There are two harnesses running behind the electric fan. One actually has connectors going into the motors; you do not need to disconnect that one. The other is fatter and is attached to the shroud with clips. Pull this harness loose from the clips. 28.
Using the access panel underneath the driver’s side, follow that same harness and unplug the necessary connector from the AIR pump. 29.
Underneath the car on the passenger side, the thin a/c line enters the condenser. Remove this line by loosening the 13mm nut and slide it off. Beware of dripping PAG oil. 30.
If you have an automatic, remove the transmission cooler lines, both stock and aftermarket (if you have one). The line that goes into the radiator is held in with a 13mm nut. Beware dripping transmission fluid. 31.
Also for an automatic, remove the shift selector cable by prying it off with a screwdriver. Then remove the two 13mm bolts that secure it to the transmission pan so that it dangles. This naughty looking thing is the gearshift selector cable. 32.
For a manual car, detach the clutch hydraulic line that runs into the side of the transmission. There is a white ring that needs to be depressed with two flat tip screwdrivers (or an appropriate tool). When pushed in, the line pops out. 33.
Detach the sway bar from the mounts. On the driver’s side, there is a 13mm nut that comes off to reveal a bracket. The bracket comes off by removing two 10mm bolts on the body. Then remove the two 13mm bolts holding the sway bar on. On the passenger side, there are two 13mm bolts also. Swaybar mounts...on both sides
Disconnect and remove o2 sensors. It’ll be a few less harnesses to worry about tangling when the engine comes out. O2 sensors are 7/8ths. 35.
Remove your y-pipe. The socket sizes you need depend on your type of exhaust. I typically unhook the over the axle pipe and pull it out of the muffler to let it hang. Then work your way up to the headers/stock manifolds taking off pieces as you go. A good rubber mallet will be handy. If your exhaust is stock you may break a few clamps trying to take it off. The headers/manifolds can remain on the vehicle. 36.
Remove your driveshaft. Because you’re smart you left your car in neutral so you can spin the driveshaft. There are four 7/16” bolts. If the driveshaft is stuck in the yoke, lightly pry it. Try and keep the caps on the u-joint so that you don’t have needle bearings going everywhere. After it’s out of the yoke, lift up and pull back to slide it off of the tail shaft. 37.
The torque arm can now be disconnected from the transmission. Taking it all the way out is not necessary unless you are installing a new one. If you have an automatic, pry the vent tube clips from the torque arm. It then has a clamshell type mount on the transmission end, held on with a 15mm nut/bolt. Remove the nut and push the shell off of it. The torque arm will want to spring upward so be careful and try and guide it slowly with your hand. If you are replacing the arm – the nuts on the rear end are 13/16th”. 38.
At this point, do a quick check of the vehicle. Besides the k-member and transmission brace, look for any wiring harnesses, brackets, etc that may still be attaching the body to the engine. 39.
Now make a decision about what your engine and transmission are going to rest on when you take them out of the car. I am using a handy dolly. Very simple to set up, and then the engine/trans can be wheeled around as necessary. You can also use jack stands. Take care when setting them, using appropriate jacking areas. Get the vehicle set up the way you like it, and lower it down until it rests on the stand heavily. 40.
Remove the bolts from the transmission brace. Four 15mm bolts. The brace can stay attached to the transmission. 41.
The k-member is the final thing we will be dealing with. There are six robust bolts attaching it to the body. I have tried to capture their location in photographs, but it was difficult to show them all at once. It should be fairly obvious which ones they are, three per side, and they are all 18mm. You will need a breaker bar or impact gun to remove them. Before doing this, double check that your engine and transmission are appropriately supported. Driver's side. Passenger's side. 42.
After removing the bolts, you can start taking the body off. Do a final check that there are no other harnesses/etc attached. Initially, bring the body up slowly. Sometimes the k-member is sort of stuck. If so, use a pry bar and it should detach itself abruptly. Ready for removal. 43.
From here on out, continue lifting the car, stopping every few inches. Even though we have removed everything attaching the engine and transmission to the body, the harnesses and lines will still want to hang up as you go. Take special care of the brake lines, they are hooked and thus want to grab everything. GO SLOW. You will thank yourself later when you are not doing un-fun things like repairing broken wiring harnesses or brake lines. 44.
As you lift the car up, the engine and trans will want to shift a little. When the body gets high enough for the shock tower studs to slip out, the rotor/a-arm assembly will want to lay over to the side pretty violently – that is a lot of weight, so take it slow. 45
. Once the body is off of the engine and transmission, you are now free to do as you like with them. But first complete this very important step. You must climb into your now barren engine bay, strike a pose, and have your friend take a picture. Everyone does it and you should be no exception. Ta-da!! Notes concerning reinstallation:
You can basically read this how-to backwards to remind you of how the vehicle will go back together. When lowering the body back onto the engine/trans, take your time and guide it so that the k-member and shock towers are lined up correctly. Once they are, reinstallation is a breeze. You can consult a repair manual for appropriate torque for bolts/nuts, here are a few:
Brake master cylinder nut – 21 lb/ft
Shock tower nut – 32 lb/ft
Shock tower bolt – 37 lb/ft
Sway bar bolts – 41 lb/ft
Driveshaft bolts – 16 lb/ft
Steering shaft bolts – 35 lb/ft
K-member bolts – 92 lb/ft (lower) 107 lb/ft (upper)
Transmission brace bolts – 66 lb/ft
Brake lines in EBCM – 11 lb/ft
A/C Accumulator bolt – 12 lb/ft
A/C Evaporator tube bolt (at condenser) – 12 lb/ft
Throttle body bracket bolts – 89 lb/in
Wheels – 100 lb/ft
After all of your bolts, nuts, harnesses, etc are in place, don’t forget to top off any missing fluids. The brakes will need to be bled after the lines are reattached to the EBCM. Transmission fluid may need to be topped off if it’s leaked through the tail shaft. The engine coolant will need to be refilled and bled also. To bleed an LS1, reattach all of your coolant hoses except for the small one that runs to the coolant tube under the intake manifold. Place a small paper towel underneath the line and cap off the rubber line with your thumb.
Refill the coolant through the radiator. You will hear air rushing out of that tube, which is the highest point of the coolant system. Once a stream of coolant appears out of the tube, reattach the rubber line and start the car. From there you can top it off as necessary (should not need much more at all).
Do a final once-over before starting the vehicle, and enjoy!