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Old 02-11-2010, 01:36 PM
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Originally Posted by LS88FoxBody
I have a 5.3 I'm putting in a fox body. Looking to go with a manual Rack. Currently Have a Truck water Pump ,and all other normal accesories. Can I get away with just going with the F body alternator bracket or do I need to change other stuff?
no belt spacing is different on trucks
Old 02-11-2010, 01:44 PM
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Originally Posted by Intercooler2
Not turning the A/C and bypassing the powersteering has to help just a little right? Might not be but 5 HP but still

The AC pulley is an idler unless the AC is turned on. It has a clutch to engage the compressor. So, I'd be very surprised to see gains from this. The weight reduction from removing the AC would be good though. The PS would be a slight benefit. The improvement is in energy saved to accelerate the pullies. So, on a dyno, look for an under the curve increase w/ peak being equal (once accelerated to max RPM, there is no more benefit).


I have an underdrive pulley, no PS & no AC w/ two idler pullies added to increase crank, alternator & WP wrap angles. The pulley between the crank & alternator is a 2" diameter smooth idler that the back of the belt (flat side) rides on. The idler pulley between the alternator & the WP needs to be a 6 ribbed pulley. I used the same idler pulley from the stock tensioner. Don't recall the actual length of the new belt.....let me go look @ it; be right back.......it's 53.25". It's easy enough to measure w/ a string or small rope. Just measure with the tensioner pulley half way within it's tension travel.
Old 02-11-2010, 04:16 PM
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Originally Posted by xpndbl3
no belt spacing is different on trucks

Define spacing...
Old 02-11-2010, 06:28 PM
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Originally Posted by Intercooler2
Yea that was an old post. I just took off the A/C belt and left it as-is. Not worth the trouble!
Picture this: opening day at the track, new track owner, new crew, LOTS of cars racing TNT. Guy drives his TA there. Spends 2 hours getting it ready to race ( crawling under it, getting dirty, etc.), then the timing system takes a ****. Meanwhile everyone was waiting in line and got a couple runs in. He gets pissed and spends another 2 hours getting the car back ready for the drive home, and we all line up and do some arm-drop racing bc the tree is down. I thought to myself, what a waste.
Old 02-11-2010, 06:36 PM
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Originally Posted by LS88FoxBody
Define spacing...
uhm it

they're not interchangeable
Old 02-12-2010, 02:36 PM
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Originally Posted by chrs1313
i removed the bolt...just to post this again it absolutely gained nothing in back to back runs...
so do you race with the powersteering hooked up?
Old 02-12-2010, 05:12 PM
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Originally Posted by dug
so do you race with the powersteering hooked up?
i race with no PS......peroid
Old 04-25-2012, 04:07 AM
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hi there, sounds like the set up im after, do you have pics ? many thanks

Finlay

Originally Posted by LS1-450
The AC pulley is an idler unless the AC is turned on. It has a clutch to engage the compressor. So, I'd be very surprised to see gains from this. The weight reduction from removing the AC would be good though. The PS would be a slight benefit. The improvement is in energy saved to accelerate the pullies. So, on a dyno, look for an under the curve increase w/ peak being equal (once accelerated to max RPM, there is no more benefit).


I have an underdrive pulley, no PS & no AC w/ two idler pullies added to increase crank, alternator & WP wrap angles. The pulley between the crank & alternator is a 2" diameter smooth idler that the back of the belt (flat side) rides on. The idler pulley between the alternator & the WP needs to be a 6 ribbed pulley. I used the same idler pulley from the stock tensioner. Don't recall the actual length of the new belt.....let me go look @ it; be right back.......it's 53.25". It's easy enough to measure w/ a string or small rope. Just measure with the tensioner pulley half way within it's tension travel.



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