May 11, 2016, 02:33 PM
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HOW TO: Power steering flush.
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From: Miami, Fl. - Hurricane Highway
-Joel
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i have a awful leak somewhere and i dont now from where exactly it looks like in the rack somewhere i put that lucas stuff in it to see if it improved, ill check tomarrow, dude too bad the rack is so expensive i would of swapped it long time ago, i saw a post on some aftermarket pump i want to look into , its suppose to improve feel and what not..we will see
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The proper way to do this is to remove the return line as metioned earlier. That way you are removing old fluid and adding clean fluid. And the engine doesn't need to be running to do a flush. It makes too much of a mess, and there's a risk of running the system dry if you don't hustle. Pull the fuel pump fuse and crank it without running it.
But I like the method posted by the OP. By doing it this way, you are slowly "diluting" the dirty fluid with clean fluid. And it's a much easier, cleaner procedure.
But I like the method posted by the OP. By doing it this way, you are slowly "diluting" the dirty fluid with clean fluid. And it's a much easier, cleaner procedure.
Two people can do it very quickly and every drop of the old fluid comes out and is replaced 100% with new fluid.
You disconnect the return line that clamps to the bottom of the reservoir. Be quick to cap off the reservoir port with something like a rubber vacuum cap.
Point that line straight down into a oil catch pan. Clamp a vice grip on that end to hold it straight down towards the pan.
Have a friend start the engine. Turning the wheel left and right fully continuously.
You have 3 bottles of new fluid opened and ready. Pour in the new fluid slowly as the old fluid squirts into the pan and the level gradually drops in the reservoir.
The second you see new clean fluid coming out into the pan. YOU'RE DONE and there is no air bubbles anywhere.
Clamp the return line back on....top it off....put the top back on and you're done. Takes 5 minutes.
****If you want to, let the level drop down till the reservoir runs ALMOST dry....then immediately have your friend turn off the engine. Put the line back onto the reservoir. Pour a bottle of "flush" in there, start it and let it run for 5 minutes turning the wheel from side to side a few times. Then drain it all out.****
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You disconnect the return line that clamps to the bottom of the reservoir. Be quick to cap off the reservoir port with something like a rubber vacuum cap.
Point that line straight down into a oil catch pan. Clamp a vice grip on that end to hold it straight down towards the pan.
Have a friend start the engine. Turning the wheel left and right fully continuously.
You have 3 bottles of new fluid opened and ready. Pour in the new fluid slowly as the old fluid squirts into the pan and the level gradually drops in the reservoir.
The second you see new clean fluid coming out into the pan. YOU'RE DONE and there is no air bubbles anywhere.
Clamp the return line back on....top it off....put the top back on and you're done. Takes 5 minutes.
****If you want to, let the level drop down till the reservoir runs ALMOST dry....then immediately have your friend turn off the engine. Put the line back onto the reservoir. Pour a bottle of "flush" in there, start it and let it run for 5 minutes turning the wheel from side to side a few times. Then drain it all out.****
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Last edited by LS6427; Nov 27, 2009 at 08:29 PM.
Although the baster method works fine, invest in a "mityvac", I got mine from Amazon and it comes in handy around the shop, from tranmissions, to brake boosters, power steering pumps, radiator's, its works great for flushing all types of fluids and it has adapters to use on brake flushing too. It works great.
Although the baster method works fine, invest in a "mityvac", I got mine from Amazon and it comes in handy around the shop, from tranmissions, to brake boosters, power steering pumps, radiator's, its works great for flushing all types of fluids and it has adapters to use on brake flushing too. It works great.
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