LS1 Engine/ 4L60E Removal
LS1 Engine/ 4L60E Removal Well, my car finally decided to break (i.e the tranny gave out) so it is time for a complete overhaul. The motor has 140,000 miles on it so it is going to be gone through as well. This thread is the start of my project and I will keep updates as I go, plus hope to get some help. So without further chatter.....lets get started!
Here is the start, up on the stands and a look at what is in the pan. When I drained the tranny fluid isntead of a nice reddish pink as I hoped for, I was greeted with a dark grey metallic (no bueno.) So finished draining the tranny fluid and it is time for further disassembly.
After draining the fluids from the tranny and removing my true duals, I disconnected the shifter linkage on the driver's side by simply popping it off with a screw driver. I then removed the 2 bolts holding the shifter linkage bracket in place, which allowed me to move it out of the way (important for removal or it will snap). I then unbolted the rear of the driveshaft from the rearend (4 bolts). Once they were removed, I could pull the driveshaft out the rear of the tranny. With the driveshaft removed, I was now able to access the rubber mount that attaches to the torque arm. This bushing is held on by 3 bolts. Remove the nuts off the bolts and push the torque arm toward the driver's side. The bushing will actual swivel apart. Remove the bushing and place it off to the side with the driveshaft. Last thing to do here is remove the 4 bolts (2 on either side) that hold the tranny crossmember in place...however since I am taking the motor out as well, I need to get it ready first!
Last edited by emiliesman; Aug 3, 2009 at 01:34 PM.
First step I did, which everyone should do, is drain all my fluids (i.e oil, antifreeze, powersteering fluid, etc.) After draining my fluids, I removed the battery, radiator and electric fans. Be sure to label all of your connectors as you remove them. I used masking tape and a sharpie....not fancy but works great. With the radiator/ fan assembly out of the way I removed the serpentine belt from the motor. Made an interesting discovery...check out the photo of my dampner (guy before me was pretty rough on the car apparently). After the belt was removed, I entered the passenger side of the car and removed the kickpanel. Inside here there is a single blue and a single white electrical connector (see pic). Disconnect those as they are attached to the ECM (which will come out with the motor). I then removed the ECM from its mount. Be careful as there is a vaccum line to the right of the computer that must be disconnected and it is easy to break. I know some guys leave the computer all plugged in however I removed my computer and just laid the wiring over the top of my motor. With the ECM out of the way, I was able to pull the two connectors from the interior of the car through the firewall and place them on the motor with the rest of the computer wiring.
After getting the wiring out of the way, I needed to disconnect the front brakes. Before I could have easy access to the brake lines, I needed to remove the steering shaft. The steering shaft is held on by two bolts, one at the top and one at the bottom. SImply remove the bolts and pull it apart (may be a little stuck so a pry bar helps). After I removed the steering shaft on the driver's side of the car, there is a silver box towards the front that all of the brake lines are attached to. Find the two labeled RF and LF and unscrew them. Running down the driver's side inner fender well is a metal heat shield held on by 4 bolts, remove the shield so you can pull the brake lines away from the body (they are going to come straight down with the rest of the k-member so you dont want to snap one of those!)
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his pictures look like hes doing it in his garage so i guess your asking me, Yep im doing it in my garage as well.
Im not sure what to expect without having a lift to use, maybe one of you guys can give me a heads up with that. lol
Im not sure what to expect without having a lift to use, maybe one of you guys can give me a heads up with that. lol
Yep, I am also doing it in my garage. I have a 38 Chevy truck project that a friend is so kindly storing for me over the winter while I tackle this. Only thing I have left is removing the tranny/k member bolts and the strut nuts/bolts however this week is gonna be crazy with training at work so hopefully get some updated pics and tips this next week!!!
I will be pulling an 02' Z28 soon, So I am watching this thread for some tips.. I have found a few other threads by searching "LS1 Removal". Two thread that I found that were very good.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...ls1-fbody.html
and
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...ne-bottom.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...ls1-fbody.html
and
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...ne-bottom.html
Not yet....project at a stale mate because my neighbor has given me a ton of part time work at his hotel doing odd and end jobs to make up some $$$ for the project so I havent had a day off in the last week. Will get more updates on Monday or Tuesday for sure!
On the floor ? I did my first drop this way in my garage n jacked up the car off the engine. Waz kinda scary but got er done.
However, I'm in the over the hill gang n my neck can't take that laying on a creeper crap anymore. I have a better way now, course had to spend $$
If you want to change your Torque arm, Go with the Spohn that mounts to the body. That way you won't have to jack with that trans mount on the side! It's a beach with a M6.... However, dunno if it will clear your duals?
Going to change cam / heads ? If so, what ya thinking of ?
Good luck!
However, I'm in the over the hill gang n my neck can't take that laying on a creeper crap anymore. I have a better way now, course had to spend $$
If you want to change your Torque arm, Go with the Spohn that mounts to the body. That way you won't have to jack with that trans mount on the side! It's a beach with a M6.... However, dunno if it will clear your duals?
Going to change cam / heads ? If so, what ya thinking of ?
Good luck!
Well, I am going with an MS3 cam and either their Stage II heads or maybe some good budget LS6 pieces. Still checking into the heads. Shortblock going to clean the bores, new bearings (mains, cam, rods, etc) and some budget forged pistons (speedpro or a good deal on some SRP's if I get lucky). Got any better suggestions?
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Joined: Aug 2009
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I did my first drop this way in my garage n jacked up the car off the engine. Waz kinda scary but got er done.
However, I'm in the over the hill gang n my neck can't take that laying on a creeper crap anymore. I have a better way now, course had to spend $$
If you want to change your Torque arm, Go with the Spohn that mounts to the body. That way you won't have to jack with that trans mount on the side! It's a beach with a M6.... However, dunno if it will clear your duals?
Going to change cam / heads ? If so, what ya thinking of ?
Good luck!
However, I'm in the over the hill gang n my neck can't take that laying on a creeper crap anymore. I have a better way now, course had to spend $$
If you want to change your Torque arm, Go with the Spohn that mounts to the body. That way you won't have to jack with that trans mount on the side! It's a beach with a M6.... However, dunno if it will clear your duals?
Going to change cam / heads ? If so, what ya thinking of ?
Good luck!
Better way I bought a used car lift.. Best $1100 I ever spent.
Hey emiliesman, Where U at there in OZ ! I'm from the Leavenworth way, but down in JAX Florida now.....
Hey emiliesman, Where U at there in OZ ! I'm from the Leavenworth way, but down in JAX Florida now.....
Last edited by davidws6; Aug 10, 2009 at 11:25 AM. Reason: .
I am in Newton, KS.....just north of Wichita. Well, I got the motor and tranny out and I did it with a cherry picker and some brute force! I will post pics and tech tonight cause my camera is charging, but it all came out and without a problem so I will prove it can be done without a lift (just woulda been alot easier with one!)