venomhp

iTrader: (13)

OBD2 i think its from 97 up, and some 96's

nddragon01

Yeah, this is what I would have suggested first (I use my scanner all the time to save the hastle of finding a shop to scan codes for me), but I figured they didn't want to spend the extra dough on getting one, since they seem to be all about buying parts and changing them at random...

onecrazygm

iTrader: (8)

ok guys mine is also doing the same thing , check your egr most likely if it stubles at idle and runs fine up top egr comes into play as well as o2's wires and ect, mine was caused by the egr tube being bent metering unmeasured air , since it was cracked .the egr only functions at idle or when warm sending in burst of exhuast gases to cool the chamber ... causing my stumble hoope that helps

lickey7

mine had a similar problem but it would backfire and shut off, turned out to be the crankshaft angle sensor

redramair98

iTrader: (74)

ever fix it?

sexxyitalian86

All your replys freaking crack me up... Yes I know it was my bad to not have it scanned why i didnt think about that dont ask ok... Im blonde and just was to stubborn... But other than that I did have it scanned and the codes were p0131, 0134 pretty much boiling down to the ******* 02 sensor.... at least i got that other **** changed,,,, so **** it. haha! the codes saying pretty much o2 sensor 1 in bank one has low voltage, so in call defective sensor.. I was told it was located near the exhaust manifold in front of the engine.. I have a chiltons auto manual.. .Just if anyone has easier instructions that would be great.. btw thanks for all the replys made my day... hahahah! and to answer the last post **** no i didnt get it fixed im a stubborn bitch who works waaay to much and cant drive anyways now that im suspended haha! Lifes a bitch but i guess thats what makes it interesting ;-)

xox Megan.... look forward to a reply!

nddragon01

'Sup Megan. Here's your reply.

The O2 is up in the engine bay, just below where the manifold comes to one pipe (you're looking for the driver's side one between the cat and the engine). Should be pretty obvious...look for a cylinder piece of metal with wires coming out of the end of it, sticking out of the exhaust manifold pipe near the engine. Wrench it out (if it's not frozen in place over time) and replace - the wires should unplug from the engine harness. Piece of cake.

sexxyitalian86

Ok we changed o2 sensor 1 on drivers side... the piece was all black and when i shook it it rattled... turn the car on and still the car smells and sounds like it did still.... and light flashes.. the codes it thorugh were exactly what we fixed and said nothing about anything else... could it be a vacumme leak that causes all this.. wtf do i do???? I dont have the money to throw around likke i am anyone please help..... my step dad thinks all this could be cause water in the tank also... im in need of help...thanks

nddragon01

I don't think it's water in the tank, unless you poured some water in there or got some shitty gas from a station. Nevertheless, buy 3-4 bottles of dry gas from Autozone and add it all at once to your tank. It's a very cheap way to try and take care of the problem if it is water in the tank. Shouldn't cost more than 10 bones.

If that's not it and it's still giving you the codes for the bank 1 sensor 1 O2 and you've already changed it, I'd say start looking at the wires running from the O2 to the PCM...The harness may have gotten fried along that wire. If that's the case, you can re-wire the O2 directly to the PCM with some heavy gauge wire from Autozone or Home Depot (Autozone is cheaper for wire). It'll be a little complicated and your engine bay may not be as dressy as before, but the car will work then.

sexxyitalian86

Ok too all of you who tried to help i appreciate it.... I finally broke and took it to a damn shop... They were really cool and nice and turns out all it was was a coil pack for 2&5 cylinders... OMG I had thought to do that and never did, so i just payed the 100$ and drove off good as new.... relief YES! the part was 57.00 and the labor 37.00 too me well worth it just to have it fixed and out of my head! My car has power again! thanks again everyone!

tording99Z28

iTrader: (3)

Very odd that if it was a coilpack it was not throwing a misfire code like a PO300 through a PO308 especially since the SES light was flashing too but glad you got it taken care of.

sexxyitalian86

oh i know i didnt understand that either, kinda of frustrating but glad it was figured out.

ghardester

Refering to the coil pack for 2 & 5 cylinders. Does that mean we have been talking about the V-6 with the 3 coils?

PMCSPIDER

iTrader: (1)

I got the same issues w/ mine. I scanned it w/ my deal and I am running the following SES':

0305-I know I prob need to replace the damn coil pack/ignition coil on Cyl #5
0704-I need to replace the O2 sensors.

PMCSPIDER

iTrader: (1)

I may be wrong, but the EGR valve doesnt sound like it would have caused these symptoms. I currently have the same systems, and will switch out my O2's (pre-cat) and the wires with MDS ones. I have an '01 WS6 and they came w/o an EGR valve, so that is what I am basing my opinion on. Just my opinion though.

Drumer919

iTrader: (2)

A flashing CEL/SES simply means there is a catalyst damaging event setting a code.

SpaZMaN

iTrader: (5)

Arise Thread! Arise!!!

mrnorm_hemicide

iTrader: (17)

A flashing SES light is an indicator that there is a problem that can cause damage to the cats. This can be a serious misfire(s), a clogged cat, detonation, etc. But the flashing MIL is just telling you that the problem is serious enough to destory the cats and to pull the car over and shut it off asap.