Window motor repaired!
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Window motor repaired! My driver window motor wasn't moving anymore so I took it apart (I just bent the metal baffles to remove the plastic part where the carbons are located).
The carbons and the rotor were covered by a sticky compound
I cleaned up everything, made the rotor shine wit some fine scotch brite, cleaned the spaces between the copper blades on the rotor and put a dab of grease on the bearing surface.
It's a little tricky to put the parts together because the carbons have to be kept on place while you put back the plastic cap.
The motor turns now noiseless and the window is really fast!
Time to "repaire" it: 1 hour if you are slow.
The car is a 98 Trans Am with 85'000 miles on it and this is the original window motor.
Here a good explaination about how remove the motor
http://shbox.com/page/windowmotor.html
Greetings
Stefano
The carbons and the rotor were covered by a sticky compound
I cleaned up everything, made the rotor shine wit some fine scotch brite, cleaned the spaces between the copper blades on the rotor and put a dab of grease on the bearing surface.
It's a little tricky to put the parts together because the carbons have to be kept on place while you put back the plastic cap.
The motor turns now noiseless and the window is really fast!
Time to "repaire" it: 1 hour if you are slow.
The car is a 98 Trans Am with 85'000 miles on it and this is the original window motor.
Here a good explaination about how remove the motor
http://shbox.com/page/windowmotor.html
Greetings
Stefano
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I think every electrical part in the motor has to be cleaned. The oxyde has to be removed from the rotor too. So it's not just a carbon issue.
The window is now as fast as new, but I can't say if it's the refreshed motor or the new grease I put in the rails... maybe all together.
It would be good to put new grease in the gear case, but you can't open it widhout making damages.
Scheduled maintence: I would say wait until the motor is dead and then open it.
By the way: be very careful while drilling the holes in the door: it's built on fiberglass and its dust is really nasty (it badly itches on your hands!) so better use latex gloves.
Yeah if you really get down and clean the internals of any electric motor they will perform like new! I recently had a seat motor quit working on my drivers side seat. I had voltage there so I knew the switch is okay, I took it off, opened it up, cleaned the coils ect. Just like new baby!! I didnt have to buy the stinkin' $140 frickin seat motor!
Wow, it's nice to hear that a window motor doesn't necessarily have to be replace when it stops moving.
Is there any way to replace a motor without having to drill holes? Would a professional shop also have to drill holes?
Is there any way to replace a motor without having to drill holes? Would a professional shop also have to drill holes?
Last edited by Crimsonnaire; Feb 16, 2008 at 02:25 AM.
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You can remove the complete assembly... but then you also need to readjust the window position! Not so easy, I guess.
This of drilling the holes takes 5 minutes, look at the pics on the link I posted: it shows the exact position of the holes. Just work with latex glowes or the fiberglass particles will bother you for a while.
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I looked over the pictures showing the holes, and I have no doubt it's an easy and quick job. I'm just worried that having holes there might cause problems down the road, such as liquid or condensation (from heaters) passage into the motor compartment.
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) and my window STILL isn't lining up right 
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Nope, the holes remain behind the transparent plastic. There are already a lot (and bigger) holes in the door. 3 more won't hurt.
I just used the wrap with a hammer and screwdriver method. Mine was stopped working last year at the track and i remembered a shop mech mentioned this to me one time. It actually worked for the rest of the year. I know it is just a temp fix. Maybe it knocks the carbon buildup off the contacts? I probobly will replace the motor this spring
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I just used the wrap with a hammer and screwdriver method. Mine was stopped working last year at the track and i remembered a shop mech mentioned this to me one time. It actually worked for the rest of the year. I know it is just a temp fix. Maybe it knocks the carbon buildup off the contacts? I probobly will replace the motor this spring
the whole reason it gets sticky on the commentator is because of to much voltage being put to one spot on the comm and causing the brushes to melt!! i would think this would be caused by not having a properly greased track! if your window seems like its moving really slow then try helping out the window or use it slowly to let the bruches cool a bit so u do not let it overheat! but cleaning the motor out will always help alot!! there is special liquids used on the comm and brushes to keep them working at there best!