Help Car Won't Idle!!!!
Ive actually never had to do a relearn on a camaro, I know you do with the trucks and SUV's...
If it dies out, you just need to drive it, It takes a few miles for it to relearn, after the batterys been disconnected!
If it dies out, you just need to drive it, It takes a few miles for it to relearn, after the batterys been disconnected!
Somethings wrong somewhere. I was PM'ed about getting an engine computer for a 2001 set up so I could tune it with 2002 specific tuning stuff.
There was a big debate, people on here said a dealer could do it for me, 9 dealers said they couldn't, people on here said autozone, or another parts store could do it, 10-15 phone calls later no one could do it.
I found out there are a lot of people on here that don't know **** about reflashing VCM's for use in different vehicles so I said **** it and bought a used 2002 VCM for the same car I had, put it in my 2001, did a re-write with HPTuners. Car started up, didn't want to run for about 3-4 minutes and straightened right up and has been fine since.
It didn't meltdown like I was told, some jackass even told me by doing this I will kill the resale value of the car. Is that something an educated person says? WTF?
I'm not one to go 13 days with the same problem. I have two other vehicles to drive but if I couldn't get one running I'd get on it and figure out why pretty quick.
There was a big debate, people on here said a dealer could do it for me, 9 dealers said they couldn't, people on here said autozone, or another parts store could do it, 10-15 phone calls later no one could do it.
I found out there are a lot of people on here that don't know **** about reflashing VCM's for use in different vehicles so I said **** it and bought a used 2002 VCM for the same car I had, put it in my 2001, did a re-write with HPTuners. Car started up, didn't want to run for about 3-4 minutes and straightened right up and has been fine since.
It didn't meltdown like I was told, some jackass even told me by doing this I will kill the resale value of the car. Is that something an educated person says? WTF?
I'm not one to go 13 days with the same problem. I have two other vehicles to drive but if I couldn't get one running I'd get on it and figure out why pretty quick.
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Thread Starter
TECH Apprentice
iTrader: (28)
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 349
Likes: 0
From: winchester, tn
well damn yea i have something else to drive in the mean time. i had a buddy hook it up to hptuners and looked like there were a couple thing with the tunes weren't just right like the map showing 98kps at idle which shouldn't be
You can hope all you want but kPa close to atmospheric pressure means theres a problem mechanically, a fairly big problem IMO.
Do a compression test, thats about the easiest thing you can do that should reveal a major mechanical problem. If the compression is good it could be a huge vacuum leak.
Do a compression test, thats about the easiest thing you can do that should reveal a major mechanical problem. If the compression is good it could be a huge vacuum leak.
Take the hose off the brake booster and plug it. I've seen the booster diaphrams go bad and cause an internal leak.
I'd do a compression test. When the engine was built how much piston to valve clearance did you have? Did you check the valvetrain geometry? (for correct pushrod length etc)
I'd do a compression test. When the engine was built how much piston to valve clearance did you have? Did you check the valvetrain geometry? (for correct pushrod length etc)
Staging Lane
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 93
Likes: 0
From: Clermont, FL
Ok, I'm pretty sure this is right.
after you get the engine where it will idle and not stall:
5 minutes in "drive" with the wheels blocked OR with the e-brake "on" so it won't roll. (not holding the foot brake)
then immediately:
5 minutes in "drive" with the wheels blocked OR with the e-brake "on" so it won't roll..with the A/C on MAX and high fan. (not holding the foot brake)
then immediately:
5 minutes in "drive" with the wheels blocked OR with the e-brake "on" so it won't roll...with the A/C "off". (not holding the foot brake)
then immediately:
5 minutes idling in "Park".
Then go drive it for about 15-20 minutes. Then after about 50 miles of driving the PCM should be all set.
***I'm pretty sure thats it, but maybe a search shows it s a bit different.*****
after you get the engine where it will idle and not stall:
5 minutes in "drive" with the wheels blocked OR with the e-brake "on" so it won't roll. (not holding the foot brake)
then immediately:
5 minutes in "drive" with the wheels blocked OR with the e-brake "on" so it won't roll..with the A/C on MAX and high fan. (not holding the foot brake)
then immediately:
5 minutes in "drive" with the wheels blocked OR with the e-brake "on" so it won't roll...with the A/C "off". (not holding the foot brake)
then immediately:
5 minutes idling in "Park".
Then go drive it for about 15-20 minutes. Then after about 50 miles of driving the PCM should be all set.
***I'm pretty sure thats it, but maybe a search shows it s a bit different.*****
Sounds like a video game :
up up, down down left right , left right, B, A, select, Start.
felt like a jackass after hours of troubleshooting... Thread Starter
TECH Apprentice
iTrader: (28)
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 349
Likes: 0
From: winchester, tn
well got intake and valve covers off and saw where the intake gasket looked like they were'nt fitting right. i used some frl-pro gaskets they r the square looking ones not the catherdral ones would that make a difference?