Mail In Tune / Long Tubes Question
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Mail In Tune / Long Tubes Question I getting ready to install a set of long tubes on my car with a ORY. In the process I will be deleting the AIR system as well. My question is...Hawks Performance said I could send them my EMC and they would "tune it" to basicaly turn off the SES lights that will be thrown. OK...my question is if they are just turning off those codes there is really nothing changing except the lights just arent coming on...correct? SO what would the difference in that and just removing the bulb from the cluster be? Other than not have the use of the SES light at all. I know this is a half *** way to do it but I dont drive or race the car at all....it is a 100% trailered show car. If blocking or removing the SES light is basicaly the same thing and wont hurt anything else its just easier and cheaper...at least until I can get the car dyno tuned. BUT I want to be sure thats a viable route to take.
I wouldn't remove the light just in case of the possibility of future problems. Plus most mail order tuners also tune the pcm a little to accommodate the new mods. I know frost does a good job I have had two cars done by him. Some cars adjust well others run like **** after headers.
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If your car is a 100% show car, it goes without saying, you like it to look the best it can. Don't you want to be able to say the same thing about the way it performs and/or operates? Don't pull the bulb, do it the correct way. Get a tune.
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I'm pretty sure a tuner would do about the same thing; I use a Diablosport tuner. I disabled the secondary oxygen sensors from throwing a code and turning on the SES light. It isn't that the SES light itself is disabled. It is that the input of the sensor in question is removed from the ECM's "equation" to determine if the the system is in order.
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From: Fredericksburg Va
Here is a thread with his site for you to pull the cost.https://ls1tech.com/forums/sponsor-s...-may-27th.html
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His site shows you how. Very easy, Even tells you the size wrenches, with a How to picture.
http://www.tunedbyfrost.com/001.htm
http://www.tunedbyfrost.com/001.htm
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I guess my question was...if those lights are ON, will it put the car in limp home mode like the old TPI cars would do???? If not is the mail in tune JUST turning the bulbs off...in other words just making it not turn the bulb on? If so then there would be no difference in the way the car ran whether the bulb is actually burning or if its off do to a mail in tune???? Correct?
It does look THE best...and NOTHINGS been skimped on (Its featured in the current High Performance Pontiac and they said its one the best 4th Gens in the country.) But I plan to have it dyno tuned in Oct (which will be covered by GHHTP) so I am just trying to get by until then.
I guess my question was...if those lights are ON, will it put the car in limp home mode like the old TPI cars would do???? If not is the mail in tune JUST turning the bulbs off...in other words just making it not turn the bulb on? If so then there would be no difference in the way the car ran whether the bulb is actually burning or if its off do to a mail in tune???? Correct?
I guess my question was...if those lights are ON, will it put the car in limp home mode like the old TPI cars would do???? If not is the mail in tune JUST turning the bulbs off...in other words just making it not turn the bulb on? If so then there would be no difference in the way the car ran whether the bulb is actually burning or if its off do to a mail in tune???? Correct?
No, the car won't go into "limp home" (open loop) with the SES light. The rear O2 sensors simply monitor the temp of their corresponding Catalytic Convertor and won't put the car into open loop when they are removed. So you'll have the annoying light, but won't have any loss of performance.
Your second question I'll answer off of what I've read here and in HPP. A tune simply shuts off the rear O2 Sensors so the computer no longer knows that they were ever there. Not knowing equals no SES light.
If you plan to have it dyno-tuned, you could install the LT's and ORY now and deal with the light until you can get it into a shop. I know the SES light sucks, but it'd save some cash.
Or you could go with a Catted Y-pipe with O2 Bungs and that would allow you to retain your rear O2 Sensors and then you (most likely) wouldn't throw a SES code and wouldn't have the need for the mail order tune to eliminate the light. Sorry about the novel. Just trying to inform you of all your options.
Um, you don't tune the light totally out - you tune that particular error code out - nothing more. O_o
You all ~want~ a SES light on all the time? That's a good way to miss a valid code, unless you're checking at every start.
You all ~want~ a SES light on all the time? That's a good way to miss a valid code, unless you're checking at every start.
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If you know what that particular sensor or system does, then you will know exactly what to expect when you mod that parameter or bypass it altogether in your programming. In our Fbody cars the second inline O2 sensor simply lets the ecm know if the cats are operating within parameters. They do not do anything else. They don't precede changes to your fueling, timing, or anything. So precluding thier imput only prevents the ecm from turning on the SES.. nothing more. The SES light is still operational and will let you know of other dtc issues should they arise.
It is also possible to change the parameters that the ecm uses to detect issues. I.E. reducing the sensitivity of your knock sensors so that they don't pick up the coldstart rattle of forged pistons and mistake that for detonation and send a dtc for it.
I don't recommend messing with your knock sensors unless you know exactly what you are doing with your mechanical timing events. Our LS engines are designed to run right on the edge of detonation and the knock sensors are the last safety net. Reason I'm saying this is a lot of guys don't dig having thier timing ecm retarded and losing power because thier other mods are setting of the knock sensors. But the alternative is a shelled out engine.
