Fact or fiction: power loss from bad o2?
Is it really possible? And more so is it possible if no codes are being thrown and the sensors look to be cycling fine?
Anybody that has real knowledge on this please fill us in (I really would like to know because I have one bad front and back right now, lol)
I can't find anything wrong for the life of me and no one else has given me any other ideas. A friend said his race car was losing over .5 sec in the 1/8th and it turned out to be a faulty o2 sensor.
I'm becoming impatient with the car. I am quite sick of running with bolt on exhaust ls1 cars in a cammed car, especially knowing the power is there somewhere...its just hiding and rarely shows its face.
Thank you!
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the car runs WOT and shifts like ****, short shifts first gear and is too loose going into 3rd...fuel mileage seems fine though
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Last edited by Arc00TA; Jul 8, 2009 at 01:29 PM.
TECH Resident
My Garage
"If you feel you're loosing power from the O2's, unplug the front set and zip tie the wires out of the way, and drive it. It will set a DTC but it will also default to open-loop mode. If the car feels like it has the power it usually doesn't, you probably have a bad O2 or a tune issue related to closed loop..."
Thanks for the advice - I know for sure one of the front are bad...so driving without the o2's in place won't hurt the car in anyway? I don't have access to a lift or jack stands (apartment living, gotta love it) are the o2's easily accessible if I were to pull onto a curb or something?








