P0704 Clutch Switch Input Circuit Malfunction
08-05-2010, 08:05 AM
#21
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just wanted to say thank you to this thread. i googled p0704 and this came up. coincidently my cruise control was not working either. well i did the fix in this thread and my light is still on, but my cruise works, so im sure the light will go off after i drive it a bit. once again, LS1Tech ******* rules! thx guys!
08-28-2010, 07:53 PM
#22
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Yay for me. I did a search and found this. Mine threw a code a couple of weeks ago after I adjusted my Tick MC. I had my friend clear the code for me and It came back last night. I will adjust the switch tomorrow and see if that fixes it. Thanks.
01-24-2011, 03:31 PM
#23
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wow this was like one of the first threads i ever started on here. since a couple of you recently had this problem and got here by searching i suppose i should update what i did to fix it as i never did say in here (what a shitty OP lol). I just ordered a new clutch input switch from the stealership, it goes right behind the clutch pedal. It is the part that only allows the car to start in gear with clutch depressed. After posting this thread a few times the car just wouldnt start until i tried the clutch a few times in a row. after i put in the new clutch input switch (plug and play simple) everything was good, although damn cruise still didnt work. Anyway there it is for anyone that searches this as a reference!
10-17-2011, 04:00 PM
#24
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Re: P0704 Clutch Switch Input Circuit Malfunction Here is a bit unusual reason for this problem:
I have an Opel Vectra B 1999 with X20DTL engine. I had problems with the gears - it was hard to shift to 1 or R. Sometimes it wouldn't shift at all. The situation deteriorated and one day I could not shift to any gear and the car was unusable. The OP-COM diagnostics said:
P0704 - Clutch Switch Input Circuit Malfunction
I don't have cruise control. I bought a new switch - and measured its resistance with a multimeter: <1 resistance when the switch is is depressed and infinite resistance when it's not. The old switch had the same behaviour and I was not surprised that the problem persisted after I changed the switch.
At the same time I could see that the clutch pedal was visibly lower than it should be. In fact it was lower than the brake. I took the car to service and they said it was one of the hydraulic pumps of the clutch. They said it didn't provide any pressure and that w/o it the clutch did not detach at all and that's why I could not shift the gear, when the engine is running (yes I could shift the gear with the engine stopped)
So sometimes what the diagnostics show might be an indirect effect of another problem.
I have an Opel Vectra B 1999 with X20DTL engine. I had problems with the gears - it was hard to shift to 1 or R. Sometimes it wouldn't shift at all. The situation deteriorated and one day I could not shift to any gear and the car was unusable. The OP-COM diagnostics said:
P0704 - Clutch Switch Input Circuit Malfunction
I don't have cruise control. I bought a new switch - and measured its resistance with a multimeter: <1 resistance when the switch is is depressed and infinite resistance when it's not. The old switch had the same behaviour and I was not surprised that the problem persisted after I changed the switch.
At the same time I could see that the clutch pedal was visibly lower than it should be. In fact it was lower than the brake. I took the car to service and they said it was one of the hydraulic pumps of the clutch. They said it didn't provide any pressure and that w/o it the clutch did not detach at all and that's why I could not shift the gear, when the engine is running (yes I could shift the gear with the engine stopped)
So sometimes what the diagnostics show might be an indirect effect of another problem.
05-16-2012, 01:56 PM
#25
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trams am 2000 clutch Thanks for the advice on the clutch switch. Changes master and did drill mod and got the code. I checked and adjusted. Have not tried it yet but would be sure that is the problem since it was not doubt not hitting new pedal adjustment. The drill mod is also the best thing ever to that clutch. Never shifted so smooth.
05-16-2012, 02:28 PM
#26
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The tick performance master cylinder is ftw. Never needed drill mod with that. I put a monster clutch in my car which is ten time more aggressive than stock and it the clutch pedal is smoother with that master.
Atleast the search function for this code gave me this thread and alot more.
02-02-2014, 01:32 PM
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Yes ancient thread, but strangely enough, my switch has not worked for 8 years, and I NEVER, EVER had an SES light, or code (pending, stored or otherwise) from this. 
(And NO, it was never 'written out' either!)
I wish my 1133/1153 codes did not throw like this one didn't.
(And NO, it was never 'written out' either!)
I wish my 1133/1153 codes did not throw like this one didn't.
08-12-2014, 11:16 AM
#30
Previous owner installed an LS7 clutch and a Tick master. Just got a tune, and this code starting flashing no more than 25 miles later. I just completed this change and will drive it around for a while to see if it goes off. Any idea how long I should wait until the SES light goes away? Easy to do, just a PITA to get your hands in there.
08-12-2014, 11:28 AM
#31
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Previous owner installed an LS7 clutch and a Tick master. Just got a tune, and this code starting flashing no more than 25 miles later. I just completed this change and will drive it around for a while to see if it goes off. Any idea how long I should wait until the SES light goes away? Easy to do, just a PITA to get your hands in there.
08-22-2014, 06:23 AM
#33
Yes ancient thread, but strangely enough, my switch has not worked for 8 years, and I NEVER, EVER had an SES light, or code (pending, stored or otherwise) from this.
(And NO, it was never 'written out' either!)
I wish my 1133/1153 codes did not throw like this one didn't.
(And NO, it was never 'written out' either!)
I wish my 1133/1153 codes did not throw like this one didn't.
I did my clutch and Tick MC back in 2010 and my MWC 9" about 6 months later. For a brief minute I threw a code for a wheel speed sensor and it went away. My cruise control hasn't worked in over 4 years now. Not a single code was thrown but I assumed the wheel sensor was acting funny and not letting the cruise work. Well, for the last 6 months I've been getting the 1133/1153 02 codes. I check them with my Interceptor gauge and just clear them for now. But I ALWAYS "GET DTC" before I clear them. Checked yesterday and the P0704 code was there with the other 2 codes. Found this thread and made the adjustment and now the cruise works. YES!!!
Even though I use my cruise control twice a year, on the 300 mile round trip to Trans Am Nationals it's great to have. Nice thread here!!! 
