Mobil 1 question

Being green is one of the reasons we know for sure that this oil is in fact Formula SLX 0w30 from Germany, since the only oil that Castrol makes in green in the entire world is that formula. Castrol USA is still tight lipped about it though, they refuse to give out any more details on this oil, they still claim it's identical to the old US made 0w30, when in fact the two oils are radically different. Consensus is that Castrol USA is a bit embarressed to admit that this German made stuff is so far superior to any of the other Syntec oils made in USA, that they refuse to give out too much info on it.
This is why when someone does decide to do extended intervals, you should run the first interval with the new oil at about 3-5k, then do the extended interval after that, this way there is no other type of oil in there mixed in with it (when you change your oil, no matter how long you let it drain you'll still end up with 1/4 to 1/2qt of the previous oil in there, most of it stuck in the heads, oil pump, corners of the oil pan, etc.)
I did this per Patman...i learned from another thread.
I'm racing tomorrow night.

i gotta ask... why dont you just buy the damn 10-40?
seems MUCH more logical than messing with two oils that were made to be different even if they are the same make. Walmart usually has the best price.
EDIT - aye, 4 years old? who bumped this? there's been A LOT of this ancient post bumping lately. FWIW, IMO ALL mobil 1 30 weights suck. they're all overrated and they all show mediocre at best wear results. i just picked up 18 quarts of GC 0W-30 on sale at my local autozone for $4.49/quart. i will forever use GC 0W-30 as long as i can get it after the disappointing results from mobil 1 5W-40 (more oil consumption, louder valvetrain tick, less oil pressure).
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The best oil I have ever used.
im a fan of amsoil i have used teh 5w40 be for but what 5W 30 amsoil are you talking about (patman) theirs a couple differant ones ASL, XLF, HDD, TSO


