Fitment Problem with QTP longtubes
About $57 from the WS6 Store and "The best poly motor mount write up ever written"
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...+motor+writeup
, it's your friend
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...+motor+writeup
, it's your friend Last edited by Golf&GM; Oct 16, 2008 at 07:42 AM.
Yea, that's what I'm hoping on, but if it moves too much there is a metal lip on the other side that hangs down from where the a body panel meets the floor board. It took a pair of channel locks and some beef to get it bent back far enough so I could put my pinky between the metal and the header. Not too worried about that part though cause a piece of it can easily be chopped off, unlike the k-member.
Hopefully people thinking about buying QTP headers will see this and have some sort of idea about what they might be getting into. Some people's fit fine, but after more searching it seems like a LOT of people have this problem with QTPs and the stock motor mounts. You would think if QTP was listening to their customers they'd do something about it
Hopefully people thinking about buying QTP headers will see this and have some sort of idea about what they might be getting into. Some people's fit fine, but after more searching it seems like a LOT of people have this problem with QTPs and the stock motor mounts. You would think if QTP was listening to their customers they'd do something about it
If you are doing headers, I would do the mounts at the same time. MUCH easier to do the motor mounts with the exhaust manifold/headers out of the way. Probably 45 minutes to an hour a side versus a 6 hour cuss job. (in my case anyway, I move slow) It will help with header clearance, and it helps with y-pipe stability so you don't have that banging.
Yea, I'm thick headed like that. I'd like to give it a chance with the rubber mounts, if it doesn't work I'll upgrade. It still seems pretty crummy that you've gotta upgrade motor mounts to have a set of headers like this fit, at least there's a solution to the problem tho.
Pretty much with all headers motor mounts are a must. You're going from the tiny stock y-pipe to a 3" y-pipe. You want the most ground clearance possible so therefore the y-pipe is pushed up as close to the floorboard as possible. With the stock rubber motor mounts, when the engine torques over the y-pipe will hit the floorboard. With poly or solid motor mounts, the engine will barely move. I have no banging or clearance issues with my QTPs.
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Verdad Gallardo TheSilverOne, would it be at all possible for you to take pics of your driver's side header clearance over the k-member? I'd really like to see how much clearance I'm suppose to have opposed to what I've got. I've tried searching and couldn't really come up with some good pics of what I'm after.
I'm sure you are not the only one with clearance problems with headers and the stock k member.
My American Racing headers were close (could barely get my finger through the space) on the driver side. I don't know if it was my motor mounts or what but it rattled a lot and was annoying.
Now I have a UMI k member and poly motor mounts. There is tons of space for any type and size of headers.
My American Racing headers were close (could barely get my finger through the space) on the driver side. I don't know if it was my motor mounts or what but it rattled a lot and was annoying.
Now I have a UMI k member and poly motor mounts. There is tons of space for any type and size of headers.
Well if you actually could get a finger through the space then I am going to have problems. Screw it, I'll just go ahead and put poly mounts on there, seems like less of a headache.
Alright, I figured I would update this because a couple people asked me to let them know how it turned out. I decided to go ahead and not do the mounts because it looked as if I would maybe have enough clearance. I had a few delays because the threads in the O2 bungs were all boogered up and I had to re-tap them, plus my boss has been riding me so I haven't had much time to mess with it.
I finally started it up tonight and no leaks, no rattles, and no banging. I still have the same clearance that I showed, and no problems yet. I haven't had a really hard launch yet so I can't speak for that, but under normal driving the stock mounts seemed to do the job. This is open header tho, haven't tested the y-pipe yet.
I finally started it up tonight and no leaks, no rattles, and no banging. I still have the same clearance that I showed, and no problems yet. I haven't had a really hard launch yet so I can't speak for that, but under normal driving the stock mounts seemed to do the job. This is open header tho, haven't tested the y-pipe yet.
TheSilverOne, would it be at all possible for you to take pics of your driver's side header clearance over the k-member? I'd really like to see how much clearance I'm suppose to have opposed to what I've got. I've tried searching and couldn't really come up with some good pics of what I'm after.
That's cool man, I know the feeling. I've worked this header swap whenever I have a spare minute and it's taken me about two weeks, had to move about 100 users in the past 5 days 
But yea, if I could see how your headers fit compared to mine I think it would be good a pretty good comarison to show how much difference the poly mounts make compared to the rubber stockers.
But yea, if I could see how your headers fit compared to mine I think it would be good a pretty good comarison to show how much difference the poly mounts make compared to the rubber stockers.
I have the same **** with my QTPs AND they hit on the steering. I think the quality has gone way down since the started to out source them. Now i see all sorts of threads about leaks around the merge too. It's a shame. UMI K member here we all come lol
I bought them from a member on here who never installed them, and the threads for the o2 bungs had to be tapped. The threads looked like they had never been used but felt jagged, I actually had to cut part of the o2 bung off to get the tap to work. I don't konw if they out-source or not but something was up.
Do yourself a favor and save a little extra and go ARH or Kooks. Search it on here. QTP's sometimes have leaky collectors too. I had two sets I got rid of because you could see light where the collectors and primary tubes met. Plus my"new" set was dinged all up like they had been put before and returned
WS6 store took them back (great customer service). Granted the first set was off a wreck I don't think that had anything to do with it. Thanks Firehawk441 for clearing that up! I've heard that rumor from a few different people but it's good to hear for sure that they're still American.
After some adjusting I really have no complaints other than the o2 threads. They do take more adjusting to get the headers and y-pipe to fit than I was expecting. I was ticked about the headers not clearing, then after losen every bolt adjusting the header and then tightening down, it seems like I have all the clearance that I need WITH the stock motor mounts. I just wanted to put another thread out there that let people know what it takes for these to fit and that they may not with the stock mounts.
After some adjusting I really have no complaints other than the o2 threads. They do take more adjusting to get the headers and y-pipe to fit than I was expecting. I was ticked about the headers not clearing, then after losen every bolt adjusting the header and then tightening down, it seems like I have all the clearance that I need WITH the stock motor mounts. I just wanted to put another thread out there that let people know what it takes for these to fit and that they may not with the stock mounts.
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You shouldn't have to buy new motor mounts to make your headers fit, QTP doesn't care about its customers one bit. What would it take to make them fit like Pacesetters? They go in perfect. I have a set of QTP's btw.
