engine bay cleaning woes
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engine bay cleaning woes Can anyone help me out with this?https://ls1tech.com/forums/western-members/925388-now-ive-done.html
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Can anyone help me out with this?https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=925388
Every time I clean my engine bay, right after for about 30 miles of driving, I get high voltage on my guage because something is wet that shouldn't be.
I just drive and it always goes away in about 30 miles. Whatever it is that you got wet needs to dry, thats all.
Go drive it. Let it get hot and start drying everything.
I do mine every 4 months for the past 10 years and its always ok.
I personally like to use concentrated simple green on a cool engine, let it soak, then rise clean with low pressure water from a hose. Dont spray the PCM or fusebox directly, and you should be fine. I've been doing this for three years now, every spring, no problems yet!
I cleaned it first in 2005, then again 12/2007. I then set the fan temps to stock so it runs hotter, let it run for a while to dry it out.
But the last time I did it in 12/07 shortly after I got a bad knock sensor code, within a few days.
I searched here and that led me to a GM service bulletin that said it's common in some vehicles, especially those that have had the engines washed often. It says to apply silicone around the new knock sensor boots to prevent water from getting in there. My old sensors were rusted.
Water gets on top of the lifter valley cover by running through the slots where the intake meets the cylinder heads, and in the front and back.
If water fills the knock sensor wells thats a 3 or 4 inch deep cylinder of water, it takes a lot of time for that to evaporate out.
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I always clean my engine at a car wash with simple green and the spot free rinse setting (low pressure). The main trick is to take a roll of aluminium foil with you...cover up all electrical items that should not get real wet. i.e. PCM, etc...
The foil works really well because you can bend and form it into the tightest corners and will stay put during the spraying. I've done this for 8 years and never had any problems at all, once again drive your car for a few to dry out the engine compartment and you are done. :wink:
The foil works really well because you can bend and form it into the tightest corners and will stay put during the spraying. I've done this for 8 years and never had any problems at all, once again drive your car for a few to dry out the engine compartment and you are done. :wink:
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From: IN A VAN, DOWN BY THE RIVER!
I always clean my engine at a car wash with simple green and the spot free rinse setting (low pressure). The main trick is to take a roll of aluminium foil with you...cover up all electrical items that should not get real wet. i.e. PCM, etc...
The foil works really well because you can bend and form it into the tightest corners and will stay put during the spraying. I've done this for 8 years and never had any problems at all, once again drive your car for a few to dry out the engine compartment and you are done. :wink:
The foil works really well because you can bend and form it into the tightest corners and will stay put during the spraying. I've done this for 8 years and never had any problems at all, once again drive your car for a few to dry out the engine compartment and you are done. :wink:
