Water Temp Gauge... Using Passanger Cyl. Head
08-08-2009, 04:56 PM
#22
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That Autometer 2277 adapter is correct and will screw into the cylinder head.
The problem is your sender is too long, that autometer adapter is to be used with their sender that looks like this SENDER.
See how short it is and it has nothing extending beyond the threads?
I've heard of people just drilling the adapter out, but when you see it unmodified, it's thin to begin with. Drilling is going to make it more thin and more prone to breaking off in the cylinder head. And when you get to installing this, if you have headers, you're going to realize how much it's going to suck if it breaks off.
08-08-2009, 08:26 PM
#23
my memory isnt that bad then. looks like you know what you need to do to get it working. haha. i used my adapted and didnt trim anything and its working fine. so idk if you sender is any different then the autometer one. referring to what ^^ said.
08-09-2009, 02:06 AM
#24
Heres what problems you're going to run into.
That Autometer 2277 adapter is correct and will screw into the cylinder head.
The problem is your sender is too long, that autometer adapter is to be used with their sender that looks like this SENDER.
See how short it is and it has nothing extending beyond the threads?
I've heard of people just drilling the adapter out, but when you see it unmodified, it's thin to begin with. Drilling is going to make it more thin and more prone to breaking off in the cylinder head. And when you get to installing this, if you have headers, you're going to realize how much it's going to suck if it breaks off.
That Autometer 2277 adapter is correct and will screw into the cylinder head.
The problem is your sender is too long, that autometer adapter is to be used with their sender that looks like this SENDER.
See how short it is and it has nothing extending beyond the threads?
I've heard of people just drilling the adapter out, but when you see it unmodified, it's thin to begin with. Drilling is going to make it more thin and more prone to breaking off in the cylinder head. And when you get to installing this, if you have headers, you're going to realize how much it's going to suck if it breaks off.
So do i order the correct fitting and cut down my sender?
08-09-2009, 10:35 AM
#26
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You can find the correct steel adapter (metric pitch OD and 1/8 NPT ID) at fittingsandadapters.com; however, it is like the larger one pictured and you will have to finish drilling it thru for the long sensor to fit inside and thread into the internal 1/8-27 NPT thread. You need a "Letter R" drill, 0.339" diameter - that is the tap drill size for the 1/8 NPT. You will have to go to a "REAL" hardware store to find the letter size drills, Neither Ace or Home Depot, etc. will carry this size bit. I needed one in Crapus Christi and had to drive 40 miles across town over to an industrial supply near the refineries to find one in stock. All that for a 4 buck drill bit.
In my opinion the steel adapter is better because the wall thickness is gonna be really thin and lots of people break the brass one off in the head during installation because of the thin wall.
I believe you need a 6 MM allen wrench to remove the stock PS coolant plug, not 8.
In my opinion the steel adapter is better because the wall thickness is gonna be really thin and lots of people break the brass one off in the head during installation because of the thin wall.
I believe you need a 6 MM allen wrench to remove the stock PS coolant plug, not 8.
Last edited by Weezzer; 08-09-2009 at 10:47 AM.
08-09-2009, 10:45 AM
#27
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If you cut the sender it will ruin it.
I'd be a little upset if this was made for an LS1.
What do you do? I searched on here when I got my Autometer temp gauge and adapter, found a few people who took a steel bolt that threaded into the head and drilled/tapped for the 1/8" NPT.
I contacted Autometer and they gave me the part number for the short sensor, ironically it's labled cylinder head temp sensor. Now I don't know if the pass cylinder head coolant runs 20 degrees lower or it's actually reading cylinder head temp and not coolant temp. But my autometer temp gauge reads about 18 degrees lower than the stock one, my stock one is untouched. And that reading comes from hp tuners.
I like the idea of the long sensor tip that your kit has.
I used the short sensor with the 2277 adapter out of the box and was worried about it breaking, that plus the limited space to work in, it makes it hard to judge how tight it is.
I would look into adapting it into the TB bypass line, if you look at it the coolant in this line comes right out of the cylinder head. You'd get the average temp between the two heads. The sensor will need to be grounded if it's spliced into a rubber line.
I'd be a little upset if this was made for an LS1.
What do you do? I searched on here when I got my Autometer temp gauge and adapter, found a few people who took a steel bolt that threaded into the head and drilled/tapped for the 1/8" NPT.
I contacted Autometer and they gave me the part number for the short sensor, ironically it's labled cylinder head temp sensor. Now I don't know if the pass cylinder head coolant runs 20 degrees lower or it's actually reading cylinder head temp and not coolant temp. But my autometer temp gauge reads about 18 degrees lower than the stock one, my stock one is untouched. And that reading comes from hp tuners.
I like the idea of the long sensor tip that your kit has.
I used the short sensor with the 2277 adapter out of the box and was worried about it breaking, that plus the limited space to work in, it makes it hard to judge how tight it is.
I would look into adapting it into the TB bypass line, if you look at it the coolant in this line comes right out of the cylinder head. You'd get the average temp between the two heads. The sensor will need to be grounded if it's spliced into a rubber line.
08-09-2009, 11:01 AM
#28
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EDIT: THIS IS THE ACTUAL PLUG IN A 241 LS1 CYLINDER HEAD.
Last edited by DarkBlueLS2; 08-09-2009 at 08:29 PM.
08-09-2009, 11:15 AM
#29
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Most of the time you can use a 11/32 drill, it's only .004 bigger than a R bit.
It's a tapered thread, it'll just go in deeper with a hole thats slightly larger.
Still you can just not run the tap in so deep to avoid that.
And this is onlt if you're drilling a new hole, not modifying an adapter.
It's a tapered thread, it'll just go in deeper with a hole thats slightly larger.
Still you can just not run the tap in so deep to avoid that.
And this is onlt if you're drilling a new hole, not modifying an adapter.
08-09-2009, 12:46 PM
#31
Put the **** in your TB bypass line and go drink a cold one. 
08-09-2009, 04:23 PM
#33
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You CANNOT use the 2277 adapter for his sender!
Look at how long it is compared to the one that autometer requires to be used with that adapter. Even the standard autometer sender that comes with their gauge won't work with the 2277 adapter.
His sender is plug and play so he has to use THE ONE IN HIS KIT.
The decision now is to use the 2277 drilled out and risk breaking it off or put it in the TB bypass.
There was someone else who mentioned a location under the starter, yes people have drilled and tapped the block drain plug. Prepare for a full coolant drain if you do that. Plus where do you want to read the temp, up by the head where it matters or down by the bottom of the block?
Yes it's all coolant but the temp varies by location.
You can also drill and tap the water pump.
Look at how long it is compared to the one that autometer requires to be used with that adapter. Even the standard autometer sender that comes with their gauge won't work with the 2277 adapter.
His sender is plug and play so he has to use THE ONE IN HIS KIT.
The decision now is to use the 2277 drilled out and risk breaking it off or put it in the TB bypass.
There was someone else who mentioned a location under the starter, yes people have drilled and tapped the block drain plug. Prepare for a full coolant drain if you do that. Plus where do you want to read the temp, up by the head where it matters or down by the bottom of the block?
Yes it's all coolant but the temp varies by location.
You can also drill and tap the water pump.
08-09-2009, 04:47 PM
#34
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i have autometer full sweep an use 2277 fits good.so it dose work with autometer.not sure about his stuff but autometer yes.we use 2277 all ls motors we build that get temp gage.
08-09-2009, 04:52 PM
#35
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You CANNOT use the 2277 adapter for his sender!
Look at how long it is compared to the one that autometer requires to be used with that adapter. Even the standard autometer sender that comes with their gauge won't work with the 2277 adapter.
His sender is plug and play so he has to use THE ONE IN HIS KIT.
The decision now is to use the 2277 drilled out and risk breaking it off or put it in the TB bypass.
There was someone else who mentioned a location under the starter, yes people have drilled and tapped the block drain plug. Prepare for a full coolant drain if you do that. Plus where do you want to read the temp, up by the head where it matters or down by the bottom of the block?
Yes it's all coolant but the temp varies by location.
You can also drill and tap the water pump.
Look at how long it is compared to the one that autometer requires to be used with that adapter. Even the standard autometer sender that comes with their gauge won't work with the 2277 adapter.
His sender is plug and play so he has to use THE ONE IN HIS KIT.
The decision now is to use the 2277 drilled out and risk breaking it off or put it in the TB bypass.
There was someone else who mentioned a location under the starter, yes people have drilled and tapped the block drain plug. Prepare for a full coolant drain if you do that. Plus where do you want to read the temp, up by the head where it matters or down by the bottom of the block?
Yes it's all coolant but the temp varies by location.
You can also drill and tap the water pump.
08-09-2009, 07:11 PM
#40
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See the difference?
This HAS TO be used with the 2277 adapter.
This is a standard autometer sender that comes with all their electric temperature gauges. It will not fit in the 2277 adapter.
