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ls6 intake manifold swap questions..

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Old Mar 13, 2009 | 05:46 PM
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Default ls6 intake manifold swap questions..

i know this has been beat to death but i had couple of questions that i couldn't find about the swap. i know it's probably not a major install for most you guys out there but i haven't done anything like this before, i have only took the throttle body off and had it ported but other than that i haven't touched the motor too much.. i have a few questions concerning the injectors..haven't heard to much about the injectors, whichs seems to me to be a major thing to be worryed about..

1. can i keep the stock injectors without any problems?
2. is putting the injectors in the manifold just push and pop in?
3. have there been any vacuum leak problems with dealing with the injectors?

i have been told by someone that the injectors have to be 100% sealed and that swapping intakes would be a high risk of getting a vacuum leak be not putting the injectors back in properly. how much adjusting is needed when putting the injectors in the ls6 manifold?

also have some other questions.

4. can i delete the egr but keep the air? egr seems simple to remove, but don't really want to mess with the air..
5. can i use the map sensor from my ls1 manifold on the ls6 or should i get a new sensor?
6. how do you install a new oil pressure sending unit if i accidently brake mine during the install?..like i've read about so many times

sorry for so many questions but i'm just trying to find all i can about it before i do the swap so i don't mess up my car.. thanks in advance for all of your help
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Old Mar 13, 2009 | 05:57 PM
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1) stock injectors are fine
2) yes, just push until they seat...you'll know when they do
3) usually not, the fuel rail bolts down and likely won't go down if they are not seated
4) I don't know...both are easy to remove so I did
5) yes, resuse the map
6) it has a hex head made onto it, just need a deep well socked but I don't remember what size...maybe 15 or 3/4?
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Old Mar 13, 2009 | 05:57 PM
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1. yes, 2. yes they will pop or click in place, i kept the fuel rais in jectors and fuel line all connected, 3. havent heard of many leak issues, 4. yes you can delete the egr with keeping the air. 5. keep your sensor unless it has a problem, 6. you need a real deep ops socket. i forgett the exact size.

take your time and you'll be fine.

edit: edged out...
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Old Mar 13, 2009 | 06:13 PM
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Like what they said^^... its pretty simple just watch out that oil sending unit! just put your hand back there to guide that hose over it and you should be fine. another tip, dont over torque the bolts the intake WILL crack fairly easy. The first time is always hard but the second time you do it, it'll be a piece of cake. Good Luck!
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Old Mar 13, 2009 | 06:43 PM
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Just did mine yesterday with some un-expected results.

The intake is attached by a mess of stuff that isn't mentioned in the ls1how.com instructions. After you unplug the wires to the injectors, there are still some clips attached at the BOTTOM part of the intake, 2 on each side, they just slide out, and are holding the wire loom to the intake, you will struggle with pulling it out until you realize to unclip them.

The OPSU WILL leak oil if you break it and leave it disconnected until you can find one at the parts store. you MUST wrap the treads of the new OPSU in teflon tape or it WILL leak oil.

You will slash your arms up pretty good if you don't trim the plastic nails holding the rubber seal for the hood.

If you want to make your life easier, throw down some towels and remove the fuel rail hose, that way you can pull the entire intake off with the fuel rails connected. Sure it is messy, but it makes everything much simpler.

Torque down the intake bolts in the correct sequence, a few people here just put them in without doing it in the right order and there was a vacuum leak for them.

The AIR is crazy easy to remove with the intake off. You don't need to actually remove the PUMP unless you want to save weight (i left it inside the bumper until i felt like ripping that apart to get at it), Just unscrew the 2 ends from the manifolds, pull the hose out, and disconnect it on the drivers side. There is a little spacer in there that will disconnect at an intersection... then just shove the hose inside the well, unplug the 2 power wires on the pump, and block off the holes. Just as simple as the EGR is once you actually look at it.

Try to clean up the area under the manifold... mine was CRAZY dirty and gunky... just make sure nothing gets inside the engine.

Finally... make sure you have a nice warm bed, or preferably a loved one to give you a back rub after this... your back WILL hurt.
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Old Mar 13, 2009 | 07:00 PM
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oh and be super careful not to drop any bolts in the intake ports...do not trust 2 fingers to carry any bolts anywhere near the engine and damn sure don't trust a magnet or anything like that

stupid I know but if a valve is open and something gets dropped in, you're in a big pile of fucked because u will likely get to pull the head
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Old Mar 13, 2009 | 07:35 PM
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thanks guys, hopefully i won't have to do the swap more than once, i've looked at all the hoses and there seems to be a lot more than ls1howto.com shows, but i assume i just unhook all the hoses and it should all be good.
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Old Mar 13, 2009 | 07:44 PM
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another tip that might help you out, get some clothes pins for those back bolts, they wont come all the way out when the intake is still more or less on the engine. so unless you are shiva, you arent going to have hands to hold those bolts up. youll see what i mean when you get started, but id get four clothes pins ready.

but aside from that, you seem to have everything covered, undoniong the fuel lines seems like one of the best ideas ive heard, just remember to release the pressure via the schrader valve is you decide to go that route.
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Old Mar 13, 2009 | 08:02 PM
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Originally Posted by RedRallyeZ
another tip that might help you out, get some clothes pins for those back bolts, they wont come all the way out when the intake is still more or less on the engine. so unless you are shiva, you arent going to have hands to hold those bolts up. youll see what i mean when you get started, but id get four clothes pins ready.

but aside from that, you seem to have everything covered, undoniong the fuel lines seems like one of the best ideas ive heard, just remember to release the pressure via the schrader valve is you decide to go that route.
+1 on the clothespins... tis what I used as well... and I WISH i would have thought to undo the fuel lines until after I was finished, I understand the reason why the guides say you don't need to... since you are pulling the rails out anyway.. I suppose undoing the line is an unnecessary step, but it sure as hell seemed easier when I was trying to put those stupid double-sided screw things in that hold em down... not enough room for that crap, ESPCECIALLY without a deep well socket (... try it with a normal one... way more tricky than you would think)
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Old Mar 13, 2009 | 11:32 PM
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i used rubber bands... worked like a charm
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Old Mar 14, 2009 | 11:14 PM
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some dielectric grease on the injector orings make them snap in easily.
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Old Mar 15, 2009 | 04:45 AM
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When I did my swap I broke that damn OPSU. I was pissed, did not realize it till it was back together and no oil pressure.
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Old Mar 15, 2009 | 08:27 AM
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#4) Why would you like to keep air and not egr air takes 10 min to remove!
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