Engine Tick!!!! Help~!!!-VIDEO
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From: RAF Lakenheath, United Kingdom
Engine Tick!!!! Help~!!!-VIDEO Warm Start Video- http://s123.photobucket.com/albums/o...=camaro001.flv
Cold Start Video....
http://s123.photobucket.com/albums/o...=camaro002.flv
I have a ticking noise coming from my 2002 z28. I already pulled my valve covers and checked my springs, rockers, and pushrods and they were all in tact and just fine. I have done my research and I hear about this O-ring on the oil pump that makes a noise. I checked my spark plugs and made sure everything was tight. I know it is not normal piston slap so I thought about a lifter.... The problem... I leave to Korea in a couple months and my car has to go from NC to NY before I go. I need to bring it home safely and driving it would be easier than shipping it. I would pull my heads to check my lifters but I have stock exhaust manifolds so pulling the heads would be more of a pain considering trying to re-install stock exhaust manifolds.... I changed my oil and there was no metal or flakes in the oil so that was a good sign and I put in a quart of marvel mystery oil and no luck. If it was a lifter it would get louder with more rpms and it seems to go away at about 2500 rpm's. I feel no loss of power and my oil pressure reads 60 at idle. I had a low coolant issue and when my temp spiked the noise went away.. I have no idea how that could be affecting the noise but it did it twice to me. Please help as time is of the essence for me. Any input is well appreciated...
Cold Start Video....
http://s123.photobucket.com/albums/o...=camaro002.flv
I have a ticking noise coming from my 2002 z28. I already pulled my valve covers and checked my springs, rockers, and pushrods and they were all in tact and just fine. I have done my research and I hear about this O-ring on the oil pump that makes a noise. I checked my spark plugs and made sure everything was tight. I know it is not normal piston slap so I thought about a lifter.... The problem... I leave to Korea in a couple months and my car has to go from NC to NY before I go. I need to bring it home safely and driving it would be easier than shipping it. I would pull my heads to check my lifters but I have stock exhaust manifolds so pulling the heads would be more of a pain considering trying to re-install stock exhaust manifolds.... I changed my oil and there was no metal or flakes in the oil so that was a good sign and I put in a quart of marvel mystery oil and no luck. If it was a lifter it would get louder with more rpms and it seems to go away at about 2500 rpm's. I feel no loss of power and my oil pressure reads 60 at idle. I had a low coolant issue and when my temp spiked the noise went away.. I have no idea how that could be affecting the noise but it did it twice to me. Please help as time is of the essence for me. Any input is well appreciated...
Dude my LT1 did this. Was a cracked manifold. Would get quieter as it got hotter due to the manifold expanding from the heat, and the crack closing up somewhat.
Not saying this is what you have but it darn well could be, especially considering that when the temp spiked it got quieter.
Good luck man..
Just call it a great excuse to do LTs.
Not saying this is what you have but it darn well could be, especially considering that when the temp spiked it got quieter.
Good luck man..
Just call it a great excuse to do LTs.
Warm Start Video- http://s123.photobucket.com/albums/o...=camaro001.flv
Cold Start Video....
http://s123.photobucket.com/albums/o...=camaro002.flv
I have a ticking noise coming from my 2002 z28. I already pulled my valve covers and checked my springs, rockers, and pushrods and they were all in tact and just fine. I have done my research and I hear about this O-ring on the oil pump that makes a noise. I checked my spark plugs and made sure everything was tight. I know it is not normal piston slap so I thought about a lifter.... The problem... I leave to Korea in a couple months and my car has to go from NC to NY before I go. I need to bring it home safely and driving it would be easier than shipping it. I would pull my heads to check my lifters but I have stock exhaust manifolds so pulling the heads would be more of a pain considering trying to re-install stock exhaust manifolds.... I changed my oil and there was no metal or flakes in the oil so that was a good sign and I put in a quart of marvel mystery oil and no luck. If it was a lifter it would get louder with more rpms and it seems to go away at about 2500 rpm's. I feel no loss of power and my oil pressure reads 60 at idle. I had a low coolant issue and when my temp spiked the noise went away.. I have no idea how that could be affecting the noise but it did it twice to me. Please help as time is of the essence for me. Any input is well appreciated...
Cold Start Video....
http://s123.photobucket.com/albums/o...=camaro002.flv
I have a ticking noise coming from my 2002 z28. I already pulled my valve covers and checked my springs, rockers, and pushrods and they were all in tact and just fine. I have done my research and I hear about this O-ring on the oil pump that makes a noise. I checked my spark plugs and made sure everything was tight. I know it is not normal piston slap so I thought about a lifter.... The problem... I leave to Korea in a couple months and my car has to go from NC to NY before I go. I need to bring it home safely and driving it would be easier than shipping it. I would pull my heads to check my lifters but I have stock exhaust manifolds so pulling the heads would be more of a pain considering trying to re-install stock exhaust manifolds.... I changed my oil and there was no metal or flakes in the oil so that was a good sign and I put in a quart of marvel mystery oil and no luck. If it was a lifter it would get louder with more rpms and it seems to go away at about 2500 rpm's. I feel no loss of power and my oil pressure reads 60 at idle. I had a low coolant issue and when my temp spiked the noise went away.. I have no idea how that could be affecting the noise but it did it twice to me. Please help as time is of the essence for me. Any input is well appreciated...
Maybe piston slapping? http://www.pistonslap.com/
Maybe a rod bearing?
Here "my" noise http://videos.streetfire.net/video/e...c71ffb0c0f.htm
Could you pls convert yours for windows media player and send it by email?
stefano_tenzi@hotmail.com
I work with my office PC and I'm not allowed to install the Adobe player...
Stefano
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Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 2,379
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I'm going through the same issue with mine after a cam change.
The tick is definitly from the top of the engine, not the bottom, you can actually pinpoint it to a particular side. I've noticed no issues on long drives with the ticking for driving over 3 hours straight with that sound. I've also done 4 hour drives without it making a peep.
Oil pressure is good and there are no metal flakes in my oil either. If a bearing is spun, it's usually a telltale sign when brass colored shavings appear in the oil. You can also find the sound to be louder under the car than at the top. Pressure will fluctuate too.
I think in my case the lifter is not pumping up enough. I find that if I let it idle for a few mins after the noise starts or if I blip the throttle to build up oil pressure then let it coast then the sound goes away.
The tick is definitly from the top of the engine, not the bottom, you can actually pinpoint it to a particular side. I've noticed no issues on long drives with the ticking for driving over 3 hours straight with that sound. I've also done 4 hour drives without it making a peep.
Oil pressure is good and there are no metal flakes in my oil either. If a bearing is spun, it's usually a telltale sign when brass colored shavings appear in the oil. You can also find the sound to be louder under the car than at the top. Pressure will fluctuate too.
I think in my case the lifter is not pumping up enough. I find that if I let it idle for a few mins after the noise starts or if I blip the throttle to build up oil pressure then let it coast then the sound goes away.
TECH Addict
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 2,379
Likes: 2
If you can pinpoint it to a side of the car usually would think valvetrain.
I find people like to use "tick" for a lot of their engine issue descriptions and as it stands that encompasses exhaust leaks, valve check guides, EGR, rockers, lifters, pushrods, something on the brakes...
seriously... we need to expand our vocabulary here.
The tick in that video sounds identical to the tick I have on my car. when it wants to be quiet, it can be and that usually when I get some oil pressure in it and let the lifters pump up with no real load on the system.
I've had that tick since I did a cam in the car. To date, I've put 20k+ miles, 100+ 1/4 mile runs and my oil shows no more metal debris in it than your typical 100k mileage engine. Running a thicker oil helps me, but if your lifter is going, then you may want to address that sooner rather than later. Remember when checking lifters, it can be tough to "compress" it by hand pushing on the pushrod alone. Pull the plugs and crank the engine by hand with the valve covers off. You should be able to spot each valve open and close by hand and each one should have relatively the same amount of open and close when you observe the spring compression. A dying or dead lifter may not open the valve completely and may show some looseness when compared to other valves during this process. It's tedious but short of pulling the heads and doing a teardown and inspection, you really don't have much choice in this.
I find people like to use "tick" for a lot of their engine issue descriptions and as it stands that encompasses exhaust leaks, valve check guides, EGR, rockers, lifters, pushrods, something on the brakes...
seriously... we need to expand our vocabulary here.
The tick in that video sounds identical to the tick I have on my car. when it wants to be quiet, it can be and that usually when I get some oil pressure in it and let the lifters pump up with no real load on the system.
I've had that tick since I did a cam in the car. To date, I've put 20k+ miles, 100+ 1/4 mile runs and my oil shows no more metal debris in it than your typical 100k mileage engine. Running a thicker oil helps me, but if your lifter is going, then you may want to address that sooner rather than later. Remember when checking lifters, it can be tough to "compress" it by hand pushing on the pushrod alone. Pull the plugs and crank the engine by hand with the valve covers off. You should be able to spot each valve open and close by hand and each one should have relatively the same amount of open and close when you observe the spring compression. A dying or dead lifter may not open the valve completely and may show some looseness when compared to other valves during this process. It's tedious but short of pulling the heads and doing a teardown and inspection, you really don't have much choice in this.
Does it help to install a bigger oil filter that allows a better flow?
Assuming it's a lazy lifter, how can you check it without removing the heads?
Pull all of your pushrods. I had a similar sound and at first inspection after pulling the valve covers, everything looked ok.. until we pulled all of them. My number 7 pushrod was bent, and my number 8 pushrod was BROKEN.
Do I have to remove the coils before I remove the valvecovers?
How difficult is to remove the pushrods of # 7 & 8? (there isn't too much space around those cylinders)
Is there a particulare procedure to remove the rockers? For the install I know I need to turn the crank to not have a load on the rocker I'm tightening...
How difficult is to remove the pushrods of # 7 & 8? (there isn't too much space around those cylinders)
Is there a particulare procedure to remove the rockers? For the install I know I need to turn the crank to not have a load on the rocker I'm tightening...