Window doesnt't go up all the way...Pics included
05-18-2012, 02:00 PM
#61
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Did the same thing except used gorilla glue. Hell I went low cost on this **** and my riggins are second to everyones!
Hell as you can see I even welded up the roller on the bottom of the window! Low cost making **** work!
Yes works great! Some ******* put in a new PW motor, before I bought it, with what looked like a ******* jackhammer! A couple holes were whored out.
Yes it may fail again and if it does I may go with that plate idea. That was a winner.
05-18-2012, 08:02 PM
#62
I'd be really careful doing this. Incorrect rivets or bolts are what usually gets people in to this problem in the first place.
If you go with rivets, you'll need to make sure they are steel mandrel (for strength) with aluminum jackets. (so they don't tear up and stress the composite) As well, you'll need to make sure the rivets don't interfere with the moving regulator parts.
If you use epoxy to fuse the plate to the composite, you can then use anything you want to connect the regulator to the plate since that's metal-on-metal.
If you go with rivets, you'll need to make sure they are steel mandrel (for strength) with aluminum jackets. (so they don't tear up and stress the composite) As well, you'll need to make sure the rivets don't interfere with the moving regulator parts.
If you use epoxy to fuse the plate to the composite, you can then use anything you want to connect the regulator to the plate since that's metal-on-metal.
10-20-2012, 12:18 PM
#63
Im doing a manual to automatic conversion to match the rest of my 02 TA because I had to replace the door. I coincidentally have to replace the entire regulator assembly as I dont want to drill holes. Before I go and drill out the rivets do I drill out all of them or just certain ones and do you know the size of the holes I'm going to replace the rivets with bolts and washers to prevent it from shifting?
10-20-2012, 04:35 PM
#64
Im doing a manual to automatic conversion to match the rest of my 02 TA because I had to replace the door. I coincidentally have to replace the entire regulator assembly as I dont want to drill holes. Before I go and drill out the rivets do I drill out all of them or just certain ones and do you know the size of the holes I'm going to replace the rivets with bolts and washers to prevent it from shifting?
The regulator rivets are very stout. There is NO WAY to avoid chewing up some of the door when you drill them out. I recall that the bit was 1/4" or just larger - but you have to be perfectly centered on the rivet to avoid chewing up the door. This is challenging because you have to center on the rivet mandrel, which is steel. Center punching that thing accurately is a bitch. (BTW - If you do remove the regulator you'll need special GM aluminum jacket, steel mandrel rivets - otherwise you'll also increase your likelihood of being another statistic to this thread.)
There's lots of other reasons no to drill out the regulator but I'll save that for another thread so we don't get off topic.
08-15-2013, 06:28 PM
#65
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I think this happens to 'em all. Usually cuz when you replace a window motor, you're replacing the rivets with a nut and a bolt which apparently, is only good for cutting slots in our plastic doors. What I've done (to both doors) is get the motor back wher it belongs by manipulating the regulator. Then drill new holes wherever you can through the door and into the metal of the motor assembly. Then use 1/4inch rivets in them holes. Its actually pretty easy. Just poke your head in to make sure you don't drill into a critical area, like the spring housing
08-16-2013, 07:04 AM
#66
I think this happens to 'em all. Usually cuz when you replace a window motor, you're replacing the rivets with a nut and a bolt which apparently, is only good for cutting slots in our plastic doors. What I've done (to both doors) is get the motor back wher it belongs by manipulating the regulator. Then drill new holes wherever you can through the door and into the metal of the motor assembly. Then use 1/4inch rivets in them holes. Its actually pretty easy. Just poke your head in to make sure you don't drill into a critical area, like the spring housing
03-10-2014, 10:10 AM
#67
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I just picked up a '00 'Vert...and the drivers door is not aligned perfectly in the back. One owner car from my MIL, and she said FIL replaced the "window something or other" and never got the glass back in alignment.
Guess I will take the door panel off and see what's doing. Thankfully I still have my other car to drive.
Guess I will take the door panel off and see what's doing. Thankfully I still have my other car to drive.
03-10-2014, 01:29 PM
#68
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not sure if it was mentioned b4, what name brand are the best replacement window motors? is there a less expensive one you'd put in your car? where 2 buy? thx mine go very slow & need replacing soon.
03-10-2014, 02:41 PM
#69
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08-22-2015, 05:27 PM
#73
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Resurrecting this, as I am now facing this issue too.
Was anyone able to find a diagram for the thin metal piece on gmpartsdirect.com? I searched but wasn't able to find anything.
Was anyone able to find a diagram for the thin metal piece on gmpartsdirect.com? I searched but wasn't able to find anything.
08-22-2015, 06:56 PM
#74
I ended up having a body shop make me this template like other people here and put one on each side of the inside of the door to "sandwich" the door In between the metal plates and it much better, not 100 % because they couldn't get the window all the way up but its so much better than before.
08-22-2015, 07:08 PM
#75
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My issue at the moment is the pressure on the components right behind this part of the door. I need to move the components up to their original place but can't because there's pressure being put on them. Then I can look in to correcting this mess.
08-22-2015, 07:57 PM
#76
BTW - I think that a sandwich is probably overkill. I'd be interested to hear how the folks who have bonded their plates/washers to the door are holding up. (As long as the plate/washers/etc. are solid to the plane of the door, everything should be fine.)
08-22-2015, 08:01 PM
#77
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Can I simply gut the insides + glass, put the components back in, secure them, and reassemble? I'm typing this and have no idea how the window system works but I don't know what else to do at this point.
08-22-2015, 10:00 PM
#78
So how to I go about moving those components up with the pressure on them? I tried to pull up on the window but that didn't relieve the pressure.
Can I simply gut the insides + glass, put the components back in, secure them, and reassemble? I'm typing this and have no idea how the window system works but I don't know what else to do at this point.
Can I simply gut the insides + glass, put the components back in, secure them, and reassemble? I'm typing this and have no idea how the window system works but I don't know what else to do at this point.
Open the door, roll the window down a bit, and then tug up on the glass. You should then see the mounting points move back up to where god intended they be. (As long as the window is in the full-up position, the mechanism will rotate down in to the tears.)
Once you have a plate and are ready for the permanent repair, it's going to be a two person job. One person to do the work and one person to pull up on the glass to get things in the correct position. (If second person will be paid in beer - best to withhold payment until job is done on this one.)
Another thing that will help is to make sure the regulator is hooked. There is a metal hook that hangs on a hole in the middle of the four original rivet holes. This hook will hold the weight of everything and will act as a pivot point while you get everything lined up correctly. If the hook isn't used - you'll never be able to get everything in the correct position.
08-23-2015, 02:15 PM
#80
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Pulling up the window didn't help. There's still too much pressure on the regulator/whatever-it-is in the middle of the door. It's almost as if it's been forced to a position and hard to move. Maybe even some of the other bolts are keeping this whole thing in place and preventing me from moving it.
I did notice that there are a few black bolts in the door towards the end of it. Not sure what they do but here's a pic:
Since I can't seem to manually move the hardware to the correct spot, should I attempt to remove the tracks and other internals, J-D weld in my hack-fix and reassemble everything? I'll run over to a Chevy dealership during lunch but I suspect they'll recommend getting a new door or the manual fix will break the bank and I'd like to avoid that if possible.
My final option would be to replace the entire door but then I'd have to swap the door, move over my trim and repaint the door. Seems like that would get expensive rather quickly.
I did notice that there are a few black bolts in the door towards the end of it. Not sure what they do but here's a pic:
Since I can't seem to manually move the hardware to the correct spot, should I attempt to remove the tracks and other internals, J-D weld in my hack-fix and reassemble everything? I'll run over to a Chevy dealership during lunch but I suspect they'll recommend getting a new door or the manual fix will break the bank and I'd like to avoid that if possible.
My final option would be to replace the entire door but then I'd have to swap the door, move over my trim and repaint the door. Seems like that would get expensive rather quickly.