keliente

iTrader: (22)

You don't have to be a pro solderer. Strip back both sides of the wire, slip some heatshrink over it, twist it together, and hold your soldering gun on the back of the wire for a few seconds until it gets hot. Touch the solder to the wires and it will 'soak' into the strands. After it cools, pull the heatshrink over it and heat it up.

RevGTO

iTrader: (12)

Great write-up, Kelly - thank you! I had just started searching on this and could not find a detailed write-up. Yours is perfect! Very carefully done and well written on top of that!

therobman

iTrader: (39)

that couldnt be any better nice tut could have use it a month ago lol

Prerun4fun13

iTrader: (6)

lol jacks and an engine hoist is an art...

STICKY!!!!!!!!

LilJayV10

iTrader: (39)

Nice write up. I did this on a 93 Z28 in a one car garage with a cherry picker and some jack stands.

My question is about the brakes. Do you have to take it to GM to bleed the brakes. The brakes on that 93 suck and I have bled them several times.

I am trying to talk myself in/out of a cam install on my Firehawk. If I do, it's coming out the bottom. I would much rather do that than out the top on one of these cars.

james562

iTrader: (35)

Guarenteed Sticky

Great job Keliente

What are your plans for the car? Why are you pulling the entire motor?

snake3126

iTrader: (1)

deff sticky material.. this is going to help me alot on my project

mchdg86

iTrader: (3)

You don't need to pull the motor just for a cam swap. Just take the radiator and fan assembly out and tilt the AC condencer up out of the waw and the cam will slide in and out with plenty of room.

2002_Z28_Six_Speed

iTrader: (19)

No. You don't need the Tech 2.

keliente

iTrader: (22)

Well I'm doing a twin turbo kit, which requires changing the k-member...secondly, it looks like a pain to install the kit while the engine is in the car, so that's another reason it's coming out, easier to work on. Thirdly, I wanted to do an oil pump/timing chain since I never did them when I did my cam, and lastly I also have some 317 heads to put on.

So one thing kind of led to another, and at this point it seems a whole lot easier to pull the engine out instead of diddling around with it inside the car.

dave70

iTrader: (2)

A question on the brakes. Do you just bleed them normally? At the caliper ? And great writeup just in time. Also could you take out the bottom k member bolts first and the shock tower ones last? I don't have a lift and I'd rather not be under it when it comes loose LOL. Did you leave the power steering pump in the car or disconnect it?

Beaflag VonRathburg

iTrader: (176)

That's a very good write up. I usually just condense all that down to a few sentences. I like your last step the best though. That is indeed a true necessity. It depends on if you have traction control or not whether you have to use the special tool to do the brakes. If you have traction control you need a Tech-1, 2, or scan tool. If you don't have traction control you can just bleed them normally by following the right rear, left rear, right front, and left front process.

cpd004

iTrader: (13)

Isn't their a ground strap on the back of the engine/head somewhere that attaches to the body?

01ssreda4

iTrader: (96)

thanks to a great write-up.......success, and nothing broke.

Meager

ah HA! I thought you looked familiar! I am just gonna bring my car over to you when I get to this point fantastic write up!!

orangeapeel

iTrader: (18)

After a few years I think its time to put this where it can be easily found. Especially since these 4th gens are getting older and are prone to needing swaps these days.