MAP sensor didn't fix it.

I can now smell fuel. Thinking it is an injector.

 

You obviously dont know how these cars work. Now that thats out of my system you do understand that just because you smell fuel means nothing. You have a rough idle right you have voltage problems right. If its missing or something is affecting your idle then your going to smell fuel if its missing or overfueling due to something messing with your pcms inputs and outputs. If you have something causing you to get a messed up 5v ref then whatever it is causing that problem is most likely your culprit, whether it be a broken or chaffed wire or something else. Now you can take that advice and build on it and ask more questions Ill be more than happy to answer them. Or keep doing what your doing by throwing parts at it.

 

Again, I appreciate everyone's confidence in my lack of knowledge. The code (P1635) is indicative of the 5v ref circuit 1. This circuit includes the 5v ref for the throttle position sensor, EGR, and the MAP sensor ONLY. I recently had my TB ported and polished. So (since I recently messed with it) I changed the TPS because it was a cheap part. That did not fix the problem. AFTER CHECKING THE WIRING VERY THOROUGHLY, checking that NO bent pins were in ANY connector, and that ALL male and female harnessed had no corrosion and had been sprayed with electrical parts cleaner, I assumed the chances of the issue being in the wiring was significantly decreased considering such a going-over. Since I had my EGR deleted and TUNED OUT (these dang fancy PCMs and thier 'inputs' and 'outputs') I thought I would try replacing the MAP sensor since it is the ONLY thing left on the circuit 1. There has been at least SOME amount of knowledge behind every step I have taken. I also checked the plugs and the fuel pressure at the rail under all possible conditions and checked exactly what the fuel pressure should be at. I have also gone over the wiring diagrams in my Chilton to make sure the exact pins I should be looking at in the wiring harness in the PCM (It was so fancy I had no idea the exact number of the pins are 8, 47, 7, and 48 on the 'output' side and pins 24, 41, 55, 32, and 54 on the 'input' side). All checked out just fine. So, using my super tiny brain, I called FIC, a tuning company in Georgia, and my own personal tuned to get advice. After being referred by all three of a possible faulty injector (since pressure bleed-off varied and was infrequent) due to the possible sticking of a multi-position pin inside the injector in only one location, it seemed wise to simply order rebuilt stock injectors (which, for the 2000 LS1 is 24# injectors). Now this fuel smell that means nothing (in my unknowledgable fairy land) was indicative that, somehow, fuel was not getting burned off in the cylinder so I could either not be getting spark or such an excess of unburnt fuel that it was passing straight through the exhaust system. Now I would have probably never through to OHM the injectors first because I am so dumb, but for whatever reason I did. All the injectors Ohm'd perfect. Now after speaking to FIC, I was told by Jon, a man who works on fuel injectors for a living and a very popular sponsor of LS1tech, that I could still have a bad injector. Now since these new fandangled PCMs use this fancy thing called 'electricity,' I figured it is possible if an injector is drawing too much electricity and, in turn, dumping too much fuel, it could cause these delicate 5v reference circuits to dump slightly out of range, throwing off vital reading. But then again, I have no idea how these cars work. I'm sorry to be a total dick, but sir, do not attack my knowledge, OK? If you have advice, I really really really appreciate it, but I am very frustrated and do not need cocky input. I'm no idiot when it comes to cars and fuel injection. That is all. Sorry again.

 

Oh also the injectors came in today. Gonna try and change them out tomorrow. If not, wednesday.

 

At the end of the tree of electical problems the last step is change out the pcm. They can go bad. Unlikely but can happen. If you changed out everything out on the circuit and it still has the problem you may need a Pcm if you have anyone close you could switch it out with to see I would do that.

 

I just had to change it out. Mine old one was mega corroded. But it still runs, so I have almost ruled that out, but you're right, it is still possible.

 

Good luck buddy Iam watch this tread and pull for ya. Do you happen to have a wire diagram of the circuit you could post up?

 

Yeah! It is about a 40MB file though so I am reuploading it ATM, so I will post when it finishes. Here is the one of the 5v ref circuit 1 though. Thanks for the support

http://www.gearchatter.com/si/582390.png

EDIT: Full diagram available at http://rapidshare.com/files/289220007/Diagram.zip.html

 

I had a friend that had a similar issue. I was told by a tuner to tap the mass air meter while the car was running and if it started to die then the maf was bad. Funning thing was it work, I dident belive at all we started the car and tap on the top of the maf it stumbled and died, we did it three times too.

 

Ok with the egr what did you do to the connections after you removed it and tunned it out? Its worth a shot looking at them as they could still mess with it if they ground somewhere. I dought it is it but worth a shot

 

It just dangles, but touches nothing. I checked that first! Haha

 

Iam still waiting on the whole circuit to download at only 50% lol slow internet i guess. I hope after seeing the whole one i can help more.

 

After doing a throttle relearn, I decided to go over my vacuum system. I noticed after I removed my AIR system, I left some part on the right side of the fuel rail that had two vacuum hoses plugged into one undone. Well I left one vacuum hose undone (removed with AIR pump). Capped that, did the relearn, went over the vacuum system again and it runs brilliantly... Weirdest thing ever. All codes are gone and idle is DEAD perfect.

 

Very well stated kdick. Now on to the help part you did state that you tested the injectors and they did not bleed down correct, you stated in the thorough explanation of how well you understand these cars that you got inconsistent pressure bleed off. Sir inconsistent information does not help in online diag. If you were getting inconsistent readings then yes the injectors could be suspected. A simple way to check the injectors would be use a mechanics stethoscope and listen to the injectors and see if they sound similar to one another, that would let you know that the 'multi position pin' know as a pintle was not operating correctly. That may be something to do with your p0200 but I still dont think with my tiny little UTI and Ford Electrical and Electronics training and several years as a driveability tech, that it is going to have an effect on something that is not even on the same circuit as the problem you are receiving the p1635 per the information you provided is correct, not questioning your ability but I have seen flaws on manuals and wiring diagrams before. Hope your injectors fix you up best of luck keep us posted.

 

Congrats on finding the culprit. Seems weird that a vacuum line will affect a wiring issue though.

 

Well only once did it bleed to zero, but all other times it was just low (below 30PSI). But yeah after doing that throttle relearn, it is running a load better and I went over my vacuum system and just by unplugging, checking for dry-rot, and so-on I think it fixed a minor leak somewhere. Idle came way down (about 500RPM), but she still wants to surge a bit. All codes magically disappeared. I'm thinking the TPS was the culprit, but the injectors were cheap and under warranty so I will be replacing those soon. Lol, good to know there are knowledgable people here. Sorry to snap, but I'm sure with all your experience, you know how frustrating these things get. I appreciate the input!! Thanks!

 

Fired perfect and idled perfect again this morning. I guess she is fixed! I swear, I have had less moody girlfriends. ANY time of the month...

 

Awesome, the problem is back again. It took several cranks to start and idles horrid. Surges from 600RPM to 1200RPM and eventually idles close to 1000RPM. It threw the codes P0102, P0200, and P1635. It is like it has a BAD vacuum leak. Reset the codes and restarted the car. It will only throw codes when cold. If you have any advice, you have NO idea how much I would appreciate it.

 

Lol figured you would be back in a day or so to say that hard to believe that a vacuum problem will cause an electrical issue. Whats your p0102 description? Do you have access to a live data scanner?

 

Well it was a vacuum leak and resetting the TPS... So more than just that. But no access to a data scanner. :/