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Old Jan 10, 2009 | 04:16 PM
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Default Install List check

Hey guys,

I am going to be installing a bunch of parts on my 98 T/A next weekend and I want to make sure I have everything so there are no surprises.

1. Bryun Speed
lower control arms

2. texas speed
gaskets/head bolts
lifters
rod bolts

3. ebay
valve covers
coming with gaskets and hardware

4. ebay
oil pump

5. heads
have head/exhaust/intake gaskets and bolts
I am going to measure which pushrods I need and then pick them up local

6. cam
7. oil
8. oil filter
9. oil pan gasket

10. injectors
should plug right in

11. coil brackets
not sure if i have the hardware for these, I am going from a perimeter to center setup

12. UDP
For this it sounds like the way to do it is get a longer bolt from home depot or something to help put the new pulley on.

I don't have the belts for this, anyone know the part #'s?
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Old Jan 10, 2009 | 05:02 PM
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From: San Angelo, TX
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Originally Posted by vettett15
Hey guys,

I am going to be installing a bunch of parts on my 98 T/A next weekend and I want to make sure I have everything so there are no surprises.

1. Bryun Speed
lower control arms

2. texas speed
gaskets/head bolts
lifters
rod bolts

3. ebay
valve covers
coming with gaskets and hardware

4. ebay
oil pump

5. heads
have head/exhaust/intake gaskets and bolts
I am going to measure which pushrods I need and then pick them up local

6. cam
7. oil
8. oil filter
9. oil pan gasket

10. injectors
should plug right in

11. coil brackets
not sure if i have the hardware for these, I am going from a perimeter to center setup

12. UDP
For this it sounds like the way to do it is get a longer bolt from home depot or something to help put the new pulley on.

I don't have the belts for this, anyone know the part #'s?
For an 25% UD ASP pulley these are the belt sizes they recommend not sure what you have but it SHOULD be the same??
Accessory Belt = 760K6
A/C Belt = 378K4

for install I went to a local bolt/industral store and bought a couple nuts, washers & a piece of all thread with the same thread pitch as the metric crank bolt and made my own install tool.
figure on a new set of spark plugs and dont forget anti-freeze. Im assuming the heads are setup and wont need new springs not sure what else i'll keep looking at it and update if i see anything else.

Is there a reason you are going to pull the pan and install new rod bolts?

Last edited by 69_YENKO; Jan 10, 2009 at 05:08 PM.
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Old Jan 10, 2009 | 10:45 PM
  #3  
vettett15's Avatar
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Thanks for the belt #'s, I need to pick up some plugs too.

For the rod bolts I just wanted that extra security, not have to worry about the 98 bolts destroying my motor when I rev to 6500+. I will have a good amount of help and will be using air tools so I don't think the job will be too hard, but we shall see. Thanks again,
Pete
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Old Jan 10, 2009 | 10:56 PM
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1998 rod bolts?
They seem stronger than the rods.
This came out of a stock '98 A4 TA, it was still running.
A 1/2" part at the bottom of the cylinder was deburred, it was honed, and a used one put in it's place. All done in the car.

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Old Jan 11, 2009 | 05:00 PM
  #5  
vettett15's Avatar
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hey 9000,

that looks absolutely horrible, but I don't think it is representative of the normal ls1 bottom end failure. I've had friends, 2 to be exact, that have had spun bearings from what I believe to be over reving their engine.
I understand it isn't the easiest thing to do but I believe it is pretty cheap, since I'm doing all the labor, insurance. I spoke with a couple of performance shops who are familiar with these cars and have installed the arp rod bolts by dropping the pan and haven't had problems.
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