Nice. I plan on going with kooks as well once i get started on my 383 project!

 

looks great......

 

The torque arm is an LG Motorsports piece (I'm not sure they make them anymore), but it isn't on the car anymore. It wouldn't fit with the Strange 12-bolt, so I went to a full length adjustable arm from UMI. The LGM torque arm just occupies a corner of my garage now

As for the driveshaft, I've never really had driveline vibrations due to a driveshaft, so I can't say I noticed an improvement. The CF driveshaft was more for a wow factor and the overall strength - 3.75" in diameter and 1350 joints front and rear - it is completely overkill for what I do, but I like it, and that shaft even with those components only weighs as much as the stock 3" aluminum shaft with smaller u-joints and yoke it replaced.

 

The tube is something I made from 4" aluminum pipe and two silicone couplers from High Temp Silicone (a quick Google should net you something). Now if only my throttle body didn't neck down so damn much - a FAST intake of some sort is next on the mod list.

 

Oh and one other thing, do you have a guesstimate of how much power you might lose down low? Personally i dont think a 346 would lose that much since the primaries are only .125" bigger than a 1 3/4" primary. But we will hafta see.

 

No guesses from my end on how much will be lost/not lost down low - I don't plan on doing a before/after dyno (which would only show WOT gains/losses anyway), but I'll know about how much fuel needed to be added or taken away and in what areas (MAP vs. RPM) to keep my tune in check.

I do expect it to feel a little soggy down low, but people swore up and down it would feel soggy on the bottom end when I went to 1-3/4" headers in the first place, and even moreso when I "lost" my catalytic convertors, and I never really experienced that. I put little stock in internet myths, and a part of this is so I can learn what happens myself - I'm learning as I go.

 

those headers look sexy, let us know how the install goes. I don't know for sure if I'll get Kooks LTs (so many options these days) but I for sure am getting that Jet Hot coating! Mind posting how much you paid for the coating?

 

It was through Maryland Speed - I think it was ~$140 or so. They have the option listed on their website.

 

Don't expect to lose anything at all anywhere with the bigger tubes, after the tune. These motors love air and they're pretty receptive to mods, as you well know. I picked up 1-2 hp and tq and that was while moving to 17x11 aftermarket ZR1 wheels, which I figure cost me 5-8hp and tq.

I LOVE your exhaust, are the tubes 2.5"? I also think your wheels may be the best looking setup for these cars, very clean.

I'll post my graphs if you're interested, since we have the same size and similar quality headers.

 

PM me a price for your old headers shipped to 85747.

 

I am a believer in the ability of uncoated stainless keeping engine bay temps down over uncoated mild steel. You don't ever see any comparisons between uncoated and uncoated stainless. Do you plan on using a temp gun?

 

Meentss02 Thank you very much for your kind words about our product. Maryland Speed is a great and very reputable dealer for our product. If we can assist you in anyway just let me know. If you are doing the install over a weekend Pm me and I will give you my cell phone number because we are not in the office on Saturdays or Sundays. We think those days should be reserved for family and racing. But if you need us i will make the time to assist you in anyway shape or form.Again thank you from the whole Kooks Crew.

 

Thank you, George, for a fantastic product. The quality and customer service Kooks offers is the reason why I went with Kooks in the first place, and why I went with them again on this upgrade (at least I hope it's an upgrade ). As long as the install goes as well as it did for the 1-3/4" version, I shouldn't have a problem, but thanks for the offer. If I do run into an issue, though, I'll be sure to get in touch with you.

I don't personally own a temp gun, but I've had access to one in the past. Maybe this would be a good test/reason to have one.

I'm not quite ready to sell them yet - I'll get around to that once I get the ones pictured installed. Sometimes that takes a while with me (I work SLOW).

The pipes coming directly off the headers are 3", and stay 3" into the x-pipe...after the x-crossover, it necks down the 2.5" and stays that way all the way to the tips. Speed Inc. fabbed that up for me nearly 4 years ago at this point - all mandrel bends and TIG welded. It is also very easy to drop the middle section for clutch/transmission swaps.

 

i put KOOKS coated hdr and y on mine last year, the coating really helps out alot, so far i can cruise around w/ac on lowest setting and be kool. i have to wipe the pipes w/wd40 ocassionaly, road grime sticks to the top of the ceramic

 

This is exactly how I do things. None of my friends do though. They just dig into the motor first.

 

Congrats on the new headers!

I want to see the after results. It will help me make a decision on the size when the time comes.

 

Those look so pretty! Stainless? I plan on getting a set and then true duals made. I was told that this was the better route to go with. (Headers-TD's)

 

Don't expect to lose power ANYWHERE... gains may be very minimal down low, but they always pick up on my dyno!

 

From what I can tell, that is correct, although I didn't do a before/after dyno comparo. They've been working very well for me since the install a couple months ago.