the Mobile 1 that you have. After it's used up, try the German Castrol if you can get it for a reasonable price.
After break in, I used M1 10-30W (it's hot here in Vegas) for 5 years with good results. I switched to German Castrol 0-30W at the last change, and the motor seems to like that better.
SDM1234 nailed it with the suggestion to use a decent oil filter. Fram is the worst, K&N is the best. The Mobil 1 oil filter filters well but doesn't flow well enough in our engines.
There are a number of other filters out there that perform well for less money than the M1 or K&N - do a search. The Wallmart Supertech performed well in past tests, but they have changed their design, and I've not seen any test results of the new design. If you remove or install your oil filter by hand, be careful as the filter is close to other stuff. I've ripped a fingernail off of my gorilla paws by just grabbing and rotating. Only did that once.
Do a search on K&N air filters before you even think of buying one. If you have the stock lid, check for an air gap at the back end of the lid the next time you change the air filter. I've seen this gap on a number of intakes. Getting unfiltered air in there will negage a lot of the good things you do for maintenance.
After break in, I used M1 10-30W (it's hot here in Vegas) for 5 years with good results. I switched to German Castrol 0-30W at the last change, and the motor seems to like that better.
SDM1234 nailed it with the suggestion to use a decent oil filter. Fram is the worst, K&N is the best. The Mobil 1 oil filter filters well but doesn't flow well enough in our engines.
There are a number of other filters out there that perform well for less money than the M1 or K&N - do a search. The Wallmart Supertech performed well in past tests, but they have changed their design, and I've not seen any test results of the new design. If you remove or install your oil filter by hand, be careful as the filter is close to other stuff. I've ripped a fingernail off of my gorilla paws by just grabbing and rotating. Only did that once.
Do a search on K&N air filters before you even think of buying one. If you have the stock lid, check for an air gap at the back end of the lid the next time you change the air filter. I've seen this gap on a number of intakes. Getting unfiltered air in there will negage a lot of the good things you do for maintenance.
In no particular order:
1. Walmart for cheap motor oil
2. Unless somethign major has happened recently, M1 is awesome. The LS1 enginge is fantastic, but it's also not a 10,000 rpm redline LeMans racing engine. You don't need anything better than M1. You also want to stick with synth, because form what I hear, it's best for minimizing the infamous "lifter tick."
3. I recently bought the car in my sig. It's rear end fluid was changed every ~25k miles (20/52/78). I've had no problems or worries about it and according to the previous owner, when it was serviced at the 52k mark, the tech said the rear gears and diff had some of the best wear he's seen (for what that's worth).
1. Walmart for cheap motor oil
2. Unless somethign major has happened recently, M1 is awesome. The LS1 enginge is fantastic, but it's also not a 10,000 rpm redline LeMans racing engine. You don't need anything better than M1. You also want to stick with synth, because form what I hear, it's best for minimizing the infamous "lifter tick."
3. I recently bought the car in my sig. It's rear end fluid was changed every ~25k miles (20/52/78). I've had no problems or worries about it and according to the previous owner, when it was serviced at the 52k mark, the tech said the rear gears and diff had some of the best wear he's seen (for what that's worth).
I agree with the above posts. Use the Mobile 1 that you have. After it's used up, try the German Castrol if you can get it for a reasonable price.
After break in, I used M1 10-30W (it's hot here in Vegas) for 5 years with good results. I switched to German Castrol 0-30W at the last change, and the motor seems to like that better.
SDM1234 nailed it with the suggestion to use a decent oil filter. Fram is the worst, K&N is the best. The Mobil 1 oil filter filters well but doesn't flow well enough in our engines.
There are a number of other filters out there that perform well for less money than the M1 or K&N - do a search. The Wallmart Supertech performed well in past tests, but they have changed their design, and I've not seen any test results of the new design. If you remove or install your oil filter by hand, be careful as the filter is close to other stuff. I've ripped a fingernail off of my gorilla paws by just grabbing and rotating. Only did that once.
Do a search on K&N air filters before you even think of buying one. If you have the stock lid, check for an air gap at the back end of the lid the next time you change the air filter. I've seen this gap on a number of intakes. Getting unfiltered air in there will negage a lot of the good things you do for maintenance.
After break in, I used M1 10-30W (it's hot here in Vegas) for 5 years with good results. I switched to German Castrol 0-30W at the last change, and the motor seems to like that better.
SDM1234 nailed it with the suggestion to use a decent oil filter. Fram is the worst, K&N is the best. The Mobil 1 oil filter filters well but doesn't flow well enough in our engines.
There are a number of other filters out there that perform well for less money than the M1 or K&N - do a search. The Wallmart Supertech performed well in past tests, but they have changed their design, and I've not seen any test results of the new design. If you remove or install your oil filter by hand, be careful as the filter is close to other stuff. I've ripped a fingernail off of my gorilla paws by just grabbing and rotating. Only did that once.
Do a search on K&N air filters before you even think of buying one. If you have the stock lid, check for an air gap at the back end of the lid the next time you change the air filter. I've seen this gap on a number of intakes. Getting unfiltered air in there will negage a lot of the good things you do for maintenance.
I also have a lid, and use the OEM paper air filters. I see/have no need for a aftermarket K&N.
Also, to fuseone and NDFORSPD, I forgot to add that I plan to keep up on the brake and hydraulic fluids. I plan on doing what this guy recommended every time I do an oil change:
http://www.rangeracceleration.com/Clutch_Care.html
I think I should be good to go! I like taking care of my fuel ****
Thanks guys
TECH Apprentice
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 345
Likes: 1
From: TX
On the filter: whatever brand you decide on, recommend you use the longer truck filter. More filter area, same price, then when you use 6 quarts instead of 5.5, it ends up at just about the right level. I prefer the K&N, not just because it's an excellent filter, but it also has a nut on the end that makes it easy to remove/replace the filter. Filter is recessed into the oilpan casting on LS1s, not out there easier to get to like on classic SBCs.
Unless you tow trailers, live in the desert, or race the thing, you shouldn't have to worry about transmission or diff fluid at 30K miles. You can check thier levels through the test holes with a pipe cleaner to make sure the wells are full and you don't have any leaks. (You will also have a hell of a time changing these fluids unless you have a hydraulic lift!)
Mobil 1 is perfectly fine (and will perform better than dino oil) if you are using your car as a street car! GM fills all of thier LS1s at the factory with it and tests thier cars with it over hundreds of thousands of miles. Unless you race your car, there is (hopefully) nothing you will do that will exceed what GM has done to thier F-bodies and Corvette mules over the past decade.
For your first delivery, you should do an oil change and then you can use the oil life monitor built in to the car to tell you when the oil needs to be changed. (Check out the owners manual.) Depending on how I drive, my monitor signals an oil change every 3K-7K. (using synthetic oil)
Given your car's age, you should invest in replacing the coolant! It will be all full of junk by now. Also check the fluid to make sure there isn't anything other than rust in there. The Camaro SS has an in-line power steering cooler that can leak fluid in to the cooling lines.
Mobil 1 is perfectly fine (and will perform better than dino oil) if you are using your car as a street car! GM fills all of thier LS1s at the factory with it and tests thier cars with it over hundreds of thousands of miles. Unless you race your car, there is (hopefully) nothing you will do that will exceed what GM has done to thier F-bodies and Corvette mules over the past decade.
For your first delivery, you should do an oil change and then you can use the oil life monitor built in to the car to tell you when the oil needs to be changed. (Check out the owners manual.) Depending on how I drive, my monitor signals an oil change every 3K-7K. (using synthetic oil)
Given your car's age, you should invest in replacing the coolant! It will be all full of junk by now. Also check the fluid to make sure there isn't anything other than rust in there. The Camaro SS has an in-line power steering cooler that can leak fluid in to the cooling lines.
Thanks guys.
I still would like to replace the rear end and tranny fluids every 30k or so. It is not raced and is a DD, but come summertime I do have fun it in and plan to g oto a few AutoX's.
I'll also check on replacing my coolant. Any recommended sites for DIY/Information on how to do it? I read the manual but you never know... there is a lot of other knowledge out there.
I still would like to replace the rear end and tranny fluids every 30k or so. It is not raced and is a DD, but come summertime I do have fun it in and plan to g oto a few AutoX's.
I'll also check on replacing my coolant. Any recommended sites for DIY/Information on how to do it? I read the manual but you never know... there is a lot of other knowledge out there.
http://www.installuniversity.com/ins...sity/index.htm look for 160 degree thermostat change (install docs on the left side)...just don't do the thermostat part of it, do steps 1-4 and 17-19 i believe
Thanks Chavez!
Also, instead of making a new thread about this, I'll just ask it here:
My Dad and I were looking through his car stuff, and two of the fluids he had bought within the last year include Chevron ATF (MD-3) https://www.cbest.chevron.com/genera.../PDS767626.PDF and Prestone Synthetic (DOT - 3) brake fluid.
I was wondering if these will work for what I previously was going to purchase since he does not need them.
I am pretty sure the Chevron ATF is exactly what I need, it just doesn't say "DEXRON III" even though it says on the back of the bottle to use this for DEXRON recommended transmissions.
And for the Brake fluid: I plan on doing the clutch hydraulic maintenance as I previously linked you guys to ( http://www.rangeracceleration.com/Clutch_Care.html ) So I'd need to mix the Synth. Prestone with whatever stock fluids are in the hydraulics now. I know the Prestone itself is fine for use with the system, but I wanted to know if it was ok to use it mixed with the fluids that are already in the car (since mixing the fluids will occur when refilling the reservoir, of course.
Thanks and that should finish it off!
Also, instead of making a new thread about this, I'll just ask it here:
My Dad and I were looking through his car stuff, and two of the fluids he had bought within the last year include Chevron ATF (MD-3) https://www.cbest.chevron.com/genera.../PDS767626.PDF and Prestone Synthetic (DOT - 3) brake fluid.
I was wondering if these will work for what I previously was going to purchase since he does not need them.
I am pretty sure the Chevron ATF is exactly what I need, it just doesn't say "DEXRON III" even though it says on the back of the bottle to use this for DEXRON recommended transmissions.
And for the Brake fluid: I plan on doing the clutch hydraulic maintenance as I previously linked you guys to ( http://www.rangeracceleration.com/Clutch_Care.html ) So I'd need to mix the Synth. Prestone with whatever stock fluids are in the hydraulics now. I know the Prestone itself is fine for use with the system, but I wanted to know if it was ok to use it mixed with the fluids that are already in the car (since mixing the fluids will occur when refilling the reservoir, of course.
Thanks and that should finish it off!