slikrider20

iTrader: (9)

Am i going to have to get awhole new rear end? or could i just take it to a transmission shop or something and have them replace a few new parts?

knappbunch

find a person who can build good rearends and get new gears and an install kit have them set it up. my noise is finally gone after all the bolts in the phb and lca's are torqued and the right size.

DrkPhynx

I've shimmed the LCAs with washers (ensuring more contact between the LCA and body-side bracket, preventing it from moving around on the bolt), the PHB is a DA rod-ended piece from UMI, and everything is cranked down as tight as it's possible to make it, including an extra partial turn on the axle side of the LCA.

The emergency brake cable is zip-tied to the loop-hooks, and cushioned where it contacts the PHB.

The plastic flap that covers the fuel filler neck on the driver's side (which I just found yesterday), has had thin foam added to it's perimeter, and forced back in, so that no plastic contacts metal, instead, it's foam, if it moves at all, it does so silently now.

I STILL have rattles and clunks over rough roads. Namely things like rocky driveways (that use larger rocks), or manhole covers, that sort of thing.

I HAVE made improvements, but I still haven't found the source (or at least not every source) of what I'm looking for.

I don't even know where to look next at this point.

knappbunch

look at the bolts in reference to the crush sleeves even though you put washers in to get rid of side pla the standard sleeves will be bigger than the metric bolts on our cars and that little bit of movement makes a heck of a lot of noise. I hogged out my whole and put 1/2 grade 8 bolts in there and viola no noise.

frisky2101

iTrader: (8)

had a noise coming from what seems to be the right rear of the car as well, going slow speeds over speed bumps as wel as going front drive (1st/2nd) into reverse and reverse back into gear... believe that it is the rear as well but will be sure to check everything else while I'm down there when ever I get a chace..

DrkPhynx

I see what you are saying, but the thing is, most people who have such noises, either have Sub-Frame Connectors, or just bolts that are too loose (not torqued down enough). So they either go out and tighten them, or beat the bracket back in (in the case of SFCs), and then tighten them, and it goes away.

Which makes sense if you think about it, as I can't imagine that would have gotten out of testing and into production with a bolt too small if it was such a simple fix for so much noise.

Once you have proper clamp load, the LCA should not be able to move, and at that point it shouldn't matter if the bolt is 10 times too small, or just right.

Since I couldn't beat the bracket back in, I went with the shim method. And I know it did help some, it's just not the fix I'm looking for.

I tried drilling that hole out. I can't. How did you get a drill in there? I can't even get a ratchet, let alone a torque wrench, in there. A drill? Fuhgettaboutit. I tried a dremel in frustration, but that didn't work either.

knappbunch

drilled from the center of the car out using longer bit.

Z/28R

I found after switching to the UMI adjustable phr I developed a squeaky clunk after a few days. I could tighten the bolt on the chassis (passenger side) and it would go away for a day or two then return. Turns out the rod end had rotated slightly when the jam nut was tightened and it was binding on big suspension movements. That rod end must be straight vertical, any deviation will cause bind and work the chassis side bolt loose. Loosen jam nut, hold rod end in position with a big crescent wrench and tighten that jam nut good (maybe add a little loctite but I didn't need to). Make sure suspension is loaded when you do the work, I put the rear of the car on jackstands with the wheels off and it was easy to get to everything. This might be the problem you are having if you wiggle the car laterally and you can hear the squeak / clunk sound. I run the UMI control arms with bolt on relocation brackets so our setup is a little different but I hope this helps...

slikrider20

iTrader: (9)

The sound IS NOT coming from the suspension,it's coming from the rear end. My question, is will i have to get a whole new rear end or could i get someone basically to fix the parts that suck?

knappbunch

look in your local phone book call some local shops and do some investigating you should be able to find someone in your area that rebuilds rearends and get the master install kit with some new gears and they should be able to put it back together for you. the noise is probably comming from the ring and pinion if you have been hard on it.

andrew69_04

iTrader: (148)

what you will pay for labor and parts, and to find a GOOD TRUSTWORTHY shop, its going to be quite a bit more than what i was asking for my factory rear.

read a few of the stories around the net of places that claim they can do it and peoples rears end up f'd up, it can happen...

knappbunch

I found a great guy loacally and he charged me 250.00 to put in my new art carr tranny and converter and install my 3.73 at the same time. some people are good and just like the work. hard to find but keep digging till you find one there is o ne in almost every town.

slikrider20

iTrader: (9)

problem is , i go get another used f-body rear and the probability of that one making noises/etc are high.

Drake02

What were the findings of that guy in the video? Anybody know? I have that same sound when going into a steep driveway and a loud almost cracking noise from the rear passenger side when going over a pothole, manhole, road irregularity. I have a Vert with welded on BMR SFCs (they only run along each side) and Spohn front/rear sway bars. I have had this noise since before the Spohn front/rear sway bars though. Just took the differential cover off and looked around, as well as changed the fluid... everything seemed fine and it doesn't appear that the noise has anything to do with internal issues. Also getting a strange urrrr type noise from the rear area of the car when going between 1,000-1,500 rpm around 30-40mph.

sneaky7980

iTrader: (15)

bump. Anymore findings?

slikrider20

iTrader: (9)

Just an update: I installed my stock panhard bar back on, the sound went COMPLETELY away. 1 month later, the sound is back in full force. WTF??

knappbunch

check the ftlbs of torque you have to tighten the crap out of them.